My wife was listening to the video as I played it. Says it sounds like her Singer sewing machine. I said yeah, but do you hear the whine of that turbocharger?
- Straight Eight Engine Specifications
- Straight Eight Casting Numbers
- Buick F-263 Head/Gasket Swaps, effects on compression
- 263 Head X-Sections
- Straight Eight Intake Manifold X-Sections
- 263, 2X2 Engine Mount Modification
- Compound Carburetion
- Buick Compound Carburetion
- Buick Fuel and Vacuum Pump
- Straight 8 speed secrets of Don Montgomery
- Looking to get rid of the torque tube 50 sedanette
- T5 Install on the '50 263
- Straight 8 sets two new Bonneville Records
- Building a High Performance Straight Eight
- Buick Straight Eight Lifter Adjustment
- Straight Eight Oil Supply Update
- Dual Points in a Buick Straight 8 Distributor
Anything new from the straight 8 hot rodders?
- Thread starter chevy6694
- Start date
My wife was listening to the video as I played it. Says it sounds like her Singer sewing machine. I said yeah, but do you hear the whine of that turbocharger?
Straight 8
Here's another video of the straight 8 getting ready for the Salt. The current setup is estimated to be about 600+ HP at the wheels. Sounds pretty good. Leaving for the Salt tomorrow morning. You should be able to follow our progress on Facebook Salt Cat Racing. Enjoy!:jeez:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQrduPZ1xfI
Here's another video of the straight 8 getting ready for the Salt. The current setup is estimated to be about 600+ HP at the wheels. Sounds pretty good. Leaving for the Salt tomorrow morning. You should be able to follow our progress on Facebook Salt Cat Racing. Enjoy!:jeez:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQrduPZ1xfI
What kind of water pump are you using?
Advance curves for a street machine
I need help! My engine is a '49 block with 3/4 cam by Elgin, 9 to 1 pistons by Ross, three carb manifold, headers, polished ports and combustion chamber, balanced, etc. The engine is installed in a 1940 Series 80 limited sedan. I plan to order a custom distributor from from Performance Distributors. They will tailor the advance curves to any specs I call for. The stock unit I have I know is tired and will be replaced. If I set the timing to stock specs, it is smooth at lower rpm and load and pings like mad under higher load and RPM. If I retard it to get rid of the ping, then it runs very rough at lower rpm. I am running with the vacuum advance installed and hooked up. It appears to me that the stock advance curve is just too aggressive for that compression ratio. I wonder if I need less machanical advance and somewhat greater vacuum advance.
What would you suggest as:
1. Initial Set point
2. Machanical advance curve
3 Vacuum advance curve
This is not to be a racing engine (can you imagine a black limo at the drags?) But I just wanted to have a good running engine with good power over a reasonable range and hopefully some decent mileage. Hope you can help me.
Regards,
Earle
I need help! My engine is a '49 block with 3/4 cam by Elgin, 9 to 1 pistons by Ross, three carb manifold, headers, polished ports and combustion chamber, balanced, etc. The engine is installed in a 1940 Series 80 limited sedan. I plan to order a custom distributor from from Performance Distributors. They will tailor the advance curves to any specs I call for. The stock unit I have I know is tired and will be replaced. If I set the timing to stock specs, it is smooth at lower rpm and load and pings like mad under higher load and RPM. If I retard it to get rid of the ping, then it runs very rough at lower rpm. I am running with the vacuum advance installed and hooked up. It appears to me that the stock advance curve is just too aggressive for that compression ratio. I wonder if I need less machanical advance and somewhat greater vacuum advance.
What would you suggest as:
1. Initial Set point
2. Machanical advance curve
3 Vacuum advance curve
This is not to be a racing engine (can you imagine a black limo at the drags?) But I just wanted to have a good running engine with good power over a reasonable range and hopefully some decent mileage. Hope you can help me.
Regards,
Earle
telekenfun
Member
You seem to have the right thinking about your timing. Make sure that the vacuum advance mechanism is working properly. Also check your vacuum at idle. The stock advance goes to full advance (10 degrees) with only 13 inches of vacuum, so if you're getting 18-20 inches at idle you won't start losing advance until your further into your throttle. Also the stock distributor starts its centrifugal advance at about 350 rpm and its full 12-13 degrees is all in by 2000 rpm. None of this sound right with the mods you've made. Get a Mallory variable vacuum canister that adjusts with an allen wrench through the vacuum port. Take your distributor to a distributor machine where you can see when the centrifical begins and when it is all in rpm wise. I'm sure it needs modifying as well. Mallory has kits for that also. In the old days the hot rodders would trim the bob weights and add bob weight stops to adjust distributor timing ala California Bill Fishers book. Good Luck and best regards, KB.
with a Buick straight 8 you may have to custom adjust your distributor. That means you will need to go out and test run your ignition advance settings to your engine. It is a drawn out process but it can be done. There is a soft back manual on tuning that can be used to custom tune a distributor and a lot of pretty good performance tips. Its available at any good book store or the web. Its about chevy engines but the procedure is the same for most distributors , especially good if you adapt a Chevy HEI to your Buick, which is possible. Ignition timing is worth a lot of HP and is the heart of your engine.
check it out ----- 'how to build max performance Chevy engines' by David Vizard
ok I found another articlae about ignition timing that basically explains what is needed.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/distributor-tuning-theory-part-1-a-59033.html
check it out ----- 'how to build max performance Chevy engines' by David Vizard
ok I found another articlae about ignition timing that basically explains what is needed.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/distributor-tuning-theory-part-1-a-59033.html
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Buick I8's
Hi Peter C here.
Interesting about adapting a Chev Eletronic dissy to the Buick I8.
I cannot remember many details but I seem to recollect an English firm claiming no matter WHAT the motor they could supply an eletronic distributor conversion for it.
Does any-one else remember this firm???.
Back later Peter.
Hi Peter C here.
Interesting about adapting a Chev Eletronic dissy to the Buick I8.
I cannot remember many details but I seem to recollect an English firm claiming no matter WHAT the motor they could supply an eletronic distributor conversion for it.
Does any-one else remember this firm???.
Back later Peter.
Straight 8 electronic ignition
Hummm yes the I8 motors dont share much with (ANYTHING) with other engines.
I am racking my brains trying to remember the name of the English ignition firm who claimed to be able to adapt ANY distributor to electronic.
This would certainly solve all our problems.
Also (and I have no idea if this could be applied to I8 motors) I remember a few years ago in English Enthusiast Magazines (think Land Rover International was one of them) an English eletronic expert marketing under "open licence" distributerless computer controlled ignition systems for 4 \ 6 \ 8 cylinder engines.
Seems I shall have to give my memory a comprehensive working over dont it???.
Back later Peter C.
Hummm yes the I8 motors dont share much with (ANYTHING) with other engines.
I am racking my brains trying to remember the name of the English ignition firm who claimed to be able to adapt ANY distributor to electronic.
This would certainly solve all our problems.
Also (and I have no idea if this could be applied to I8 motors) I remember a few years ago in English Enthusiast Magazines (think Land Rover International was one of them) an English eletronic expert marketing under "open licence" distributerless computer controlled ignition systems for 4 \ 6 \ 8 cylinder engines.
Seems I shall have to give my memory a comprehensive working over dont it???.
Back later Peter C.
Eletronic ignitions buick i8
THANX SALTRACER for the link, I just checked them out and their list of avaliable systems is COMPREHENSIVE to sat the least.
The English firm I was thinking of is www.distributorless.com however they don't seem to offer systems for the less common motors.
So I shall investigate your link further.
Back later Peter C.
THANX SALTRACER for the link, I just checked them out and their list of avaliable systems is COMPREHENSIVE to sat the least.
The English firm I was thinking of is www.distributorless.com however they don't seem to offer systems for the less common motors.
So I shall investigate your link further.
Back later Peter C.
tom walker
Newbie
dizzies
Hi guys, talking sparks, anyone who runs an old motor may have problems with their old dizzy. If you cant get the parts ie caps or points, then you ve got trouble. I recently had a nightmare with my original DR unit on a 1950 Cad 331 v8. Everything on it was worn. It was a simple job to get a nearly new SB Ford Mallory distributor off ebay and turn the body down to fit the Cad. I had to shorten the shaft as well, but it was no real work, and now I have a well made distributor with good spares supply. I'm sure it would work with the Buick.
Direction of rotation is no problem as there are both commonly available, you just need to make sure the unit you buy has more meat on it than the one youre replacing, so everything is turned down to size on the lathe. Obviously firing order is nt a problem, just connect the leads up right !
Cheers, Tom.
Hi guys, talking sparks, anyone who runs an old motor may have problems with their old dizzy. If you cant get the parts ie caps or points, then you ve got trouble. I recently had a nightmare with my original DR unit on a 1950 Cad 331 v8. Everything on it was worn. It was a simple job to get a nearly new SB Ford Mallory distributor off ebay and turn the body down to fit the Cad. I had to shorten the shaft as well, but it was no real work, and now I have a well made distributor with good spares supply. I'm sure it would work with the Buick.
Direction of rotation is no problem as there are both commonly available, you just need to make sure the unit you buy has more meat on it than the one youre replacing, so everything is turned down to size on the lathe. Obviously firing order is nt a problem, just connect the leads up right !
Cheers, Tom.
just got here
I'm new to the whole forum thing, but after reading through this thread, I am excited. I have a 263 with dynaflow that I have not disassembled yet. My reticence came from inexperience, but lately it is simply a lack of time. I am heartened by the wealth of information here. I simply want to build a mild running engine for a street roadster. Would like to use the dynaflow but have no idea if the rear of the trans can be closed to accept a driveshaft yoke. It looks like I can make a "can" to bolt on where the torque tube used to be with a seal in the back. Any ideas or problems I have no clue about?
I'm new to the whole forum thing, but after reading through this thread, I am excited. I have a 263 with dynaflow that I have not disassembled yet. My reticence came from inexperience, but lately it is simply a lack of time. I am heartened by the wealth of information here. I simply want to build a mild running engine for a street roadster. Would like to use the dynaflow but have no idea if the rear of the trans can be closed to accept a driveshaft yoke. It looks like I can make a "can" to bolt on where the torque tube used to be with a seal in the back. Any ideas or problems I have no clue about?
Hi Zoomdog I doubt there are any hidden \ suprise issues maybe you should consider using a TurboHydo 400 out of a Chev but the old Dynaflow certainly has appeal.
What sort of roadster are you building a traditionl hot rod \ M.G or simlar with Straight 8 or a scratch built???.
Have you ever read the Bonner the Outrider Series???, they were popular 25 or so years ago and speaking from memory Bonners machine was a tube framed one of powered by a big Straight 8.
I cannot remember if the motor was a Buick though I'm wanting to say a Lycombing Straight 8 for some reason???.
Anyway as you browze the forum and Team Buick in genral you'll discover a wealth of knowlegde to assist you.
Back soon Peter.
What sort of roadster are you building a traditionl hot rod \ M.G or simlar with Straight 8 or a scratch built???.
Have you ever read the Bonner the Outrider Series???, they were popular 25 or so years ago and speaking from memory Bonners machine was a tube framed one of powered by a big Straight 8.
I cannot remember if the motor was a Buick though I'm wanting to say a Lycombing Straight 8 for some reason???.
Anyway as you browze the forum and Team Buick in genral you'll discover a wealth of knowlegde to assist you.
Back soon Peter.
Buick and LYCOMING Straight 8's
Hey Zoomdog and everyone else I'm back I remembered a thread to the Outrider books www.survivalplus.com
ANYWAY the point being the car used by the main character is a tube chassied special powered by a Straight 8 Lycoming ex Power Boat Engine, yah NOT a Buick 8.
BUT consider using our favourite inline 8 it'd be possibile to build a replica that might be bizzare but still road legal.
Anyway just a wierd thought be back later Peter.
Hey Zoomdog and everyone else I'm back I remembered a thread to the Outrider books www.survivalplus.com
ANYWAY the point being the car used by the main character is a tube chassied special powered by a Straight 8 Lycoming ex Power Boat Engine, yah NOT a Buick 8.
BUT consider using our favourite inline 8 it'd be possibile to build a replica that might be bizzare but still road legal.
Anyway just a wierd thought be back later Peter.