Outlets of waterpump

Duco55

Active Member
Hi all,
I am building my 263 block into the chassis. On the waterpump are 3 outlets. From my notes, Photos and Books i can not figure out the exact function. I am pretty sure the top two are for the heating, and can be blanked off.
but what is the function of the lower and longer one? And what is the function of the 3 way pipe?
thanks in advance
duco55
netherlands
 
Without seeing your particular pump, I couldn't say for sure, but some Buick pumps have extra connections for lines that go to the Dynaflow oil cooler. If you have a manual transmission, those connections wouldn't be used.

Ray
 
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Thanks Ray, That is probably it. This engine used to have a dynaflow. I replaced it with a manual box ( jag XK). So this probably means that I can blank off this outlet as well. Unless there are other opinions? Met vriendelijke dank, Duco
 
There is one in tread on headers, one page down. Will make soms more and post this weekend,
herzlichen grussen
 
This engine used to have a dynaflow. I replaced it with a manual box ( jag XK). So this probably means that I can blank off this outlet as well. Unless there are other opinions? Met vriendelijke dank, Duco
On mine, I connected the nipples together with a piece of hose. I'm not saying that this is the correct way to do it, but it just seemed easier at the time. Blocking them off would probably look better, though.

The Jag gearbox sounds like a great idea. Would you mind describing how you adapted it to the engine? Do you have any pics of the adaptor?

Ray
 
Hey Duco,
Yes, like Ray said,let us see your (whole ) Project ... where in Holland you come from ? I'm from Bremen, the nearest bigger Hollandtown is Groningen ..
 
Will make some extra photo's today and post a small collection. I am in Zutphen, some 30 km north of Arnhem. nearest german town is Bocholt. Re the box to engine connection: I first made an adaption plat, but did not trust my own work re line up accuracy. So asked a specialist firm. Told them I had to adapt the axle form the box afterwards to get enough of the splines in the clutch plate. This made them think and afterwards we decided to make a whole new clutch hous out of aluminium. Took them a year ( between jobs) and me lot of money. But I now have a nice set up.The photo's will show that the whole car is a mult year project. I am building the whole thing from scratch, and to my own design with Bentley and lagonda 1930's as basic idea. Lots of fun, trying to master different old techniques. met vriendelijke groeten DucosDSCF1597.jpgDSCF1942.jpgDSCF2034.jpgDSCF2036.jpgDSCF1268.jpgDSCF3942.jpgDSCF3948.jpg
 
Again, is it me or the site. I seem to get logged out even if I am looged in. Making the previoues reply took 7 times logging in again.also the editor works a bit strange. I cannot get to a new line??Is it me ( getting old) or?Duco
 
Ray btw found bolts for blanking off the 3 outlets of the waterpump. This thread is used here for Gas.regards duco
 
Wow! That bellhousing looks like it was machined from billet aluminum. Interesting combo with the Jag 4 speed.
 
admin help ? and question on dynamo belt

Is there an admin that can help me? I can not open my own pictures as if I am not logged in. But I am. Also anwering does not work straight away. And my editor does not work normally. Is there a set up wrong or? New qiuestion. The new belt around pump, and dynamo seems to be very tight and aqlso a bit wide. It will run against the ventilation parts of the dynamo pulley. Is that normal?The old one ( not usable anymore) is much smaller in diam wilst a bit longer. Did I get a wrong one or is the replacement market only having these ones?
 
Yea,nice Procect,Racer,Hot Rod or what it shoud be ?? You are 280 km away . You are Drive next Weekend to Bockhorn ?,many Netherlandguys are there, I come with my Buick and stay on the Campground.

OK,back to the Topic .. :D
Which wide have your Belt ? I drive a 17mm ,but have all the Pulleys from my 248 Engines on it .
You drive the Generator or a modern Alternator ? I f it to near maybe the inlining isn't correct ? I drive a Bosch Alternator and the Pulley self is a two piece Part for 1o mm or with Washers betweeen it for 13 or 17 mm Belts.
I can also use Waschers between the Pulley and the Rotor for the correct Gap between it .
Maybe you can try also to take Washers/Shims between it ?

Bob .K.Mando is the Admin.
I have also Problems with the Edit,sended/track Massages and some Things more, Pics I also can only open if I'm locked in. (thats OK I find ) and some things more.

You are not alone :waving:
 
Hoi Jenz, No special idea with the project. I found building a nice hobby when I restored my Jag xk120FHC. I find Bentley the ultimate but unaffordable, so I started making my own car. Everything is heavy and solid. Rear axle is jag MK9 , very wide. chassis is extended Jeep M38a1, engine buick. The rest I made myself, radiator, body, dash, steering, fenders, front axle, gasoline tank etc.The wheel are specially build in Wales and 21 inch with Blockley tyres. everything powder coated, I am not planning to anywhere. I am probably in France next week. What kindof show/fair is this? Should I try to go? met hartelijke groeten , Duco
 
Sorry, forgot to answer the question. The new belt is 16mm, but the old one is only 10. The new one also sit very high. Probably thats why I found it so hard to get it on. Currently I use the orignal genearator. I will prbably have to change but I do not like the looks of a modern altenator. BTW the 6 volt system stays in place. Problem with building all my self is that I have to design a electriacal diagram and build tha wire loom. I have had my design cehcked, but am still uncertauin about some parts. all wires around the starter. for instance. BTW today is probably the first real nice day here in Holland. Will probably make a small tour on bicycle. cheers
 
Jenz, looked at the site for the fair. Looks nice, BUt a bit to far. I know that region a bit. I lived near Groningen and spend a yera in the dutch army in Zeven, between Bremen and Hamburg. Long time ago, though. In the seventies. Have anice weekend, Duco
 
The new belt is 16mm, but the old one is only 10. The new one also sit very high. Probably thats why I found it so hard to get it on.

The belt should fit approximately even with the top of the pulley groove, so it seems like you definitely have the wrong width belt. A 10mm wide belt was used on the last few years of straight 8 production. Earlier engines had 16mm. I don't know the exact year the width was changed, but it probably wasn't before about 1950. My 1952 belt is 10mm.

You should be able to get a suitable belt from a local parts store if you tell them the top width and outside circumference you need. That should work better than trying to order it by application.

Btw, your bellhousing is an absolute work of art. I have never seen anything like it before, even on a show car.

Ray
 
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Jenz, looked at the site for the fair. Looks nice, BUt a bit to far. I know that region a bit. I lived near Groningen and spend a yera in the dutch army in Zeven, between Bremen and Hamburg. Long time ago, though. In the seventies. Have anice weekend, Duco

Thanks and keep us posted with your interesting Project
 
ansewer and other question on temp sensor threads

OK, will keep you posted. Am I allowed to ask new question? Or do I need to start new tread? Ever so: Does some body know the tread of the water temp sensor in the block. My new one has a special sleeve but does not fit. Also the sump has 2 outlets. Is one of them for the oil temp sensor? The block is a 263 from 1953. ( or 1952. so a late one) This also answers Ray. Asthe engine is late, de belt I got is for an older type. I will try and find a smaller one locally. This one sits really above the groove. Thanks Ray. Another: Is the small iron pipe for vacuum between distributor and carburetor for sale anywhere Or do I need to build one myself ( it seems to have 5/16unf connectors a approx 3 feet long)? met vriendelijke groeten Duco
 
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