1953 263 One headbolt is stuck

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outbdnut

Member
After doing a compression check on a 1953 263 engine I bought, (Compression was good - 100 to 125 pounds), I want to pull the head to be sure there is nothing bad going on inside, like pinhole coolant leaks, etc. I've pulled a lot of heads off various engines over the years and never found a headbolt I couldn't budge.....until now! All bolts came loose with a nudge from a breaker bar except one. It's the bolt in the center of the head on the manifold side. I have a good quality air impact wrench, and 6 point impact sockets, and that, with 125 pounds of air would not break it loose either - I tried jogging it in both directions and it will not budge. I also tried hitting the breaker bar with a heavy hammer.

If I put a big piece of iron pipe on the handle of the breaker bar, will I risk twisting the headbolt into two pieces?

Has anyone else had this problem? I need suggestions on ways to get it loose. My only torch is a propane torch, but heating the side of the block with a hotter torch to break it loose doesn't sound like a good idea. There is no way to get penetrating oil to the threads.

Help!
Dave
 
For better or worse, I would probably push it til it breaks:(
Then remove the head look at what is left of the bolt, heat the bolt with an oxy acetylene torch until it is as hot as I could get it, then screw it out. If it is broken off close to flush with the block, weld a nut on it.
 
Today I tried the air-impact wrench many times without it budging - both forward and reverse, as I fixed a couple old outboard motors (another hobby), and, just before calling it a day, THE STUCK BOLT STARTED TO TURN! Yippee! I added some penetrating oil to the shaft after it came up a couple of turns and got it out! The shank was rusty, so I'm thinking there may have been a head-gasket coolant leak over to that bolt. I didn't lift the head off yet because I wanted to end the day on a high note and mosquitos were coming out. Hopefully there is no leak corroding any cylinders when I pull the head tomorrow.

Next after lifting off the head, will be to check bearing clearances.

Dave
 
suntreemcanic said:
My old shop manual says it takes two good men to lift a straight eight head off the engine.
Click to expand...


I agree with that statement if the engine is in the car. With the engine setting on my garage floor, I grabbed a stud sticking out near the rear and a bolt I put in up front and, with work gloves on, I lifted it right off with no difficulty. The motor I'm replacing, I pulled the head with it in the car. I could not get a good angle on it to lift it off ("two good men" could have done it), so I used my engine cherry picker.

On the replacement engine, once off, I was pleased to find no problems with the head, valves, or cylinders. Measuring, I found it has not been re-bored and there is a barely feelable ridge at the top. I was told it had low miles on it, but wasn't able to get a number. That appears to be true. I will pull the pistons out and inspect the rings as long as I've got the head off. I don't have a ridge reamer, but the ridges are so small, I think I can remove them carefully with a hone.
Dave
 
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