52 263 Head Remove/Reinstall

IF that is the original short stud it should not be into the sensor. Try the two nuts again, perhaps with a lock washer between. The studs are available if they do give way. Or, go back with a shorter BOLT. Although, I think fine threads are probably stronger than coarse. When the stud is out, if the sensor bulb still resist, try a little vinegar down the bolt hole.

Ben
 
It's a common stud, coarse thread into the head, fine threads up top. If I can get it to turn at all, it should come out. Unless the rusty crusty water jacket corrosion has done a number on the threads.

I'll add some lock-tite red and try again. Really trying not to twist anything off. Don't want to add more work. REALLY don't want to screw up the temp sender.
 
Well, darn.

First, the good news: The red Locktite did the trick, the stud unthreaded just fine. Was a little hassle to get the nuts OFF, but a judicious application of heat and everything worked out. Then, sloshed some white vinegar down the hole, pulled on the tube (fairly gently) to get some breathing room to squirt some vinegar in the front of the bulb...and the darned capillary tube just popped right off in my hand. 😞

Shoot. Well, in theory I can add a new bulb to this gauge, just need a donor and some appropriate brass or copper sleeving. Not ideal, but better than nothing.

But now that it's *broken*, I should be able to grab ahold of the nipple on the bulb and really pull. Well, I can try... doesn't seem to do a darned thing. Can't pull straight out, can't twist, it's really in there.

So it's broken, it's stuck... it's just doing its best to peeve me, I tell you!

Wondering: How overly aggressive would CLR be if the vinegar won't do it? And otherwise I'll keep trying penetrating oil, acetone and ATF, homeopathic essential oils... whatever I can think of. And hey, I guess now I can use heat, too. Can't hurt anything now. 🙄
 
322bnh said:
HERE Get the proper tool to remove the stud
Click to expand...
this
bittmann said:
Well, darn.

First, the good news: The red Locktite did the trick, the stud unthreaded just fine. Was a little hassle to get the nuts OFF, but a judicious application of heat and everything worked out. Then, sloshed some white vinegar down the hole, pulled on the tube (fairly gently) to get some breathing room to squirt some vinegar in the front of the bulb...and the darned capillary tube just popped right off in my hand. 😞

Shoot. Well, in theory I can add a new bulb to this gauge, just need a donor and some appropriate brass or copper sleeving. Not ideal, but better than nothing.

But now that it's *broken*, I should be able to grab ahold of the nipple on the bulb and really pull. Well, I can try... doesn't seem to do a darned thing. Can't pull straight out, can't twist, it's really in there.

So it's broken, it's stuck... it's just doing its best to peeve me, I tell you!

Wondering: How overly aggressive would CLR be if the vinegar won't do it? And otherwise I'll keep trying penetrating oil, acetone and ATF, homeopathic essential oils... whatever I can think of. And hey, I guess now I can use heat, too. Can't hurt anything now. 🙄
Click to expand...
that tool that 322bnh suggested works but you need enough there to grab. When that tool rotates it locks on to the broken part, so if it is too short won't lock on.

CLR is for mild surface treatment of rust. You should go stronger with Phosphoric Acid it comes in Jelly and liquid form. The jelly is stronger, the liquid you can immerse parts in it. You have to periodically "Rembrandt," the stuff around and wait for it to do the work.
 
I've been soaking the temp sender bulb, penetrating oil, vinegar, CLR, phosphoric acid...darned thing is still stuck. I'm afraid I'm going to have to just give up and start getting medieval on it. Thread in a screw? Peel it apart with a punch? Dunno. It's just not cooperating. I'll get it out, but I'm not going to enjoy it.

Meantime, I've determined that 1 pushrod has been lightly "tweaked". It's not bent a *lot*, but it is definitely no longer straight. Anyone have a decent suggested source for a (1952-hydraulic-lifter-compatible) 263 Dynaflow pushrod? I have found one online vendor so far, seems a bit high but not unreasonable at $20 each, plus shipping...I guess, if there's nothing better, that's not completely out of the realm. Any other options? I don't see any used parts on fleabay...anyone here have any used parts they'd like to liquidate?
 
Dremel is one of my favorite go to tools. You can use carbide bit or stone as well a fiber disk.
You should wait till the end, if there is any engine work, all the pushrods may not be correct. You would place the cylinder at cylinder overlap, check that pushrods are not keeping valve open or too loose of play. Get the pushrods as needed according to this discovery. This subject is under engine blueprinting build.
If you go to the Restoration section there is list of sources for parts u are looking for.
 
Even with the parts source listing, I'm having a heck of a time finding replacement pushrods for a 1952 Dynaflow Special (so hydraulic lifters).

Closest I've found so far is listed for a 1950 Special Dynaflow. No idea if those are the same part, but I'm suspecting not because they are listed specifically for the '49 Super and '50 Special. Anyone know any different?

Anyone know of any other places one could order '52 263 hydraulic pushrods?
 
They are different. According to my '68 parts book, the '50-52 series 50 uses 1393911. 1393911 is also used in the '51-53 series 40, A.T.
You could have them custom made by someone like Smith Bros., CLICK HERE.
They are easily enough shortened (If you find a set of solid lifter push rods, they are longer) if you build a tool to pull the ends:
 
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The 1949 Super and Special, and the 1950 Special are still the 248 ci engine. ALL small series afterwards used the 263, which is a tad shorter, top to bottom, than the 248. If using hydraulic lifters, be SURE the pushrods used will pass oil all the way through. I am remembering something about the last series 248 pushrod top "cup" not having a hole to allow oil through.

Ben
 
Thanks, Bob and Ben!

Bob, that part number is very helpful. So far, I've found one online supplier that carries that part. The part's cost is a little higher (which is ok, these are odball push rods for sure!). Unfortunately, when ordering online, the shipping is almost as much as the part itself. 😞

Still, an expensive option is better than no option!

I'll think about building a custom set (e.g. re-tubing what I have) if nothing else is available. So far I just have the one I need to deal with, so ... Hopefully I can order one, and that's all the further she goes.

Ben, I'll make sure whatever I do is all hydraulic-oriented. The top-end oiling of these engines is "interesting" compared to what I'm used to. Lots going on.
 
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bittmann said:
Thanks, Bob and Ben!



Ben, I'll make sure whatever I do is all hydraulic-oriented. The top-end oiling of these engines is "interesting" compared to what I'm used to. Lots going on.
Click to expand...

Sure not like V8s. The oil line fitting, coming out of the head under the rocker arm/valve cover, at the front right of the head is REDUCED to about .060. This to reduce the amount of oil to the overhead. The lifters are gravity fed. When I built my 263, the performance shop that did the head used heavier valve springs as they would for a SBC. The lifters would not stay pumped up. We had to remove a washer from under the inner spring to get the pressure back near original .

Good luck

Ben
 
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