430 Distributor

P

Pinky1492

Member
Hows it going guys, I'm new to this forum. I have a 1967 Buick Riviera with a 430 Big Block in it that wont start. I've done all of my maintenance and fixed my wiring that I found out of whack and spliced since I bought it from someone that had it sitting in a field, found that someone had messed with the wiring. Changed almost everything to ignition system, installed new battery and after a few other repairs I got the car to at least crank but still not getting any spark from my my spark plugs (which are brand new and gapped). Only thing I havent changed out is my distributor. Havent been able to find anyone that sells them brand new, only remanufactured which isnt an issue, but dont want to buy a new distributor if it doesnt need it. Just want to make sure I've checked all possible issues for the engine to not start. Any advice on where I should check before buying a distributor that might not even be necessary? Or any tests to check if my distributor is still good or faulty?

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Welcome.
With the key in the run position check for voltage on the positive side of the coil. If it's not there you'll have to trace out the circuit to find the problem. Ignition switch on the dash could be bad. Coil could be bad. Did you replace the condenser, points and gap them?
Check the reference section of the forum. The entire 67 factory shop manual is on there and it can be a huge help tracing out the wiring.
 
Thanks I'll definitely check that. Yes I did, I changed everything on top of the distributor and the condenser. I'm having some trouble finding the 67 shop manual though. Cant find the reference section

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The bar at the top just below team Buick toward the middle of the page click the reference tab.
Click on the 67 box. When the page opens it's to the left under the Electra nose.
Look over the whole 67 page when you get a chance tons of great info.
 
Thank you. I had to use the Full Site online, that's why I was having an issue finding it. I have the cell phone app on my phone which is how I am on this forum. But now I know I'll need to see it through the desktop verson

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There are a number of ways to no spark with points. None of the leads can contact the base plate as that is ground. You must also set the point gap as new points are not preset. Get the rubbing block up on one of the cam points. Close the adjustment until the points just close, then back 1/2 turn. That should start the engine. Finish the adjustment with a dwell meter.
 
just for trouble shooting, you can plop in a 1974-76 HEI distributor from a Buick 455ci
OR
you can use an HEI from a 1974-81 Buick 350ci, with the caveat that you have to swap the gear at the bottom of the shaft.
 
First checks most people do in the field is spark test at the plug wire lead, hold it about 1/4" away from anything on the engine and see if you have a spark that jumps to ground. If not, you can move to either the coil and do the same test with the coil lead. If that fails to spark, move to the points, is there a spark there.

No spark there, as mentioned previously, check voltage to the coil with an ohm meter. It should be checked with the key on and again in the start position. In the start position it should have a full 12v, in the run, it should have a reduced voltage. If no power, stop and repair! If there was power, with an ohm meter check for continuity between the negative of the coil and the points. All in order there, and no spark at the points, change the condenser/capacitor.

If there was spark at the points all along and no spark at the coil lead and 12v to the coil, change the coil.
If there was spark at the points, and spark at the coil, but none or intermittent at the plug wires look at the cap or rotor for cracks or carbon tracking. Clean or replace the cap and rotor.

When checking the secondary system, you can also have a bad coil to cap wire.
 
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Ok so I'm stuck again, I've tried looking through the shop manuals and still cant find where to go from here. I'm not getting any voltage to my coil positive wire, I've traced it back to the regulator and I'm getting voltage at my hot lead to the starter but no voltage crossing over to the coil wire. Had brand new regulator but it does have an old condenser on it that could be bad, just cant find anything in the manual about the condenser for an ohms reading. Anyone know where I can look for the spec on that condenser? I also tried checking the diagram and cant seem to find the condenser on there either. It goes to 1 of the 4 slots to the regulator wire harness. Ive also tried calling some auto parts stores and cant seem to find this exact condenser, they can only find the condenser to the coil which I already replaced for a brand new one. I apologize if I've skipped any steps you guys have told me, I'm trying to take it step by step and fix everything I find on the way. Not trying to waste anyone time. I appreciate everyone help and input

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"condenser" in this case is simply an alternate term for capacitor.

being a capacitor, it should show infinite resistance ( or at least meg ohms ) to a DC signal, but it may show a momentary low resistance when you first touch the test leads too it, as the plates charge up. you should really short the plates out before you attach the ohm meter to the leads so you don't pop the fuse in the meter.

before you short it out, it should be holding +12v on a volt meter if it's been connected to power recently, unless the Ign switch shorts it to ground when you turn the car off.
 
Sorry for the confusion, the condenser/capacitor being refereed to has a wire going to the points and is located under the distributor cap.

However, if you do not have power going to the + side of the coil with the key on and in start, there is no point in going further until that is rectified!

When you open the wiring harness up, and start tracing it back, it should fork or split into two wires. One should stay pink and head turn for the firewall plug. (Before it gets there, it should have a resistance wire spliced into it.) The second one from the splice should be yellow and go to the starter to supply 12v during start.
 
I did notice how the coil + wire splits to a different wire while I was looking through my wire diagram, I traced my wire to the coil + and it's a direct wire from the coil + to the regulator harness so I might need to correct that when I get back under the hood again before I continue my diag. By any chance does anyone know what the ohms reading needs to be for the condenser connected to my regulator harness? Still havent been able to find it in the manual

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The capacitor mounted on the regulator and the coil are radio interference suppressors only. Specifications are found .5MF. on the reg. and .3MF on the coil. Specifications are found under radio noise interference suppressors.

I have edited my diagnosis post adding a few words to help keep things in order.
 
I can check YOUR distributor/rebuild it IF nec. & re-curve it & install a one wire electronic conversion kit so you don't EVER have too worry or adjust points EVER again.


Tom T.
 
Thanks for all the info guys, I tried responding a few months ago but the website was being worked on and I couldn't get into the Forum through the application. But just an update, you were right about the resistance wire, it was cut and wasnt connected. When I found it I connected the wire and then had spark. But after a new carb and correcting my spark issue, the engine was still working too hard due to heavy oxidation in the block so I recently took the engine out and will be rebuilding it after I get my block, heads, and intake manifold back from the machine shop. Does anyone here have any recommendations for the engine that may fix any faults this engine might have had when they were built I may not know about? Any info, tips and advice is greatly appreciated

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check out the thread on oil pressure fixes and work arounds.

simplest thing is a 5/8 oil pickup, which you should be able to scavenge from a 74-76 455.

there's also How-To on drilling out the oil galley from the timing cover to the pickup tube.

then you can take a die grinder to all the corners in the timing cover, so the damn thing will flow.

and you should always check / rebuild your oil pump while the engine is apart.

or, you can buy a brand new timing cover from TA Performance. they also have the large ID pickups.
 
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