Buick Lesabre 1963 Staion Wagon

Alen

New member
Hello,

my name ist Alex and unfortunately my english is not the best. Sorry for that.
I'm dreaming of un US-car since more then ten years and last week I did it. I know it's a little bit "weak-minded", but i had do by it:D. A lot of work, some parts missing, bad interior, rust… Think I was a bit "blinded for love". So what!

But: The car looks great!

In the moment I am trying to get to know the car a little bit. How does everything work, what is missing. Find out which engine, 401 cui? How to get the admission for germany. And so on.

Regards
Alex
 
guten tag, Alex.

all variants of the Le Sabre should have had a 401ci in 1963.

we don't have a Chassis Manual for 63, but we do have them for 1960 and 66. you should be able to figure out pretty much everything about your engine between the two books.

https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/60_chassis/index.php

https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/66_chassis/index.php

unfortunately, there is a body style generation in between these two books ( 1961-64 ) so the rest of either of these books will be of minimal utility.


www.TAPerformance.com

https://egge.com/
 

Alen

New member
Guten Abend :)

thanks for the links to the books, I will "study" them soon.

Concerning the engine I was just puzzled because on the airfilter housing is written wildcat 445. I've learnt in the meantime this ist not cui but the torque in ftlbs. So far so good, but I thought (maybe hoped) the wildcat engine differs from the normal engine. Maybe stronger, more cubic capacity. Don't know.

Regards
Alen
 

Alen

New member
Some additional infos:


Engine number is 1849046 and in some distance a 5. I've heard there should be somewhere an engine code like JT or JR. Where can I find this code?
Number on cylinder head: B11 969 14 J

Horsepower should be About 280hp, right?


Thx
alex
 
Alex, The 1963 4 barrel carburetor 401 (JT) was advertised at 325 hp. The 1963 2 barrel carburetor 401 (JR) was advertised as 280 hp. It will have more grunt than you think.

The engine code should be on the right hand side (passenger) of the front valley cover rail.
 
Engine number is 1849046


that looks like a casting number of some part, whether the block or intake or something. you usually have to pull the valve cover off to find the head casting numbers.

here's a partial list of casting numbers:
https://www.teambuick.com/reference/casting_numbers_nailhead.php


Number on cylinder head: B11 969 14 J


this is another casting number. ignore the letter at each end and you'll find this casting number in the list, fourth from the bottom of the "Head Cast #" numbers.

the ID numbers that you are looking for are all stamped and typically stamped on the Block on the production line.

https://www.teambuick.com/reference/ident_engine_where.php
 

Alen

New member
Hi,

thanks a lot for your helpful hints.

Ok, then it seems that I have a 401 cui nailhead engine. Horsepower depends on the carburetor (2bbl: 280hp, 4bbl: 325hp). I will check which one I have. Does that mean I can get 45hp more, only by changing the carburetor?

Concerning the engine number I made a mistake. It’s not 1849046 but 1349046. Sorry for that. Now I can also find the number in your list (8th from the bottom).

Slowly things are getting more clear

The inscription “wildcat” on the airfilter-housing has no meaning?

Bye
Alex
 
Alex, for 1963, Buick called the engines in the full-size cars (all nailhead V8s) Wildcats. Attached are the pages from the '63 sales brochure explaining the name.
 

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Alen

New member
How to open tail lights

Hello again,

one more question:

How can I remove the "glas" from the tail lights? I want to replace a bulb, but cannot find any screw! I hope that I don't have to remove the whole lamp. This would be a nightmare.
Is the glass panel only clamped? Can I remove it carefully with a screwdriver?

Thanks again and regards
Alen
 
According to the shop manual, the rear lamp socket is removed from inside the car to replace the bulb. Hopefully this will be easy to see on the right side by removing the spare tire cover.

Attached is a page from the '64 shop manual showing rear wiring on an Estate Wagon (same tail light as on '63). Also attached is an exploded view of the '64 tail light assembly. The lens shows to be attached by three screws. These screws may not be visible when the housing is mounted in the bezel.
 

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Hi,

thanks a lot for your helpful hints.

Ok, then it seems that I have a 401 cui nailhead engine. Horsepower depends on the carburetor (2bbl: 280hp, 4bbl: 325hp). I will check which one I have. Does that mean I can get 45hp more, only by changing the carburetor?

Concerning the engine number I made a mistake. It’s not 1849046 but 1349046. Sorry for that. Now I can also find the number in your list (8th from the bottom).

Slowly things are getting more clear ��

The inscription “wildcat” on the airfilter-housing has no meaning?

Bye
Alex
Alex, were you able to find the engine production code letters on the block? There is some chance yours may be the low compression, regular gas, 2 bbl, code JS engine with 265 HP.
 

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Alen

New member
Hi Todd,

thanks for your help.

If I really have to change the rear bulbs from the inside this will be very interesting. I saw a guy in a short film removing the rear light bezel from inside (3 screws). He taped two "lengthening pieces" (don't know the right expression) from a ratchet together and worked blind. I hope there is an other, easier way:D. I am waiting for my manual!

I did not find the motorcode. By now it's about 0 degrees Celsius in our hall and I'm waiting for warmer weather. But your picture will be helpful to find it.

Regards from cologne
Alen
 
He taped two "lengthening pieces" (don't know the right expression) from a ratchet together and worked blind.


"extension bar" in the States. the Brits probably have some goofy terminology i don't know about like "lorry" or "bonnet" or what have you.

https://www.google.com/search?q=3/8+extension&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

if you need to get the socket off axis of the extension bar, you want to use a "wobbly". this allows the socket to pivot up to ~7 degrees:

https://www.google.com/search?ei=dgZbXM2fJ5CzjwTHubfYAw&q=3/8+impact+wobble+extension&oq=3/8+extension+wobb&gs_l=psy-ab.3.1.0i22i30l6.217022.219152..220992...0.0..0.154.686.0j5......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0j0i22i10i30.P3FMd75R3y4
 

Alen

New member
Hello all,

I have some more questions. Speedometer and front direction signal does not work.

Does anyone know which actuating mechanism for the direction signal switch I need or maybe a part number? Only the actuator! The switch works.

Same question (name/number) for the "thing" in the automatic gearbox where the speedometer cable is fixed. Sorry, I don't know the name for it. If you untighten the screw you can take it out of the gearbox. Maybe the plastic gear wheel is broken. Speedometer cable is new, and the speedometer works when I turn the cable on the gearbox side with my fingers. One stupid question: If I remove this "thing" will all automatic oil get out of the gearbox?

Thanks once again!

Sorry for my English, hope you understand what I mean :)

Regards
Alen
 

Alen

New member
Update:

Today I managed to remove the "speedo gear/drive pinion" out of the gearbox. Half of the teeth are missing. The gearwheel ist white and has 18 teeth. There ist 18T written on it. Do I have to change the whole unit or can I remove only the gearwheel? Oil is still in the gearbox :D. Where can I get the parts?

Regards
Alen
 

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Update:

Today I managed to remove the "speedo gear/drive pinion" out of the gearbox. Half of the teeth are missing. The gearwheel ist white and has 18 teeth. There ist 18T written on it. Do I have to change the whole unit or can I remove only the gearwheel? Oil is still in the gearbox :D. Where can I get the parts?

Regards
Alen
Buick sold only the complete assembly as shown in your picture. Part number is 1352589 for the Speedometer Driven Gear. None of these could be found from an Internet search.

Luckily, the nylon gear is being reproduced. Here is one on eBay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=232442045844&_sacat=0

Another source is www.nwtparts.com

Here is the casing routing from the shop manual. Bends should be as gradual as possible.
 

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Hello all,

I have some more questions. Speedometer and front direction signal does not work.

Does anyone know which actuating mechanism for the direction signal switch I need or maybe a part number? Only the actuator! The switch works.

Same question (name/number) for the "thing" in the automatic gearbox where the speedometer cable is fixed. Sorry, I don't know the name for it. If you untighten the screw you can take it out of the gearbox. Maybe the plastic gear wheel is broken. Speedometer cable is new, and the speedometer works when I turn the cable on the gearbox side with my fingers. One stupid question: If I remove this "thing" will all automatic oil get out of the gearbox?

Thanks once again!

Sorry for my English, hope you understand what I mean :)

Regards
Alen
Here is the exploded view of the steering column. I am not sure exactly which parts are required without knowing more about the symptoms. The directional signal actuator, item AL, is GM part number 1995843.
 

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Alen

New member
Thanks Todd,

very helpful informations and pictures! I will order the nylon gear.
Meanwhile I managed to "repair" the direction actuator. We will see how long it works, but in the moment it's ok. The movement from the actuator on the rod was to less. Therefore the switch didn't went in the end position and the right signal worked only in the rear. Fortunately by now I don't have to buy the actuator.

Regards
Alen
 

Alen

New member
Hello all,

at least I managed to find the engine code. It's an JR engine with an Carter four barrel (AFB) carburetor.

Regards
Alen
 
That relates to a '63/401 cubic inch engine with the 4 bbl. carb. Rated at 325 HP @ 4400 rpm's & 445 t. lbs. of torque at 2800RPM's. Advertised compression ratio is 10.25-1. In reality closer to 9.75-1 or slightly less.

Tom T.
 
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