How do I free up a really stuck heat riser butterfly

[CraigR]

Hi, this is my first posting, so be gentle !! I have a 1949 Super with the 248 engine. Problem is my heat riser butterfly is stuck and it is super heating my intake manifold. I should have been being sure it was moving & not stuck, I know. I have used Sili-Kroil spray numerous times after I removed the whole Int-exh manifolds, tapping hard on the end of the shaft, but to no avail. I was wanting to keep it functional.



Thanks, Craig R

[telriv]

As far as I'm concerned the heat is not needed any longer the way the vehicles are driven today. We normally DO NOT take our cars out during in climate weather. If it effects anything in may be in the 1st. 3-5 minutes of start-up. Get it to open & leave it there.
Just MHO

[CraigR]

Thanks "telriv" for your quick response. I guess I could straighten out the butterfly, to allow a straight flow of exhaust. However I was wanting to keep it functional as well, (if possible). I was hoping someone had a tried & true method of freeing 'stuck ' shafts. I really can't spend 500 $ for a replacement. Thanks again, CraigR

[telriv]

Like I said, "It's not needed for the type of driving we do with these cars today". I'm sure you won't notice any diff. in the way the vehicle operates. Those things were a PIA when they were newer & used on a daily basis. Today with the infrequent use they are more of a pain than they are worth.
Just my two cents worth.


Tom T.

[Muley Gil]

GM used to make a heat riser lube. Not sure if it is still available or not. If not, use liquid Kroil. Squirt some on both ends of the shaft and then tap on either end, alternating front, rear, front, rear. I always used an 8 oz ball peen hammer. It will free up shortly. Re-lube monthly.

[Jenz38]

On my compound carb manifold its also sticky in the open (no warm up the carbs) position and im happy about it.
Like Telriv said, let it like it is.
If you free them you can have the bad luck that they chattering and blown thrue the shafts that its sounds like a brocken exhaust manifold.

[CraigR]

On my compound carb manifold its also sticky in the open (no warm up the carbs) position and im happy about it.
Like Telriv said, let it like it is.
If you free them you can have the bad luck that they chattering and blown thrue the shafts that its sounds like a brocken exhaust manifold.

Thank you Telriv & Jenz38 for your suggestions. However I decided to hammer the butterfly back, to allow a constant free flow of exhaust . It looks original from the outside. I did use aerosol Sili-Kroil repeatedly along with tapping the shaft for many days, I was concerned I would crack the casting. I have believed in Sili-Kroil for many years. It didn't help this time though. I will torque the nuts & bolts to 25-30 foot pounds, in the sequence described in the '48-'49 shop manual. Thanks again for all the responses. CraigR

['51 Special]

This is a bit of a follow-up on Craig's thread. My question: Is it possible to set the choke so it pulls off properly once the butterfly is out of the picture (I had the manifold off, couldn't move the shaft using any chemical, heat, or physical pressure, and so sawed off both ends of the shaft from the inside). My 263 starts fine in cold weather, and runs fine inside. But, when it is traveling in cold weather, the choke closes back up on a warm engine as the heat riser is essentially non-functional. I don't want to use a hand choke (but will if I must). No one is currently offering an electric choke for 6 volt systems.

[telriv]

In that case a hand choke is the only & easiest solution.

[Jenz38]

If i would drive in winter and had this problem i would let the airfilter suck in warm air from above the exhaust manifold, like the newer engines do it automaticaly if its cold.