Need advice on pulling my 320 with tranny attached

**Just Bill** · 11-12-2014, 09:58 AM

I have a 1946 320 that I am in the process of pulling with the tranny attached. It looks like if I remove the 4 bolts at the rear of the tranny, attaching it to the torque tube, that I can then just slide everything forward and lift out. Looking too easy, but is this advisable? Thanks!

**LONG** · 11-12-2014, 10:22 AM

the issue is there are not lifting links on the engine. and that's a ton of weight. I pulled the head on the 263 and pulled out with tranny. the are a few other post like this. try the search.

**Just Bill** · 11-12-2014, 10:38 AM

I should have added that I removed the head and have a lift with motor leveler bolted with #8's to the block. The front is off, and except for those 4 bolts on the back of the trany , everything is ready to pull out. Maybe I'm overthinking those 4 bolts, but I did the searches, and no one mentioned removing the tranny like that. Thanks!

**LONG** · 11-13-2014, 11:35 AM

pretty sure. just mount bolts and the flange bolts around the trans ball to tube.

**Just Bill** · 12-19-2014, 06:46 AM

I pulled Betty's motor yesterday. Except for two bolts on the rear cross member I had to cut off, it was not a bad job. There are absolutely no wear ridges on the cylinder walls. I can work in my shop now to separate the tranny from the bell housing, remove the clutch /pressure plate and see why the motor is stuck.

**kuhn1941** · 12-20-2014, 03:07 AM

I agree , that will be me when I get more parts racked up for my 41 Buick special - has the smaller 248 . Soak those cylinders and pistons down with Marvel Mystery Oil for a couple days . That stuff eats away crud and carbon from over the years . Good luck

**Just Bill** · 12-20-2014, 08:08 AM

Your 41 is looking good. My Brother in Florida has a 41 Century He is restoring. We got the head off a few weeks ago to find a bad head gasket that was making problems, but the cylinder walls and valves are in great condition.
I got my 320 out without help, except for the levelizer. The only tricky part was removing the cross member bolts. I think if I had not been using my air ratchet it would have been easier. The problem was keeping the carriage bolt shoulders in the slots on the backside. The top most bolt in the collar where it bolts to the torque tube took two long extensions and a flex connector to get the 9/16 socket to it. The other five came out with no problems.
Good luck to you.

**Jyrki** · 01-03-2015, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by Just Bill

I pulled Betty's motor yesterday. Except for two bolts on the rear cross member I had to cut off, it was not a bad job. There are absolutely no wear ridges on the cylinder walls. I can work in my shop now to separate the tranny from the bell housing, remove the clutch /pressure plate and see why the motor is stuck.

Which model Roadmaster is this - 4D, 2D or a convertible?

**Just Bill** · 01-03-2015, 05:02 PM

Originally Posted by Jyrki

Which model Roadmaster is this - 4D, 2D or a convertible?

She is a 4D.

**Just Bill** · 01-15-2015, 10:48 AM

I'm working to tear this motor down, and have run into another stuck part. The cam timing gear is stuck. I removed the center bolt and have tapped and pried on it with no luck. I can see bolts through the legs of the gear. Do these need to be removed first or is the gear supposed to come off after the bolt is removed? There was all kinds of crud on the timing set. This seems to be the main culprit involved with the motor being stuck.