motor stuck

**justjoe** · 12-16-2012, 06:25 PM

About 2 1/2 years ago I rebuild my 1950 248. It had problems, spun bearing ect.. It has a .30 over bore and .30 under crank and several new rods, all non babbit bearings. During assembly it was all plastic gauged and the motor turned over nice. I assembled the engine with permatex assembly lube and installed the engine. I have not run the motor since. This past summer I installed the plugs, distributor and wires and rotated the engine to #1 position to set the timing. I also shot some more WD-40 into the cylinders. Now 6 months later I find the engine stuck. My newly rebuilt starter will not spin the motor with the plugs out. The battery shows 6.7 volts and that is not a problem. With a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer it moves 90 degrees and stops, then the other 90 and stops.

This car has been stored in a heated shop for all these years. It is hard to understand how rust could have found it's way into the cylinders to lock this engine. I have poured pb blaster, trans fluid and motor oil into the cylinders. Still it moves 90 degrees and stops. It does move easier until it hits the what ever and stops. I do not want to force it. I also do not want to burn out my new starter.

Any advise would be helpful

Joe

Has anyone else had a problem with a motor sticking so easily? I have heard of cars sitting out in farmers fields for years and starting up,why is this one stuck?

**raycow** · 12-16-2012, 08:09 PM

Just to make sure I am understanding you correctly, are you saying that the engine was turned at least one full revolution without any problems after the transmission was bolted up to it? I know you said it was installed in the car, but was the transmission bolted up at that time? What kind of transmission do you have?

Ray

**Straight80** · 12-17-2012, 02:57 AM

When you assembled the engine did you oil the pistons and rings before setting them into the engine? The engine sat for 6 months with no spark plugs in it? If this is true, you're finding out that that was a poor idea. Never let an engine sit with no plugs unless it's being disassembled. Use the WD 40 let it sit for a few days, then bar the engine over one complete revolution, or until it starts to turn easier. Spin the engine without the plugs with the starter One more question, did you use LUBRIPLATE engine assembly grease on all the journals and cam bushings? This is what I did with my engine, before starting the engine, I cannibalized an old distributor and pumped oil throughout the engine before even turning the engine. Put the spark plus in, and fired that FIREBALL UP. It ran like it had been running for years!

**justjoe** · 12-17-2012, 05:17 PM

I know the motor was free at that time because I had to rotate the flex plate to get to the special nuts and tighten them. I used permetex engine assembly lube to put the engine together, It rotated very nice after I got it assembled. This engine has sat for two years and was covered with plastic and the plugs were not in. It is in a heated shop, but what I forgot is we had a very hot and humid summer. These temerature changes could have brought moisture into the cylinders and caused rust. A very cool night the a very hot humid day could have caused condensation. The shop was also cold this past week end, I cranked it up to 65 degrees to see if some warmth would help. I hope it is very light rust.

thanks joe

**telriv** · 12-17-2012, 06:30 PM

How solid is the engine when it stops??? Could be little meces made a home in one or more cylinders. Wouldn't be the 1st. time I've heard this happen.

**nali** · 12-18-2012, 12:11 PM

An engine stuck by rust make no noise when it comes to the "stuck point". It s quite progressive.
An engine stuck by a bolt or something touching the flywheel will make a "clonk" noise when 2 parts comes to contact.

**LONG** · 12-18-2012, 04:06 PM

pull the plugs and rocker shaft and try to spin her. might be a stuck valve. just rap on the valves with a plastic hammer and see if they all pop.

also wd40 is not a lubricant just a water dis-placer. good luck

**Straight80** · 12-18-2012, 04:08 PM

Nali you are absolutely correct! Rule #1 after rebuilding an engine never leave the spark plugs out. The intake and exhaust can be taped over very easily. That is a total shame, some one mentioned mice earlier today. Which makes sense, most of the time mice bring rocks and other solids in their nest. Not just batting. The mice make sense, but it's funny the engine just stops? A rusted engine is progressive, two solids make a clunk. I don't know if there is a camera available small enough to fit into the spark plug hole to see what's in the cylinders. Worst Case the the head has to come off again

**nali** · 12-18-2012, 04:25 PM

I had this pb twice on other engines. In both cases it was between engine and trans ... Too long nut, or incorrect building.
I d have a look at the flywheel.

**Mark S** · 12-18-2012, 05:35 PM

Originally Posted by nali

I had this pb twice on other engines. In both cases it was between engine and trans ... Too long nut, or incorrect building.
I d have a look at the flywheel.

If the engine turned freely when bolting up the transmission, and now does not turn freely, I agree that it may be the transmission connection causing the problem.