no spark

[njlimbaugh]

Time to jump out your ignition switch and circuit. Run a wire from the hot side of the battery to the wire feeding the coil. If the engine starts either the ignition switch is toast or there's a break in the circuit. To test the switch use a jumper wire around the switch from feed to ignition output. If the engine starts the switch is bad. Any circuit can be checked the same way by isolating segments from connection to connection in order to find the break in the circuit.

[DocModisett]

With the old points system,,, never, ever replace just one element... always replace both the points and the condenser... and always replace the wires, dist. cap and rotor together.... like it has been said the system will not, will not work without the condenser... because it soaks up the residual voltage from the coil before it can fire again....the points plate has to have a grounding point too.... somewhere....some have a ''pig tail'' for this , some dont....

[twobirds]

well everything has been replaced almost twice now,some of it with new parts that i have had sitting around,but i mean new like new still in there box not just parts laying around,raining today so tomorrow im gonna go buy more new stuff,to get parts any newer im gonna have to start sleeping in the factories that there made in

[suntreemcanic]

I think you need to do a little trouble shooting before you start buying more parts. A quick and dirty way to check parts and circuits is to remove the distributor cap and inspect the points position. If they are not in a closed position rotate the engine so they are. Then turn on the ignition switch to the run position. Take a small screwdriver with a good plastic or insulated handle lean over the fender and pry the points apart. If there is a nice sharp blue spark you know the ignition switch is working the coil, points and condenser are good enough for the engine to run. If you have good spark then the trouble is "down stream." We will go there next.

[DocModisett]

Yep,,,, what suntree said.....

[twobirds]

well as i started putting the screwdriver in there i hit the center of the distributor for a second on accident and it sparked and then pryed the points apart but no spark,then it started raining again...man im sick of this rain lol..anyways wondering if theres a fuse or something now ive blown? otherwise i guess were going "down stream" i suppose

[detroyt]

My advice would be to start at step one and move on from there.

1. Are you sure your getting power to your coil and do you have the correct polarity?
2. Check all grounds to make sure they are well bonded.
3. Use some sandpaper and dielectric grease to make sure your getting the most of all your connections.
4.it is my understanding that only copper core wires will work with straight 8 motors.
5. Some coils will not work with copper core wires and visa versa.

I always keep an extra ignition system in my trunk, Wires ,coil, points, a few condensers and so on, if there is ever a problem (and there has been) I can systematically replace each piece from the power source to the plug.

Hope this helps. I know ignitions can be really frustrating when they aren't working, just take your time and remember we play with old cars for the fun of it.

[suntreemcanic]

Twobirds, yes you must just touch the arm and the base of the points and pry them apart. If the spark between the point contacts is blue that is good. Then we go down stream. We need to check for spark at your spark plug. You can do that by several ways: remove the wire from the plug, try to slide back the insulator and hold it about a 1/4 inch from the top of the spark plug, have a helper crank over the engine. The spark also should be blue and crisp. If you do not have a spark, remove the cap make sure the rotor is in place and inspect the center inside of the cap and make sure the contact has not fell out during installation. If all this is good we will have to look at timing next. Have faith it will run. Maybe the rain gods will leave you alone for a while.

[DocModisett]

Like Suntree said,, the spark from the coil should be blue and snappy crisp,,,, and if its not something is wrong...you can make the coil fire by touching the points to ground and removing the tool and when the contact breaks the coil will fire...us mechanics called it ''making and breaking'' them....this is a basic test to see if a coil is good...
those points are glazed,, replace them,,, if you can keep from it , never file or sand points... just replace them... and keep a spare set on hand at all times.... they are designed to be replaced with the condenser every 10,000 miles...and the spark plugs too... on the old points system replace the points, condenser, and spark plugs at 10,000 miles, the wires, dist cap and rotor at 25,000.... and install and set the points to the correct gap , lube the cam in the dist. with a BB sized ball of wheel bearing grease, then and only then, set the basic timing with the vac advance disconnected.... then reconnect the vac advance and check it with the timing light to see if it is working... if the timing advances when the line is hooked up, its working,, if not , it aint....

[39CENT]

Like Suntree said,, the spark from the coil should be blue and snappy crisp,,,, and if its not something is wrong...you can make the coil fire by touching the points to ground and removing the tool and when the contact breaks the coil will fire...us mechanics called it ''making and breaking'' them....this is a basic test to see if a coil is good...
those points are glazed,, replace them,,, if you can keep from it , never file or sand points... just replace them... and keep a spare set on hand at all times.... they are designed to be replaced with the condenser every 10,000 miles...and the spark plugs too... on the old points system replace the points, condenser, and spark plugs at 10,000 miles, the wires, dist cap and rotor at 25,000.... and install and set the points to the correct gap , lube the cam in the dist. with a BB sized ball of wheel bearing grease, then and only then, set the basic timing with the vac advance disconnected.... then reconnect the vac advance and check it with the timing light to see if it is working... if the timing advances when the line is hooked up, its working,, if not , it aint....

A longtime ago an old timer showed me how to check for spark out in the boonies. With ignition on, pull dist. cap off, turn it upside down, put a half dollar in the middle on the coil contact and open the points and it should cause spark.
You can tell it was a oldtime trick as we dont have half dollars anymore, or do we? Well anyway then use a quarter, just havto move one side closer. Oh and it will also tell ya if you have any wires that need replacing.