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- Straight Eight Engine Specifications
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Thread: New and have questions!

  1. #1

    New and have questions!

    Hi everyone. I'm 19 and a freshman in college. (My dad) and I have recently inherited a 1952 Buick Special, after my great uncle passed away. It is 99% complete, but is a little rough. He aquired the car during his years of fabrication and metal work, and never got a chance do work on it.

    So here are the questions:

    1. Should I leave the straight 8 in it? It has the automatic trans. I am not looking for a racecar, but I would like something that could keep up with these sport compacts at the stoplights ("Performance" parts?). And get something more than like 5 mpg Otherwise, my dad is trying to convince me to do a frame swap and put a big block in it.
    2. If I keep the 8 in it, should I convert it over to 12 volt? I'm afraid the old cloth covered wiring will cause a problem
    3. Are parts readily available/somewhat cheap? I don't want to break my already strained bank account, since I still have to pay for classes at college
    I ask these questions as I don't know much about parts for cars THIS old. I will assure you that nobody here will have to worry about me Chopping and Channeling this car and rat rodding it. This car is in too nice of shape and I don't have the heart. I am just looking to have a fun car to drive in the summers. AND to show these kids driving the little sport compacts how it should be done (I think I musta been born in the wrong era! haha)

    Any help regarding these questions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    '52 Buick Kid

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    This car will never keep up with RICERS and its not suppose to. These cars were not known for their MPG's. I'm all about originality. Get it running and see what you have before you mod it. I have a '50 with the original wiring and I drive it. Just my 2cents!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    On converting to 12 volt: You shouldn't really need to do that. What's important with a 6 volt system is keeping everything in tip-top shape. All connections MUST be clean and tight. Charging system must be working as designed. Fuel and ignition systems must be 100% for easier starting. Some parts are reasonable in price, some are not: it all depends on availability. In my opinion, although I have nothing against rods (I'm rodding a '74 Chev stepside) when it comes time to sell, you'll be much better off selling a clean stocker instead of a rod. Want a rod? Fix a Chevy or Ford. Want something unique? Keep it stock!

  4. #4
    About modifying your 263, I'd look up all threads by "Alleycat". He knows all about the 248 and 263 engines. If your options are hopping up the original engine or swapping a V-8, I'd say go ahead and modify the straight-eight. You need a dual-carb intake and a matching exhaust manifold (from a pre-war Buick) or fabricated headers, a good ignition system (yes, 12 volts), and shave the head to increase compression. A good pocket port job on the head, will work miracles, too

    If you decide to fabricare your own headers and/or intake, look up "Ol'Yaller" for laser-cut flanges. He can also supply you with a HEI distributor.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by oldwood View Post
    This car will never keep up with RICERS and its not suppose to. These cars were not known for their MPG's. I'm all about originality. Get it running and see what you have before you mod it. I have a '50 with the original wiring and I drive it. Just my 2cents!!!
    I completely agree. I have a 64 LeSabre I got from mom
    (dad bought if for her brand new). I refuse to do any mods
    that would turn this car out of its original intention.

    And people appreciate a car which has kept to its roots.
    Especially if there comes a time you decide to possibly
    sell it at auction.
    1964 Canary Yellow Buick LeSabre Convertible - bone stock, approaching 93,000 original miles.
    300ci, aluminum heads, 4bbl, 2spd, A/C, PS, PB

  6. #6
    Thanks for all of the help guys. I know that it runs and drives. I did drive it around the yard a few years ago, but it wouldn't start soon there after. We just couldn't keep a charge on the battery.

    I'd probably just like to keep the body somewhat stock but just put a little into the motor and exhaust. Like the exhaust manifold and dual carb set.

    I know it probably not keep up with modern tuners, but I just don't want it to be one of those cars that looks amazing, but falls flat on its face when you step on the gas. Just a little 'pep' in its step would be nice.

    Unfortunately, I probably won't be getting to this for a little while, since I gotta finish up the other project first (let's just say it involves me shoe-horning a SBC 350 into a Porsche 944). Then my dad will probably start on his truck...

    But I hope to get started soon!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    I think it's awesome that you are 19 and are into these cars...I myself feel that age but am almost twice it...I was reading a post on the HAMB last night entitled "Are kids still dreaming on sidewalks?" about the younger generation and the classic car hobby. Good to see some still are.
    I wanted to do the same to my '52; be careful, I now have two (one parts car) in a rented shop and a '51 on the way and have spent well over 10K and am just now getting finished...started in 2008. It's expensive. My advice is to get some catalogs from CARS, Inc. and Bob's Automobilia, check out www.buickfarm.com and eBay for parts often. There's a junkyard in Lowell, MA called Colonial, I think they have a yard in NH as well and have a fair amount of old Buick stuff. Start small but work on the car as much as you can, even if you just go out and put a new odometer reset knob on it you bought for $3 at least you did something that day. It adds up.
    Oh, and go to as many car shows as possible. At least for me, the envy and jealousy I felt were quite a motivator during my resto.

  8. #8
    It's entirely up to you, kid. Those straight-8s are neat, and sound really cool when they run, but they're a torque monster. They'll go through anything (like mud), but they're not known for top end. Freeway speed (80mph) is pushing it. Great if you want a nice stocker, but not much else. That, and the stock transmissions really weren't that great either. The 3-speed manual's gears were basically like glass...guys back in the day got real good at swapping them out. And the Dynaflow wasn't also called "Dynaflush" for nothing. Lastly, if you put in a different engine, or anything bigger than a Nailhead, you'll need to swap out your rearend as well. That stock torque-tube just won't handle anything with a lot of power or torque. Now, if you want something hot, and need some advice, talk to me. I have a '53 Special that I'm hotrodding. Swapping out the original straight-8, tranny, and rear-end with an Olds 455, Chevy TH-400, and 12-bolt rear from a '67 Chevy half-ton truck, complete with the truck's trailing-arm rear suspension. Had to get custom mounts for the engine and tranny (from TransDapt), but other than that, a fairly easy swap. Brakes are discs up front (conversion kit from Scarebird) and drums in the rear, with a universal dual maser cylinder, and the correct residual and proportioning valves. Electrical system is all redone with modern wires and converted to 12-volts. Keeping the stock mechanical gauges, and everything else on the car is stock. Basically it's gonna' be a sleeper. It'll appear stock on the outside (with the exception of the lakepipes), but once I start it up, or if I pop the hood, you'll realize it's been modified. I'll be working on this project hardcore this summer, so I'll be posting pictures of my progress as I go along.
    Nate "Snake-Man" Shmay
    Club President/Pinstriper
    "Devil's Pit" Hotrod Club
    Thief River Falls, MN


  9. #9
    they're a torque monster

    I see this phrase used frequently, but I'm not sure what you mean?
    This one has 225 ft/lbs., about the same as a more modern but smaller six-cylinder.
    What does that make my 455 Riviera?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Maybe it's a torque Godzilla! Seriously, my wife timed my Special 0-60 with me holding it in low range until 30 or so...20 seconds. This was before the rebuild, so it might be down to 18-19 now. However, there are some Bonneville and drag race guys on here who make these things scream...it takes some work though. I think you are well on your way with dual carbs and a little ignition tuning (timing curve). Probably the one best upgrade would be a modern transmission with adaptor and an updated rear end. Keep the straight 8, modify the rest if you're able.

    Quote Originally Posted by kitabel View Post
    they're a torque monster

    I see this phrase used frequently, but I'm not sure what you mean?
    This one has 225 ft/lbs., about the same as a more modern but smaller six-cylinder.
    What does that make my 455 Riviera?
    1953 Special Riviera 45R
    1965 Skylark Hardtop 300-4V
    1965 Mustang (in the family since 1968)
    1965 Corvair Monza Convertible
    1965 Dodge Dart 170 Wagon
    1974 Pontiac Firebird Esprit

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