STR-8 oiling system

**Jyrki** · 01-14-2009, 10:15 AM

Gerry, thanks for the pics! Your oiling system caught my attention. I am wondering if you managed to route 100% of the oil thru the filter, and if yes, how did you modify the main oil gallery to accomplish this?

I remember someone else on this forum had also a full filtered system, but I forgot to ask how he did it. So here's your chance to spill your secrets! Anyone?

I'm also interested to hear if people have kept the Buick "floating" pickup tube functional. In principle it's kind of smart, but I don't know if it might cause the pump to suck air under some conditions?

**36 Century** · 01-27-2009, 07:12 PM

YOu can see my full filter system here. It is the two oil lines below the dizzy. YOu need to tap the block in two spots, as seen. Then put a plug in from the oil pan side so the oil is all forced to the filter then back to the galley.

**Jyrki** · 01-29-2009, 01:58 AM

Thanks for the info, 36 Century, I think I got the idea now. You plug the channel going from the pump to the main galley, just before the galley. Then you drill and tap a new hole from outside of the block, into that channel above the pump, route it thru a filter and back to the main galley.

But where is your filter?

Did you modify the pump or pickup in any way?

Did you keep that restricted fitting on the head that restricts oil flow to the rocker arm shaft? I would say my 320 has suffered from inadequate flow to the #7 and #8 rocker arms, and the rockers had worn out, as were the lifters. When I reassembled the engine, I primed the oil system with an electric drill, and it seems to take a very long time until you see oil flowing from the rearmost rockers. So I don't see any reason to limit the oil flow to the valvetrain, other than to limit oil consumption thru the valve guides.

The shop manual recommends 20 weight oil (SAE 20), which seems a bit thin, but I'm not sure if the viscosity specifications of the 40's are comparable to today's specs. I assume they are. I have been using a SAE 30 oil (5W30), and the oil pressure is normal. At least there's no need to go any heavier.

**Clint R. Blosser** · 01-29-2009, 05:27 PM

Originally Posted by Jyrki

Thanks for the info, 36 Century, I think I got the idea now. You plug the channel going from the pump to the main galley, just before the galley. Then you drill and tap a new hole from outside of the block, into that channel above the pump, route it thru a filter and back to the main galley.

But where is your filter?

Did you modify the pump or pickup in any way?

Did you keep that restricted fitting on the head that restricts oil flow to the rocker arm shaft? I would say my 320 has suffered from inadequate flow to the #7 and #8 rocker arms, and the rockers had worn out, as were the lifters. When I reassembled the engine, I primed the oil system with an electric drill, and it seems to take a very long time until you see oil flowing from the rearmost rockers. So I don't see any reason to limit the oil flow to the valvetrain, other than to limit oil consumption thru the valve guides.

The shop manual recommends 20 weight oil (SAE 20), which seems a bit thin, but I'm not sure if the viscosity specifications of the 40's are comparable to today's specs. I assume they are. I have been using a SAE 30 oil (5W30), and the oil pressure is normal. At least there's no need to go any heavier.

HI I wanted to ask a question about a 1950 248. I also plan on converting to full filter flow but I was wondering if you can run hydraulic lifters from a 263 in the 248? Thanks Clint

**Buick Guy** · 01-29-2009, 06:40 PM

Jyrki,
Here's a shot of the full flow filter on the SaltCat. Doug

**bob k. mando** · 01-29-2009, 06:44 PM

looks like your hose is getting collapsed in that first pic.

**Buick Guy** · 01-29-2009, 07:22 PM

Bob,
That's an illusion. The hose is a double braded hydraulic hose, and just today, I had to move the filter and had to use a pry bar to get the filter mount off of the mount studs. I didn't want to loosen the hoses or I would get a Mobil l oil bath. Not pretty. One note, the Aeroquip fittings in the block have to be of alternating lengths away from the block so that the hoses can clear each other. It took more time to go through the catalog than it did to put it together. If you are doing this project , let me know if I can help out. Doug

**Buick Guy** · 01-29-2009, 07:31 PM

Jryki,
Anybody contemplating this filter system. Keep in mind that "ALL" let me repeat:"ALL" of the oil has to go through the filter. If you rev the engine when the oil is cold and of hihg viscosity, you will balloon the filter or worse, blow the filter off of the car. You will show oil pressure until all of the oil has exited the breech. You will have mere seconds to save the engine. There isn't a bypass valve on this setup. Just a warning. Doug

**bob k. mando** · 01-29-2009, 07:47 PM

That's an illusion. The hose is a double braded hydraulic hose,

actually, i was talking about the hose above the distributor cap ( radiator? ). sorry for the confusion.

you will balloon the filter or worse, blow the filter off of the car.You will show oil pressure until all of the oil has exited the breech.You will have mere seconds to save the engine.

ouch.

too much work to kludge a bypass on there?

looks like if you used T-fittings instead of 90° elbows, you could configure a bypass to the rear of the filter without making things too crowded. would that interfere in the engine bay?