Straight 8 initial timing

**Fytclub** · 11-07-2008, 10:36 AM

Sorry guys, I didnt get a chance to do it this last weekend. I am set to try for this weekend though.

I promise to post back when I try it out.

**Straight80** · 11-07-2008, 05:11 PM

FYTclub,

Well hurry up! Just kidding, I know things get put off. I like to procrastinate sometimes myself. I know if I'm gonna do a job that I wasn't exposed to before, I slosh it around in my head. Read my manual to try to understand it better so I know what I'm trying to accomplish. Hey we've all been there, that's why we are here. It makes me feel good inside knowing I can help someone, so they don't make the same mistakes I've made in the past. If we don't make mistakes, we don't learn from them. Remember there is two marks on the flywheel. Turning the engine in the direction it runs clockwise, first you will see the mark for the timing setting when the engine is running. The second mark is TDC top dead center, in my Buick manual it says UDC upper dead center. You can put the distributor in on either of those marks, as long as it's on #1 power stroke. Remember both valves are closed on this stroke, if your engine has hydraulic lifters. I can help you with the initial adjustment. I can take the text right out of my manual for you if necessary. Can't wait to hear from you.

Anthony

aka Straight80

**Fytclub** · 11-29-2008, 12:07 PM

Thank you Straight80! Followed your instructions and she started up on the first key turn. Now I'm trying to get the timing perfect and adjust the carb. Smoked like a chimney but I was dumping Marvel Mystery oil down the carb to help with the lubing.

Once I get her idling good I'll get it out of the garage and try to blow her out. I have a very steep driveway so I don't want to pull my car out until it's running right cause I can't push that beast back up it.

Again thank you to everyone who has helped me on this.

Lee

**Straight80** · 11-29-2008, 02:13 PM

YEA!!!
Charlie, it sounds good from here. I'm very happy for you, I hope everything goes well from here on. If I remember correctly you had the head off for a valve job. Try not to let it idle too long without running around 2500 RPM's for a few seconds, this will help keep the plugs from fouling. Tune in the timing, set the idle. Recheck the timing, hook up the vacum advance. And go for it! You don't have to go ripping and taring, just go down the road like you would every day. Wow that's great, I hope you and yours had a wonderful Thanksgiving. Let us know how it goes, really nice hearing from you. Remember if you need something else, I'll try my best to help. If I can't, I'm sure someone on the forum can.

**joshhirst13** · 05-06-2014, 05:08 PM

Hey Guys,
I know this is an old thread, but I am also having a heck of a time starting my car/1950 Buick straight 8. I initially used the timing marks and it was barely cranking. After reading this I tried to find the compression stroke on #1 cylinder by removing the valve cover cranking motor by hand. I believe I got it somewhat to the right spot and then had to remove the distributor and reinstall because it was 180 degrees off. The car does seem to want to fire now that I've done this, but still no dice. After doing all of this there are no timing marks anywhere near the compression stroke on cylinder #1. Am I doing something wrong or could it be possible that the flywheel was removed and reinstalled improperly sometime in the past? Or does the motor need to continue to cycle to get to #1 again while matching up to the timing mark? I also don't really have the best understanding of how a motor works, but it seems like cylinder #8 opens once in between each other cylinder. So for example it would go #1, #8, #6, #8, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Josh

**LONG** · 05-12-2015, 11:26 AM

Originally Posted by joshhirst13

Hey Guys,
I know this is an old thread, but I am also having a heck of a time starting my car/1950 Buick straight 8. I initially used the timing marks and it was barely cranking. After reading this I tried to find the compression stroke on #1 cylinder by removing the valve cover cranking motor by hand. I believe I got it somewhat to the right spot and then had to remove the distributor and reinstall because it was 180 degrees off. The car does seem to want to fire now that I've done this, but still no dice. After doing all of this there are no timing marks anywhere near the compression stroke on cylinder #1. Am I doing something wrong or could it be possible that the flywheel was removed and reinstalled improperly sometime in the past? Or does the motor need to continue to cycle to get to #1 again while matching up to the timing mark? I also don't really have the best understanding of how a motor works, but it seems like cylinder #8 opens once in between each other cylinder. So for example it would go #1, #8, #6, #8, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Josh

flywheel has dowels and cannot be installed incorrectly. re verify initial timing. #1 TDC on compression stroke. Rotor pointing at rear cap clip.

**telriv** · 05-12-2015, 12:14 PM

Another way to accomplish this is by using the overlap method. Of course with the valve cover OFF. In other words when #1 cyl. is on TDC half way through the firing order is #8. On #8 the exhaust valve will be almost closed & the intake valve just starting to open. THIS IS THE OVERLAP. If you have solid lifters there would be valve lash on #1 cyl. & the pushrods would be very easy to turn with your fingers. Or if hydraulics the pushrods for #1 cyl. will turn easier than #8 cyl. Now you should be able to see that #1 cyl. is at TDC with the spark plug out & the timing mark on the flywheel should be VERY close. I use this method for adjusting valves also. Makes it easier than trying to adjust with the engine running & MORE accurate to boot. It would go as follows. 1/8, 6/3,2/7, 5/4. Then just the opposite. 8/1, 3/6, 7/2, 4/5.
Just another way of accomplishing the same thing.

Tom T.