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wacker

New member
Emailed with d.elgin today and they asked me to take the lifters out and take a photo on the surface. Then they would analyze the cam/lifter interface.

But any advice on how to make them rotate easier. Hone the bore somehow? I hope there is a way that doesnt involve taking the engine apart again.
 
The lifter bore should be honed lightly with a brake cylinder hone. When you place the oiled lifter into the bore, it should fall down into place on its own. If it does it is a good fit and the bore should not interfere. From your description, it sounds like the bores were probably fine.
 

wacker

New member
At least some of the non-rotating ones do fall down by themselves, not at the same speed as a normal freefall but it does fall down.
By design all lobes got an offset compared to the lifters, some has a left offset and some got a right offset. I noticed that all rotating ones got a left offset.
I need to confirm if there is a taper on the cam lobes. Maybe there is and all got the taper at the same side, meaning righ offset lobes got the taper at the wrong side(middle of lifter instead of side).
 

wacker

New member
Confirmed with D.Elgin, they have not tapered the lobes.
So either its doing one more try with the existing cam profile, just resurfacing the lifters a bit by hand. Or redoing the cam with the offset in mind doing tapered lobes. Doing that would basically ruin my plats go use it during the summer :(
 
When you had them regrind the cam, you should have had them resurface the lifters? If you did not, I would not recommend you do it by hand, I would suggest you send them either to Elgin, or someone who can do it properly.
 

wacker

New member
As I wrote in the first post D.elgin fixed both the cam and the lifters. What I am talking about here is doing a slight resurfacing using a 220 grit paper doing eight movement to make sure they are rubbed evenly.
This is what D.elgin told me. Still that wont probably make the lifters rotate, just get them back to the starting point from before the breakin.
 

4076c

New member
lifters wont rotate

I have always understood that the lifters have a symmetrical convex curve on the bottom that is surface hardened for better(longer) wear and the lobes of the cam are not at 90 to the sides but slope one direction to spin the lifters, also to prolong wear, as the cam doesnt rub the whole face of the lifter(less friction as well)Confirm? Deny? I wonder, if these are hardened surfaces, how you are expected to fix the cam they were supposed to repair themselves after you paid them to do it, by hand sanding hardened machined precision surfaces. Just Sayin'?
As I wrote in the first post D.elgin fixed both the cam and the lifters. What I am talking about here is doing a slight resurfacing using a 220 grit paper doing eight movement to make sure they are rubbed evenly.
This is what D.elgin told me. Still that wont probably make the lifters rotate, just get them back to the starting point from before the breakin.
 

wacker

New member
I have always understood that the lifters have a symmetrical convex curve on the bottom that is surface hardened for better(longer) wear and the lobes of the cam are not at 90 to the sides but slope one direction to spin the lifters, also to prolong wear, as the cam doesnt rub the whole face of the lifter(less friction as well)Confirm? Deny? I wonder, if these are hardened surfaces, how you are expected to fix the cam they were supposed to repair themselves after you paid them to do it, by hand sanding hardened machined precision surfaces. Just Sayin'?
That is true for most modern push rod engines. But the straight 8 had flat lifters and flat cam lobes. There was no slope on the cam lobe.
Hand sanding was the idea by the company who made the the cam grind for me and it actually made it better.
There are still lifters that is not rotating.
Tomorrow I will remove the cam, mark the lobes with dykem, put it back again and turn the engine while I have a "marked" lifter in each lifter bore. Doing this will mark the offset of the bores on the cam lobes.
After that I will remove the cam and send to a local regrinder here in sweden. They will use the offset marking to regrind the cam with a taper in the right direction. This will cost me an additional 450-500 dollars but at least it should make them rotate.
 
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