At least this dope knows how to spell. It's COOK not COKE. Cook - Verb and to heat. Coke - A beverage.
At least this dope knows how to spell. It's COOK not COKE. Cook - Verb and to heat. Coke - A beverage.
Just mak'in laughs. No harm.
But coke is the correct spelling for the subject at hand. Cocca Cola, or later Coke, came long after smelters used the term in iron work and black smithing. Chimney and fireplace contractors and boiler makers use the term as well. Spelled Coke. Cook is a noun as referred to as a person, or may serve as a verb as in what the Cook does namely, Cooking.
Thanks in Advance!
David
Born Buick - " I like things just the way they were and drive-em just the way they are "
I understand what coke is, used to be tons of it on the railroad right of way behind the farm. Your statement would have been easier to under stand if you'd said "...turns to coke."
Did you try to use lead additive? Were the valve seats ever hardened? if not could be the issue my car runs nice and quite since I have been using the lead additive
Stop thinking Chevy and Fordincation. Buick used a very high nickel content in the block and head castings and hardened seats are not necessary for nailheads. Cadillac did the same during these model runs of the mid-fifties to early/mid sixties.
Thanks in Advance!
David
Born Buick - " I like things just the way they were and drive-em just the way they are "
it makes no difference what the block/heads are made of......
all we are talking about here is the cam/lifters/valve gear....all of them need the zddp in the oil....even if the engine is a high nickle casting.......
As the originator of this thread, I thought I would check in and report that after several years all my work as described in this thread continues to be effective in eliminating the lifter noise that I originally had. Furthermore, with the limited attention I paid to the valves and the Marvin's Mystery Oil I used then and still use, I have nearly eliminated the oil smoke I experienced when I first posted.
Maybe I should put this new question in another location, but since I am here; I don't drive my Riv. often but when I try to start it, there seems to be no gas in the carb or the fuel line. I have seen posts about gas escaping from the carb. But in reference to an empty fuel line; is it kosher use an inline check valve at the gas tank outlet?
It's normal for the ALUMINUM AFB carbs. to "Dry Out" during a non-use period. I wouldn't worry about it too much. I would rather have my starter crank the engine for a little while to help promote a little oil pressure before starting a "Dry" engine. Some want their engines to start immediately after sitting for a period of time. I, myself, would rather not. Some say you will wear out the starter prematurely. I would rather rebuild/replace the starter than engine bearings. The starter is also easier & less costly than engine bearings. The most wear on ANY engine is the initial "DRY" start.
Just IMHO.
Tom T.
Tom Telesco
Classic and Muscle Automotive
12 Cook St.
Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
Custom forged pistons
Front & rear neoprene seals
Many other "Nail" parts
"If I can't get it, you don't need it!"
Well … If one is referring to valve seats and guides and resulting wear regarding additives in fuel as the original topic was based upon, yes it does make a difference as to both the quantitative and qualitative nature of the makeup of the metal. Lead in fuel acts more as a cooler not a strict lubricator and cools the critical mass areas around the guides, valve stems and seats. However, when speaking in regards to the context of an oil additive and not a fuel additive, then the type of metal fatigue of concern is due not to frictional forces but rather precisely from pressure of impact or hammering forces. The additives used to combat these are Zinc or rather ( Zinc Diakyl Dithio Phosphate) compounds by introducing them into a good carrier compound with the chemical backbone ability to carry this compound without prematurely phasing out the ZDDP is a good dino based mineral oil as opposed to a true full synthetic oil which does not have the requisite chemical backbone to sufficiently carry and bond DZZP without risk of phase out.
Thanks in Advance!
David
Born Buick - " I like things just the way they were and drive-em just the way they are "
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