Luckily, the tank does not have to be removed on that model to remove the sender unit. There is a removable plate in the trunk floor that allows the sender to be removed with the tank in place. Pulling the tank is a devil of a job as much of the exhaust has to be removed first. Also if the gauge has to be removed from the dash, it comes out from the front in a simple procedure.
To find the trouble, use a divide-and-conquer strategy. There is a disconnect in the tan wire from the tank sender unit beneath the car close to the tank. If you pull this link apart, the sender is separated from the dash gauge. A spare sender unit can be attached to the wire headed to the dash. Then connect the sender case to frame ground. Sender should have 0 ohms resistance at empty and 90 ohms at full. Resistance should vary smoothly from full to empty. These tank units are pretty much universal as far as electrical operation, any 0-90 ohm 12 V unit should work for testing. As another test, an ohmmeter can be used to measure resistance on the old sender unit while working the float up and down.
Operating the float on the spare sender will simulate the unit in the tank. If the dash gauge then works right, the sender in the tank is bad. If the malfunction remains, the dash gauge may be bad. Other suspects are the wiring up to the gauge and the circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster. There is another disconnect plug for the tan wire (along with numerous others) where the body harness connects to the dash on the left side of the car. Good luck with it.
What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)
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