New (Rebuilt) Starter Installed----Engine Will Not Fire Up

**easyellis** · 01-19-2013, 09:10 PM

My electra had been having some starter issues that I was aware of, removed the starter day after Thanksgiving to have it rebuilt by a reputable starter guy. Because USPS lost the starter as it was being sent back to me, I received it a couple of days ago. Put the starter back on today and the engine turns over consistently without hesitation. However, this is all it does, the engine does not fire up. I put new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and coil on several months ago, until now I had no problem with the engine starting other than the starter. I ruled out the coil by installing the previous (working) one that I pulled off, still nothing. The carb is getting gas, was able to see the fuel squirting into the chambers. I even poured splashes of gas down the carb but still nothing.

I'm trying the process of elimination with this, but would like to have a "warm fuzzy" to see if I'm headed in the right direction. Since ruling out the coil the next step I will take is to look at the distributor cap and rotor. Sometimes moisture can build inside the cap and cause issues; it has been really cold here and the car is garaged. I'm thinking/hoping that this is simple but want to ensure that there are no blind spots that are not being looked at. Am I on the right track with this or should I be looking at other things? I appreciate your reading this lengthy post and your responses in advance.

Ed

**Dr. Frankenbuick** · 01-20-2013, 05:36 AM

Ed,

There is a wire that routes 12 volts to the coil from the starter when the ignition switch is in the starting position, but power is redirected through the resistance wire when the ignition switch it is in the run position. This way the coil gets 12 volts for better spark and easier starting for a few seconds during starting, and then returns to 8-9V through the resistance wire when running. This prevents ignition component from burning out from exposure to excessive voltage during normal operation. Check that the two smaller wires are attached to the starter in the correct position (R and S terminals). You should have 12 volts (or continuity at the coil with the battery terminal) with the ignition switch held in the start position when the starter wires are installed and functioning correctly. You can also test this by jumping the coil on the positive side from the positive side of the battery while cranking the engine. It will fire , run and stay running even after you remove the jumper if the problem is with starter wires or starter wire connections. Try to remove the jumper wire as soon as possible if you jump it. The ignition system is only made to experience 12v for a short time before dropping back.

HTH

**easyellis** · 01-20-2013, 06:19 AM

Thanks, I'm tracking with you some, but I need the layman's version. I am almost positive that I put the wires on exactly as I took them off, but this is something I will check. Also, explain more about jumping from the positive side of the coil to the positive post on the battery. What's needed to do this?

**easyellis** · 01-20-2013, 06:30 AM

I took a picture of the starter after it was removed so that I would remember the which wire was on what terminal. The purple wire is connected to (S) and the yellow wire is going to the (R) terminal.

**Dr. Frankenbuick** · 01-20-2013, 07:02 AM

Originally Posted by easyellis

I took a picture of the starter after it was removed so that I would remember the which wire was on what terminal. The purple wire is connected to (S) and the yellow wire is going to the (R) terminal.

Make sure the terminals are not broken and are tight. Make sure the wires are not broken, unshielded, grounding or damaged.

Jumper wires are for testing. They are two foot sections of 18 gage wire with alligator clips on either end. Clip enough of them together to span from a bolt on the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal of the coil. Be careful to shield the connections between wires with the plastic sleeves on the clips to prevent accidental grounding. Then try to start the car with the key. Disconnect the jumper wire if it starts. Do not leave the jumper wire connected for any length of time . The jumper wire should be used to see if it starts and then should be removed immediately.

**easyellis** · 01-20-2013, 12:21 PM

Got it! So, if the car starts with the jumper wire it's indicative of crossed wires on the starter?

**Dr. Frankenbuick** · 01-20-2013, 07:29 PM

It sounds like you have the wires on right, but that does not mean one has not been damaged during the repair or that there is not a problem with the connection/post at starter. This was the only area of change and it was running before the starter change. The test above helps isolate that problem. If it runs with the jumper and continues to run when it is removed we know there is something wrong with the circuit in the start position and nothing wrong with the circuit in the run position.

**easyellis** · 01-21-2013, 01:09 PM

Jumped the coil and positive battery post and car still did not start. With the wires connected correctly on the starter I will crawl back under there in the next day or so to check tightness and also ensure that neither wire is damaged or touching anything. Will keep you posted in the next day or so. Thanks so much for your help.

**Dr. Frankenbuick** · 01-22-2013, 04:35 AM

It is not the starter wires if you jump the coil and it does not start or run. We have bypassed the starter circuit with the hot wired coil with no change (other then you are now most of the way to stealing your own car). I would move on to the points and distributor. Did you add new points or change the point gap by accident?