1956 Buick Torque Tube

[lstepp2]

I have three 1956 Buick Specials. I am planning to install a T-700R on the Fireball, 'Nailhead' 322 engine. Is there a technique, method if you will, of connecting a driveshaft to the Torque-Tube driven rear-end? Do l need to replace the Torque-Tube driven rear-end with a driveshaft driven rear-end? Is there a driveshaft driven rear-end that will mount up in place of the torque-tube driven rear-end without modifications to the frame or body??

[raycow]

Is there a technique, method if you will, of connecting a driveshaft to the Torque-Tube driven rear-end? Do l need to replace the Torque-Tube driven rear-end with a driveshaft driven rear-end? Is there a driveshaft driven rear-end that will mount up in place of the torque-tube driven rear-end without modifications to the frame or body??

If you had a lot of money and the services of an expert machinist and welder, you could probably adapt the torque tube to an open drive transmission. Other than that, there is no practical way to do it. That's why almost everyone doing a transmission swap converts to open drive.

Because your car is a 56, you can replace the rear axle center section with one from a 61-65 car, which is open drive. This will let you keep your existing axle housing. However, you must still replace the rear suspension with a design that can handle the driving forces which were formerly taken by the torque tube. Your most common suspension choices are a 4-link, ladder bars, or "truck arms". All of these require some modification to the frame and axle housing. There is no way to avoid this.

Ray

[lstepp2]

If I replace the third member with a 1961 can I mount the to stablizing rods that go to the Torque tube to the frame??? If I connect this rods to the frame a install a rear sway bar, will this work?? Thanks

[raycow]

If I replace the third member with a 1961 can I mount the to stablizing rods that go to the Torque tube to the frame???

Absolutely not. Those braces are nowhere near strong enough to withstand the axle housing torque reaction. Everyone who has tried to use them for that purpose has met with disaster. There are pictures of the resulting damage here on the forum somewhere.

Ray

[Long Roof]

Ray,
What is the failure point in that setup, the stabilizing rod or the connection point on the frame? I ask because that is how my rear axle is setup. I don't have that many miles on it yet and honestly have not dirven it very hard. The car seems to drive well like that but it sounds like I need to beef it up?

[lstepp2]

Thanks, the thin rods whether connected to the TorqueTube explains why every time I apply the brakes, on my 1956 Buicks,
the rear-end tries to get in the front seat with me.. I always have to pump thebrakes to avoid losing control of the rear-end. I learned that after my Buickhas slid sideways through a signal light when I was a kid. And why the car slidtowards the driver's side every time I applied the brakes. It took three orfour times before I realized I had to pump the brakes to keep the car straight.
You said I can use a 1961-1964 rear-end. The width of the 1956 Special rear-endfrom brake backing plate to brake backing plate is 60 Inches?? Does anyone knowif the complete rear-end out of a 1961to 1964 medium sized Buick, like the Skylark, had the same with as the 1956Special??
I really appreciate your time and experience. I just had the Coachworksrestored and I do not want to damage the car!!
Thanks guys

[Buford26]

The only direct bolt-in open drive center section is 1961-1962 fullsize because 1956-1962 fullsize used 33 spline axles. If you want to use a 1963-1965 center section you will have to get custom axles because the axles used 30 splines starting in 1963, or you might be able to get your current axles resplined. The 1963-1965 Riviera rear end is the same width as the 1956 Special/Century rear end, so you could use a complete rear from one of these cars. You would still have to deal with the suspension though. I don't think a rear end from a 1961-1964 Skylark would be strong enough for a heavy car like a 1956 Special.

[Buford26]

Ray,
What is the failure point in that setup, the stabilizing rod or the connection point on the frame? I ask because that is how my rear axle is setup. I don't have that many miles on it yet and honestly have not dirven it very hard. The car seems to drive well like that but it sounds like I need to beef it up?

The failure point is the stabilizing rods. They were not designed to take the torque from the axle, that is what the torque tube is for. If you remove the torque tube you have to replace the stabilizing rods with something that is designed to take the axle torque, like Chevy truck trailing arms. Lots of info over on the HAMB, here are a few:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...1&postcount=33
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=578566
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=144403

[raycow]

Ray,
What is the failure point in that setup, the stabilizing rod or the connection point on the frame?

The usual failure point is just forward of where the brace attaches to the axle housing. If you look at yours, you may be able to see where it is bending.

Ray

[telriv]

Put the '56 & a '63-'65 Riv. up on the lift side by side. You will see MANY simularities. Just transfer over all the suspension & brackets over to your '56. Wa La, you now have a rear suspension designed for a big heavy car designed by Buick & not some cobbled up Frankenstein.
Just my thoughts.