From the Reference Section:
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Idle Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-barrel Carburetors, Linkage Sticking
- Buick Cam Specifications for 401 and 425 nailheads
- Buick Cams from Kenne Bell, 401, 425
    - Nailhead Engine Specifications
- Head Flow Chart
- Nailhead Oil Pump
- Nailhead cam specs and cam selection
- Nailhead Parts Interchange
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Thread: New to the site and new to Buicks. "63 Wildcat questions.

  1. #1
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    New to the site and new to Buicks. "63 Wildcat questions.

    Great site here.
    I have recently bought a '63 Wildcat with a bad engine and this is about the only place I have found with info on the Nailheads.
    I have done a lot of reading and learning and really appreciate the extensive amount of info here.

    What I need to know is about engine interchange.
    I have found a good running 364 from a 61 LeSabre.
    I plan to put it in the Wildcat and get it running then focus on some other areas of the car. If I like it I will probably rebuild the original engine later and put it back in.
    The 364 has a rear sump pan and I am wondering if I can use it in place of the center sump pan which was in the car or must I switch pans and oil pumps. If so is there any problem in switching them.
    Thanks and any input apprecaited.

  2. #2
    Although the center sump pan will fit the 364, the center sump pan pump & pick-up will NOT interchange. Oil pump mounting points are different. Maybe if you were able to fab up your own pick-up it may be possible. If you can come up with a way to overcome this I would like to know for future reference. I would be interested in buying the rear sump pan for one of my own projects.

    Tom T.
    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
    Custom forged pistons
    Front & rear neoprene seals
    Many other "Nail" parts
    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

  3. #3
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    Thanks.
    The block is different where the pump bolts up?

    My best solution may be to just rebuild the 401 sooner instead of later.
    I haven't torn it down yet. The engine was out of the car when I bought it. I was told it still ran good but had a knock that sounded like a rod bearing. When I get in to it I will know more about which way I need to go I guess.

    I still have hope that the engine with the rear sump will clear the tie rods but assume not or they would have used that design.

  4. #4
    Correct, the rear sump will NOT work with the suspension set-up you have.
    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
    Custom forged pistons
    Front & rear neoprene seals
    Many other "Nail" parts
    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

  5. #5
    Rem,
    I have a center sump oil pan from a 401 that I am looking to replace with a rear sump oil pan. The 401 and 364 pans should interchange I would galdly trade you if you are interested. I am not sure what modifications need to be done on the oil pickup tube but I am sure something can be done.

    1956 Buick Century Estate Wagon

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long Roof View Post
    Rem,
    I have a center sump oil pan from a 401 that I am looking to replace with a rear sump oil pan. The 401 and 364 pans should interchange I would galdly trade you if you are interested. I am not sure what modifications need to be done on the oil pickup tube but I am sure something can be done.

    Can't get rid of the pan.
    I have both a 364 and 401 and don't know what I will be using.
    It looks like I will have to try to use the 401 center sump with whatever I use but will keep the other. If I get the 364 to work I will plan on a rebuild of the 401 eventually and put it back in then will have a complete 364 left.
    I would like to eventually put the 364 in my '59 F-100.

  7. #7
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    OK
    I pulled the pan and pump off the 401 this morning and I can't see any reason the pump won't work on my 364.
    I have the 364 upside down on the stand and both pumps here and they are obviously different pumps but seem to be completely interchangeable.
    What am I missing?

    There was a piece of piston skirt in the pan of the 401 so that probably explains the knock.

  8. #8

    Unhappy nailhead oil pump

    try bolting the 401 pump to the 364 block you will see the problem, I am going the other way using a rear sump pan on a 401 , having to make a modified pickup for the pump
    Last edited by nailhead; 12-21-2010 at 04:20 PM.

  9. #9
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    issit possible to bend a piece of 3/8 tubing to extend the pickup to the filter?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by nailhead View Post
    try bolting the 401 pump to the 364 block you will see the problem,
    Well that was simple enough. Thanks

    I had put the pump on the block but hadn't given the bolt holes any attention.

    How many different pump pan combinations were there.
    Were any 364's used with a center sump pan and surely between '59 and '66 there were 401's with a rear sump.

    I am considering drilling the block to match the front hole on the pump. It appears the rear hole is located properly. Is there an easier/better solution.

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