Senior Member
SCAMPY
those white and black wires, (image #19) with the spade connectors, got me curious - can you follow the white wire back to the firewall connector - chance that it leads to the voltage regulator, and should be connedcted to the alternator...your wiring colors on the regulator are in a different pattern than mine.
since you do have some "home made" fixes, there are a few things that could be your problem.
also - you can use the battery charger, on the "start/50amp" setting to give the ol 425 a whirl. you can add as many batteries as you have (as long as you connect them positive (red) to positive).
not sure which engine the Scamp has, but it's stock battery is probably a little weak for the 425.
you REALLY REALLY REALLY do need a little el cheapo volt/amp meter, that way we can find a short or broken connection.
I got the Rochester 2bbl rebuilt over the weekend & the motor mounts welded on the garden trailer for the 300 to mount to. now I can fire er up/fine tune it before it goes back in the Lesabre.
gud luc
Butch
Junior Member
Does this have a tachometer? That might be what the other wire is for. I still haven't seen where you checked to see if you have 12volts to the coil. Did you check that? You can use a light bulb to check it. Sounds like you need to get a battery or charge yours first.
Pat
Senior Member
If you have bought a coil with a internal resister and then hooked it up to a car with a resister wire in the circuit ,,, then you have doubled up on the resistance... Tom and me are going to tell you the same thing,,,, start with the basics and go from there.... is the basic ign timing right... when no 1 cyl is at tdc with both valves closed is the rotor pointing at no1 spark plug wire terminal???? is the ign sw. working right,,,, then are the points and condenser good and set right... next is the coil its self....is it hooked up right and cool... quick way to ck is to install a known good coil....and see it it works...
maby this will help...
Junior Member
hello everyone again, I did a little shopping to see if i can find out the problem to the spark but no go. I am also sorry for all this writing but here is what i did
DocModisett: I check and recheck that the #1 cylinder is at the top that it won't move any more up and left it at 12 degrees BTDC. I read the book and it tells me almost all the numbers like .035 for spark plug gap which I did. the ignition switch works because the engine turns strong but again I have no luck with spark.
as for Points and condenser I got those new and I order two other ones in case. I did got a MSD coil with a ballast resistor like it said on the paper. new battery, battery terminals and spark plug wires. the only thing is that the rotor is pointing slightly off from the number 1 spark plug term. on the distributor cap going very little to the middle gap of 1 and 2. I know that there isn't spark at the coil.
Wildkitty: I check the white cable with a tester light. I plug the tester light on the neg battery and pointed the tip to the tip of the white cable - nothing. so i plugged the tester to pos. battery to the tip of the white cable and something churn I think that was the wind-shield wiper. the black cable I am not sure but i think that's ground because it is attached to the engine and it doesn't light up on pos. or neg..
As for the wires, I tryed looking at the page you gave me and took most of the heat protected tape off to see the original wires colors. from what I under stand from the page I am suppose to have 4 wires going to the positive coil (purple, white, orange and black but I have none of the kind just a black which seems to be negative and a condenser orange wire) and one on the neg. coil which is the black but I had a blue wire connected with the black as well.
The black (negitive?) wire from the positive coil, I followed it and found that it is connected to two wires. one black and the other copper color-like wire. I don't know what to connect to the coil anymore. I know that there is no spark at the coil. I will post pictures to see if everything i did was right, very sorry Im very young at this and learning thank you guys. I wonder if Im forgetting anything...
.
Junior Member
I forgot that my points have a small condenser attached. the condenser has the same orange wire connected to the points inside the distributor but I order a new set of points from autozone and the condenser is attached to the points. no orange wire.
All new items
MSD coil to point instructions
passager side engine
driver side engine
original wire colors
distributor cap
Blue wire connected to negative coil doesn't light up when tested with positive or negative? goes to the inside firewall
where it was before negative coil
Black cable that reads negative when tested with positive battery plugged. also has two wires going in this one black wire. not sure why? orange cable is the small condenser at the side.
I don't get this part
Senior Member
here's what I've learned so far
#1 you don't need the capacitor/condensor
#2 the grey wire that came with the kit goes to
the positive side of the coil from the left side of the ballast resistor. I would think that has a measured resistance that is meant for the coil.
#3 the negative post on the coil connects to the points on the distributor
#4 the wire that used to to go to the dist, now conneccts to the right side of the ballast resistor.
also, since it is a oil filled coil, it should be mounted
in an upright position - not laying down.
hook it up like this, put the battery cable back on
and it should fire up.
also, your pic shows the resistance wire and the connection to the starter is bare - that is a hot wire and should be insulated. when you turn the key, that should have 12 volts onnit.
the kit I look at has a "power tower" that fits in the coil - I would use that.
keep us posted
Butch
Junior Member
hello wildkitty, I did all those step today on my spare time and still no start. My dad check to see if there was a spark but no. I put the wires in the same set up as before but no go. I put them the way you advised and it didn't work. did you mean the condenser on the top of the coil?
I was wondering is that wire with the other two wires connected together, is that right? is that blue wire the resistance wire as well. what am I'm missing? how many wires are you suppose to have on the coils + and - sides. any other symptoms of no spark on the coil? thanks wildkitty and everyone
.
Senior Member
Scampy. google "HEI conversion 60 Buick____."
lots of info/diagrams.
Had you ordered the CD from Detroit Iron, you
would have had that sucker running by now.
and - I'd have less grey hair
Junior Member
Hi there, dont know if this helps but i had similar issues with my Electra -no power at the points etc, changed every thing, turned out it was a dead short in the regulator, the thing looked kinda new as well. The clue was there was no red ignition light on the dash.We reckon boosting the battery must have fried it. It may be worth popping the cover and taking a look inside. Have you checked your ignition switch ? a short here will give you the same symptoms. Hope this helps, good luck
Senior Member
scampy, - more dumb questions;
do you have it in Park?
are the wires all connected at the ignition lockout switch?
are both wires connected to the posts on the horn relay?
iin your pic, you dont have the white and blue connected to the alternator??
again, there should only be two wires connected to the coil; the grey one from the ballast resistor to the + post
the black one between the - on the coil to the distributor
have you tried to start it by jumping the starter.
I will work my way to the Wildcat and see if the color coding is the same as the LeSabre.
Butch
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