I dont know alot but ill try to help. Have you checked to see if your getting fuel to the carb.
Hello everyone, I have a 1963 Buick Wildcat that won't start. I did replaced new coil, new points, distributor rotor cap, and also a small electronic box that is a attached on the side panel next to the battery. there is one thing that I did not replace it is the horn relay. In my thinking I guess that this have nothing to do with the coil it looks to be only for a horn but there are other cables attached to this like the positive cable that comes out from the battery to the horn relay.
I need more info on why it doesn't start. The motor does turn like it wants to start but there is no spark from the coil to the distributor. Any help is very appreciated and I know by fact it could be simple.
I dont know alot but ill try to help. Have you checked to see if your getting fuel to the carb.
hi, thanks for replying. fuel is running well on carburetor. I am not getting a spark out from the coil to the distributor OR into the coil. this is confusing but I think i need that spark to make the car start up. Thanks again for reply. any little information could help.
any one know how to get my car started? how can I get a spark? any info is greatly appreciated.
I would back up a little farther and check you are getting your voltage from your ignition to the distributor. I believe the Wildcats use a resistor wire to bring the voltage from 12VDC to something like 6 or 9 volts. Anyway, you might check this resistance wire. They have been known to burn out. You can replace it with a regular wire and use a ballast resistor.
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ROA 11755
65 Riviera GS
Black/Black (restore in process)
See dyno break-in run here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuIKyzct4Sc
See first dyno pull after overhaul here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWGYfCwEvO8
86 LX Police Interceptor (SS) 5.0 Mustang
(wifes drag car)
Thanks for the advice, I will look into that. I am looking forward for more advice before I replace the cable. thanks again for helping. Just want to play safe than sorry.
Any other advice on what could be the problem.
I just went through that starting scenario - did you change the capacitor in the distributor? did you check to see if the points are opening? - is the wire from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil hot? you can try firing it by bypassing the ig switch and just run a wire from the battery + to the coil +, the "-" side of the coil goes to the distributor, then just jump the starter.
let us know how you come out - maybe I've missed something
You will need to use a ballast resister inline with the wire from the battery + or the points will "Burn Out" in short order. At least this will help to eliminate one possible source of the problem. Least we forget. An engine needs 3 things to run. One, & we wouldn't be here typing with one finger on a silly computer if we didn't have any, & that is AIR/OXYGEN!!!!! Two is fuel. Last is heat. In this case spark. Any one of the three & the engine WON'T run.
Tom Telesco
Classic and Muscle Automotive
12 Cook St.
Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
Custom forged pistons
Front & rear neoprene seals
Many other "Nail" parts
"If I can't get it, you don't need it!"
I mighta been wrong, but I purchased a coil with an internal resistor, which I surmized that would eliminate the need for the resistance wire.
you might have a better insight on this telriv
thanks
Butch
Just put 12 volts on one side, the +, & measure the voltage on the - side. That will tell you if the resistance is present.
Tom Telesco
Classic and Muscle Automotive
12 Cook St.
Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
Custom forged pistons
Front & rear neoprene seals
Many other "Nail" parts
"If I can't get it, you don't need it!"
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