valve train noise

**Redcat** · 11-29-2008, 07:22 AM

Hello all,
I have a 65 wildcat coupe with a 401. The engine apperars to have a valve train noise. When you first start the engine you really don't here the noise until after about a minute or so, then it comes in and you distinctly here one rocker arm or lifter. I dont have much experience with rocker shaft engines. So any help would be appreciated !

Thanks

**Redcat** · 11-30-2008, 07:40 PM

Sorry i didn't wonder through the website previously, or i might have noticed the reference section. I guess no one out of all that viewed my thread could enlighten me. Thats cool.

**Bob** · 11-30-2008, 08:24 PM

Could be a collapsed lifter. The first thing your going to have to do is pull the cover and see which one it is. You may be able to tell visually or you may need a hearing device. Many use a long screwdriver with the handle near the ear and touch a stable part of the rocker arm.

**mottrodder** · 12-01-2008, 12:59 PM

Redcat, Can't/won't presume to speak for anyone else, however, I take your comment about no response directing you to the reference feature as a valid point. "Someone" should have responded sooner. I'll say I should have. My preference has been to "lurk" and respond if someone else does not and I feel I can contribute. My reluctance to jump in right away is due mostly to my relative newness to this site and the fact that there are a lot of members who have much, much more knowledge and experience. I defer to them. Anyway, keep coming back. It's a great site with a lot of knowldgeable respectful people. Back to the thread: Did you find the info you need? If you ask for more, it is a good idea to include as much info as you can: What is the mileage, has the motor been rebuilt, is it all sludged up inside? etc. My initial caution regarding your noisy lifter: Make sure it is a lifter and not something else i.e. fuel pump, heat riser, internal engine noise etc. Good luck

**Redcat** · 12-01-2008, 04:54 PM

Thanks guys i really appreciate your two responses. I feel stupid for not investigating the site more in depth. I was hoping the site wasn't kind of clickish or people figured i would stumble on it myself. On a another note i spoke with a very dear friend of mine who happens to be a retired high end engine builder, 25-30k range. He told me to warm-up the engine and remove the v/covers. Crank the engine, locate the noise and slide a .015 feeler guage between the valve stem and rocker tip. Leave it under the rocker arm while the engine runs. The engine should momentarily skip, noise should disappear and stop if the rocker arm is bad. If the noise comes back after several minutes the lifter is bad. I haven't tried it yet, but it sound reasonable to me. Again thanks you guys !!!!
A real

**mottrodder** · 12-01-2008, 05:45 PM

If you do positively identify the offending valve try this: Bring engine up to heat, remove valve cover, spray some carb cleaner down the pushrod using the little red tube from the carb cleaner. Let the cleaner run down the pushrod. Your goal is to get some carb cleaner on/in the lifter. Do this 2 or 3 times. Let it soak for a few minutes. Use a brass or plastic faced hammer and give a few sharp raps on the rocker arm at the pushrod, not the valve. Start and see what happens. If no success, next task is to run the engine and rap the rocker while the engine is running (again,on pushrod side) If the nosie goes away, you have freed a stuck lifter. If not try again several times. It may take a minute or so for the noise to go away. If this does not work, you have not invested much effort and no money. Please keep us informed of what is going on.

**garys64wildcat** · 12-02-2008, 02:45 PM

I learned a trick from and old mechanic years ago when I owned a 66 Grand Prix and I had lifter noise. He said to put 1/2 qt of transmissiobn fluid in the oil. And drive the car for few miles, which I did, and the noise disappeared. tranny fluid has chemicals to keep internal parts clean in the trans. and does well on lifters. I did that to my 64 wildcat convert and it worked there and other hydralic lifter cars I have owned. If it dont quit you may have rocker arm or ? wrong.
Cheap way to go before a tear-down and it dont hurt the engine or oil. It does the same as the pricy additives at parts store like rislone etc
Good Luck
Gary

**Redcat** · 12-02-2008, 07:21 PM

Something else i failed to mention is that i changed the oil to 20-w50 gtx,this really brought the noise out. Not to change the subject, but i use to work as the body shop estimator at one of the local Chevy stores here in town, so i decided to call one of former service dept friends. Actually he is probably the best driveability tech in the shop. He advised me to put 2 qts of atf in the crankcase and let it idle for 30 min. I did and nothing changed, but had to change the oil again and went to 10-w30 this time plus a half a can of seafoam. The noise certainly quieted somewhat. This particular engine is definitely cold-natured and somewhat hard to crank (another issue) but i noticed the lifter noise is not audible till the engine has run about 2 minutes. So guys when i get to one of these southern terms known as A ROUND TUIT , YALL WILL BE THE FIRST TO KNOW !!!!
You know how busy things can get this time of year !!!

Shouldn't be to long

**Redcat** · 12-15-2008, 07:32 PM

My son and I decided to start from the get-go and do a compression test on the engine. Upon pulling the first two plugs on the drivers side bank, i assume these are 1 & 3 respectively. Alas NO washers on 1 & 3 and two on #'s 3 & 5. You don't suppose there might be a little compression leak around the plug causing a slight ticking noise ? Went to the other bank and #4 had the old washer,that was twisted and stuck between the new washer and new plug . When i bought the car owner stated the car had just been tuned up,so i called him and asked him who tuned it up and suggested he might find another tech ! We both got a laugh out of it and he's searching for another tech and my wallet still feels the same !