From the Reference Section:
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Idle Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-barrel Carburetors, Linkage Sticking
- Buick Cam Specifications for 401 and 425 nailheads
- Buick Cams from Kenne Bell, 401, 425
    - Nailhead Engine Specifications
- Head Flow Chart
- Nailhead Oil Pump
- Nailhead cam specs and cam selection
- Nailhead Parts Interchange
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Thread: Ease/difficulty of rebuilding a Nailhead?

  1. #1
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    Ease/difficulty of rebuilding a Nailhead?

    Is a nailhead any harder/easier to rebuild than any other engine? Would this be a good project for a first time builder?

    Thoughts? Experiences? Thx.

    P.S. I'm keeping it stock.. nothing performance wise.

  2. #2
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    Well I heard from a builder regarding this and he lead me to some good material for a build. He said it's no better or worse than doing any other V8. So I'll pull it apart and let the fun begin.

  3. #3
    I agree with your rebuilder. I would suggest that you get a shop manual for your car. It will have all the specs you may want.

    If you go to the "Reference" section of this site you will find an "Engine Build sheet". Print it out and use it, and keep it.

    The most difficult thing you will have to do is decide wether or not a used part is still servicable. If your concerned, ask questions or replace.

    Take your time and enjoy the project!


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  4. #4
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    Nailhead parts are a little more difficult to get (may have to get from the 'net or wait for your local parts store to have them shipped in.) They are definitely more expensive. One area that is of particular concern is the valve train. The rockers are shaft mounted and non adjustable. A valve job, deck and head clean up machining, and head gasket thickness all will alter dimensions of the valve train. Therefore care must be taken to make sure that all falls within a range the lifters can compensate for. Search this site for the 9 mistakes commonly made when rebuilding a nailhead. My particular cautions would be, don't smash the cam out of the back of the block to remove the "freeze" plug. Remove the "freeze" plug from the rear and remove the snap ring that retains the cam. Also, don't drive the 3 oil gallery plugs on the front of the engine in too deep. That may cause oiling problems to the valve train. There is a lot of good accurate information from some very knowledgeable people on this site. Spend some time searaching. It's free and can save you time, money and grief. Go for it.

  5. #5
    I'd definitely say the nailhead is easier than the Jag engine! I pulled apart a 56 322 and rebuilt it. That was fairly straight forward, just make sure to have the shop re-bore the cylinders, there are sources for the custom oversized pistons you'll want. If you have the con rods with clamp bolts in them, I recommend switching to the con rods with press fit pins for reliability. PST has a good supply of engine parts, just don't buy the pistons from them, they're the wrong ones and made in China, same for Kanter pistons. Get em custom, forged if possible so you don't have a piston grenading on you on the highway. Good luck, and the shop manual is your friend!

    Chris


    54 Buick Special 41D (with a 1956 Century block)
    64 Fiat 1500 cabriolet
    83 Bertone X1/9
    84 Jag S3 XJ6

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