If it starts and shut off as you release the key, take a volt meter and check for voltage at the coil with the key on. If there is no voltage at the coil, the problem is in the run circuit.
To All,
I have a 64 wildcase (wildcat) It will start but will not run newer carb
carter AFB, newer fuel pump. This is making me nuts my wife to because I am spending more time in the barn. the engine is a 401, the car only has
67,000 on it . the car has been with us since new. Can any one tell me how to fix my toy?
Thanx,
David
dfanta@verizon .net
If it starts and shut off as you release the key, take a volt meter and check for voltage at the coil with the key on. If there is no voltage at the coil, the problem is in the run circuit.
David,
Did you check the resistance wire going to the coil? The ignition switch could cause thes problems as well. Looking at the shcematic for a 64 wildcat (free download off the net, hopefully acurate), it looks like you get 12V from the starter solenoid during cranking, and then when you release to the run position, you feed a lesser voltage to the positive terminal of the coil. There is a resistance wire (appears to be white/orange/purple) coming from the ignition switch. It junctions somewhere with a yellow wire to the solenoid, and a pink wire to the coil. There is a purple wire at the solenoid that also goes back to the ignition switch (by way a nuetral safety switch), but this wire is obviously working, as you said the engine turns over. I would also hazard a guess that the yellow wire to the pink wire connection is fine, but that you are not getting a good connection from that junction back to the switch (or switch isn't working right). The above post about checking for voltage on the coil in the run position is a good idea! If it isn't there, you have a wire to chase....
Aaron
I have to agree. If it starts and dies as soon as you let off the key, then it almost has to be the low voltage wire to the coil. Because if it were the coil, it would never fire at all. That coil wire is also a fusible link, so if something goes amiss, it will burn up first so you don't destroy something else. I would look at that.
Now, if it is starting and the sputtering or backfireing, or loading up and dying, then it could be carburetor caused.
Check your choke flap on the carb and make sure that it is not completely closed and or completely open. When cold, it should be mostly closed.
IF you think it is starving for fuel, then again check the choke flap, and check/replace the fuel filter.
The last thing I could think of, would be an exhaust restriction, but it would have to be pretty darn severe.
Good Luck.
62 Invicta with 70,000 original miles. Dual exhaust otherwise stock. Blast to drive.
This reply may be WAY to late, but I had the same problem with my 401. When the engine was apart for a rebuild I installed the pertronix conversion kit. For about a week it worked fine, then I had the same problem as you are dealing with. All I did was swap the old style, new points back in and it worked everytime until I finally put an MSD distributor in.
I am not a firm believer in Pertronix after this episode.
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