Speedometer driven gear problem

'51 Special

Active Member
In order to match up my speeedometer to the 3.6 to 1 ratio rear end in my 51, I need an 18 tooth driven gear. Problem is, I'm not finding an 18 tooth driven gear for a manual transmission. Can anyone tell me if the speedometer driven gear assembly can be disassembled. (The manual says: "The speedometer driven gear is furnished only as an assembly consisting of sleeve, shaft, retaining washer and gear.") My goal is to install an 18 tooth gear out of a dynaflow on the .5 inch shorter sleeve and shaft from a manual transmission driven gear assembly. But I cannot figure out how to get the lock ("retaining washer") off of the shaft.
Or, if someone knows of a source for an 18 tooth speedometer driven gear assembly for a manual transmission ...
 
I ran into the same issue with the gears when I converted my 52 to manual. There is no need to remove the shaft lock. You can put the entire assembly in a press and push the shaft out of the gear. If the end of the shaft protrudes through the gear and is peened over, grind off the peened over portion before pressing out the shaft. One of mine was peened and the other one wasn't.

Did you swap transmissions, or did you replace the rear axle gears?


Ray
 
Ray-

Like you, I am switching an originally Dynaflow car to a standard transmission. I want to keep the original 3.6 ratio rear end for many reasons. It is in good shape, I already own it, it is in the car with fresh brakes installed, and the 263 has plenty of torque to move the Special with the taller gear. (My grandmother once had a manual transmission 53 Special. On level ground, she would start it off in 1st gear, then shift it directly into 3rd gear as soon as it was rolling at 5 mph. And we would proceed without a lurch, and without lugging.)

I lack access to a press, so I will need to take this to a machine shop. If I understand correctly, I need to have them press off the 18 tooth Dynaflow gear (from a 3.6 rear end), and also press off the 22 tooth manual transmission gear (from a 4.1 rear end). Is the reassembly step to simply have them press the 18 tooth gear onto the shaft assembly that formerly held the the 22 tooth gear, or did you disassemble the (now) gearless Manual speedometer driven gear assembly, press the 18 tooth gear onto the shaft, and then reassemble? Before reassembly, did you first grind a short, steep taper onto the end of the shaft? I ask because your experience suggests that these speedometer driven gear assemblies were originally made by pressing the gear partway onto the bare shaft (when it is very easy to align the shaft and gear), then joining the shaft to the case, inserting the keeper, and finally pressing the gear further onto the shaft to meet the specified 5-10 thousandths clearance.

(Also, I note that the shaft protrudes through the gear on both of my manual transmission speedometer driven gear assemblies (a 20 tooth from a 3.9 rear end) and the 22 tooth, but the end of the Dynaflow speedometer driven gear assembly is flush, just as you said.)
 
If I understand correctly, I need to have them press off the 18 tooth Dynaflow gear (from a 3.6 rear end), and also press off the 22 tooth manual transmission gear (from a 4.1 rear end). Is the reassembly step to simply have them press the 18 tooth gear onto the shaft assembly that formerly held the the 22 tooth gear

Yes, you have described the procedure pretty much as I did it. I would add that once the shaft has been pressed out of the gear, the shaft will either fall out of the sleeve from its own weight or else you can easily pull it out with your fingers. At this point, it might be a good idea to inspect the shaft and the bore in the sleeve just to head off any surprises later on.

When reassembling, press the gear partway onto the shaft first, then insert your feeler gauge (I used .006) between the gear and the end of the sleeve to set the endplay, and finally press the gear till it touches the feeler gauge. The shop should know how to do all of this anyway as long as you tell them how much endplay you want.

or did you disassemble the (now) gearless Manual speedometer driven gear assembly, press the 18 tooth gear onto the shaft, and then reassemble? Before reassembly, did you first grind a short, steep taper onto the end of the shaft? I ask because your experience suggests that these speedometer driven gear assemblies were originally made by pressing the gear partway onto the bare shaft (when it is very easy to align the shaft and gear), then joining the shaft to the case, inserting the keeper, and finally pressing the gear further onto the shaft to meet the specified 5-10 thousandths clearance.

No, I made no attempt to remove the retaining washer from the shaft because I didn't want to risk damaging the washer.

The end of the shaft was already chamfered on mine, so you probably won't need to grind a new chamfer on yours unless you had to grind the end of the manual shaft to get the gear off of it in the first place. On mine, it was the Dynaflow shaft that had been peened, not the manual, and of course I wasn't intending to use the Dynaflow shaft again. The bore in the gear should also be chamfered on at least one end, and this is the end that should face the sleeve upon reassembly. If both ends are chamfered, install the gear with its part number facing out.

My guess is that the factory pressed the gear onto the shaft (to its final position) before the shaft went into the sleeve. The washer would have been installed as the last assembly operation. I think this would probably be the most efficient way from the manufacturing standpoint if they had to assemble thousands of these things.

I think you will like the combination of the manual transmission and 3.6 axle gears. It is very easy to get the car moving from a standing start with this setup, even uphill. IMO, this is how Buick should have built the car to begin with.

Ray
 
Last edited:
Ray-
I got my speedo gear back from the machine shop. I gave them your instructions handwritten on the back of a copy of the Buick Shop Manual page that illustrates the gear assembly and gives the end clearance. Cost was a hair less than 20 bucks. A deal. Thanks.
'51 Special
 
I'm glad to hear that the gear switching went ok and the shop didn't report any problems. If it looks or feels like the shaft was assembled dry, try to get a little bit of oil in between the shaft and sleeve before you install the gear in the transmission. This is because the sleeve is above the normal oil level in the transmission and it might take a couple minutes of driving for oil to get in there.

Ray
 
Back
Top