210 degrees plus! What am I missing?

[Boots43]

I have a '63 special with a '84 231 v6, I've installed new water pump, new thermostat, new radiator cap. It has a 2 core griffen radiator and electric fan that runs the whole time the key switch is on. I'm still getting temps of 210-230 degrees. Starts and runs like a top. The crazy part other than the temp. is I can open the cap when it's reading 210 degrees plus. What am I missing??? Starting to stall when I drive it then starts right back up. Anybody ??? Thanks

[bob k. mando]

return hose from the radiator isn't collapsing, is it? make sure you've got one of those spiral spring inserts in the hose to hold it open.

do you have an aftermarket overflow bottle? i saw one of those once that was plumbed as a radiator bypass ( 2 nipples on alum overflow bottle, one hose ran to the rad pressure side hose, other hose ran to the rad return line ). on a race car.

is the radiator cap higher than the engine? you need to have A cap ( not necessarily the radiator cap ) at the high point of the cooling system. otherwise it makes it almost impossible not to have an air trap in the lines which will significantly interfere with cooling.

[Boots43]

Radiator hoses are good, no overflow bottle and the cap is higher than engine. I just find it strange that I can open the rad. cap at such a high temp. I will pull out the thermostat tomorrow, put the housing back on and check to make sure I have good flow going thru the rad.. I'm using 50/50 antifreeze also. Might have a buddy come check the timing for me. Thanks, Charlie

[raycow]

The radiator cap is the clue. I think your temperature gauge is suspect.
Try an infrared gun or just install an aftermarket gauge.

Ray

[Boots43]

Okay took me awhile but figured out my problem and it sucks. The '84 v6 had a serpentine belt setup and when the previous owner dropped in the motor he set it up with a v-belt setup. The belt goes on the crank and includes the alternator and the water pump. This setup turns the pump clockwise ( standing in front of car) instead of counter clockwise. Has anyone dealt with this issue? Any help would be great!!!

[TexasJohn55]

Well that explains alot! The cap area of the radiator was the suction side of the water pump, don't try removing the cap at 210 after you get the water pump spinning the right direction! I don't understand why it didn't pump coolant out the cap on cold startup. Maybe because centrifugal pumps are very inefficient when spun backward.

[Boots43]

I guess I will have to figure out a way to add a tensioner pulley or two so I can route the belt so it will spin in the correct direction. A trip to the junkyard for brackets or fabricate my own. Might try to put back to the serpentine set up if possible. Let the nightmare or I mean challenge begin.

[raycow]

This setup turns the pump clockwise ( standing in front of car) instead of counter clockwise.

Are you saying that your present pump can't be replaced with one that is designed to turn clockwise?

Ray

[Boots43]

I've looked all over different forums and searched the internet and have not found one. From what I have read a reverse rotation pump on the v6 would not work even if they made one??? I am not sure! Any help/suggestions. The pump must turn counter clockwise for the fins to move the water in the correct direction, right now it does just the opposite. Thanks

[bob k. mando]

mid-to-late-80s GM 3.8s used the serp setup with carb.

serp has less parasitic power loss and more positive engagement with the accessories than v-belt so i'd prefer to go that way even if it's more expense and hassle.

if you decide to go v-belt, i can't imagine that it's any more complicated than getting a ~1980 timing cover / water pump.

you want to go really expensive, TA has a high perf timing cover for the 350 / v6 which should work.