I don't know where to start

[J-Man]

I haven't been able to crawl under the car and take a close look yet but I will at the end if this week hopefully.

I just need to pick up an engine stand and ask around for a cherry picker. I have some ideas right now.

I am from Wisconsin

[exfarmer]

What was the outcome (my bet was on a broken rod that punched a hole thru the bloke; hope I was wrong) and are you back on the road?

[J-Man]

The outcome of the situation was a cracked block in the oil galley by the rear lifters, by the rear pug for the cam, and in the two rear cylinders. The cam was broken. Through the to rear rods. A rod blew through my oil pan in the rear corner and that was why all the oil was coming out when I pulled over on the side of the highway. the cam blew out the back of the motor and almost took off the torque converter by grinding off the three bolts which destroyed the flywheel. When my uncle and I were taking the motor apart we couldn't turn the the crank with all the pistons removed. Still not sure why this all happened. I just know it was a war scene taking it all apart.

Jake

[exfarmer]

Tough luck Jake! Hard to believe an engine could destroy itself that badly just cruising down the highway.

[J-Man]

Who knows. It could have been doomed from the start and it was a miracle is lasted as long as it did. I have a clean slate so now I can build something that will last and enjoy it. Thanks for your help again.

Jake

[bob k. mando]

Still not sure why this all happened.


like i said earlier, there's not much clearance between the crank and cam. once the rod locks up on the crank it often takes out the cam and the cam consequently takes out the lifter valley. this would be a problem on the 340 as well as the 350 because they've got the same stroke.

in your case, it doesn't really make much difference in the final outcome because it sounds like the rod did plenty of structural damage without hitting the cam. it's just more impressive this way.


the originating problem was likely oiling. pump gears wore into the timing cover and lost pressure due to excess side clearance or some such thing.

[J-Man]

Thanks for your help Bob. I am picking up a new 72 block tomorrow and the fun will begin. Could anyone give me some extra insight on my rebuild. I plan on using mostly TA products because the fact they are the only Buick product makers and they have a pretty good name out there. Here is my plan as of right now.

My goal is 350-400 hp and 425-475 ft of torque. I am hoping for 9.5:1 compression but I do need some help with pistons. I have 3.42 gears and the trans will have a complete rebuild on in it with a 2000 stall converter.

Clean, bore, and deck block for squareness
Balance Crank
Clean port and polish heads with a spring upgrade, harden valve seats, gasket match
Recondition rods
Solve oiling issues by drilling out main line in block with a booster plate, high volume pump and larger oil pick up tube
Aluminum intake manifold from TA
Timing chain cover from TA
290-94 cam from TA (what they recommended)
TA valve springs
Dual groove cam bearings
Main and rod bearings
Lower end and head bolt upgrade
Headers
Flowmaster dual exhaust
Pistons I am not sure if I should go with the TA cast pistons or if I should go with a hypereutectic piston. I know I will need to have a releaf cut on the pistons for clearance.

Does this sound like a good build or do I need to add/change things? I have been doing a lot of reading on the oiling issue but they seem directed for race engines. I want to do everything right the first time. Is the oil galley week and should I be concerned with the lift of this cam? Are there any other places than TA to look for good parts for SBB?

Thanks for everyone's help. I really appreciate it.

Jake

[bob k. mando]

My goal is 350-400 hp and 425-475 ft of torque.


flywheel or rear wheel? it makes a bit of a difference.

the 1970 SP code engine came rated for 315hp / 410tq from the factory. even accounting for optimistic OEM gross hp numbers off of the flywheel, your goal should be very practical.

most agree that the real bottleneck on the engine is the head ports. there's an article from the old Muscle Car Enthusiast magazine which details a porting job on the Buick 350 heads.

what's your max planned rpm? more rpm makes it easier to make hp but if you go north of 5500-6000 you should probably plan on new rods.



here's the old Kenne-Bell write up:
http://www.teambuick.com/reference/l...0_ken_bell.php

[J-Man]

That goal is at the flywheel. What is the difference usually between the flywheel and the tires?

The max rpm will be at 5500.

I read the Kenne-bell article you posted and I feel I am on the right track. However, the oiling system still is a consern of mine because of what happened to the first engine. Any suggestions? Pistons seem like all are treated the same when building and engine but the I always thought forged are more directed for race engines. As for cast vs. hypereutectic I am still not sure. I know the difference but not sure which route is better in the long run. Any suggestions for my build?

Thanks for your help Bob

Jake

[exfarmer]

Most people say to stay away from the hi volume pump as it puts to much stain on the distributor gear and isn't necessary anyways. Get an oil pump rebuild kit from TA and make sure the gear clearance is set properly. Don't forget to pack the pump with vaseline.