I don't know where to start

[bob k. mando]

That goal is at the flywheel. What is the difference usually between the flywheel and the tires?


everything makes a difference. manual or auto trans? you'll normally get ~5% slippage just in a torque convertor. size of the auto trans? how big and heavy is the rear axle? OEM steel wheels or lightweight alums? big ol fat racing slicks or skinnies?

rule of thumb is something like -20% vs the crank.



However, the oiling system still is a consern of mine because of what happened to the first engine. Any suggestions?

just check out the posts on fixing the big block oiling. you should be able to apply most of those fixes to your engine. simplest thing is upgrading the oil pickup from the 1/2" to the 5/8".

you can even get into the pump housing and timing cover and clean up the oil passages on all those right angle turns that the oil circuit makes with a die grinder.

i wouldn't bother with a high pressure pump. if you want more oil pressure, adjust your pressure relief valve. i saw a Fram filter get blown apart in a late 80s v6 Camaro because the pressure gauge was bad and my old man was trying to fix it by fiddling with the relief. once the filter can came apart we got the bright idea that, you know, maybe we might have plenty of pressure and the issue was someplace else?



I always thought forged are more directed for race engines.

they are WAY more durable to detonation and preignition. so if you're running really hi compression, forced induction, nitrous or may get stuck being forced to run the car in an overheating situation ( late laps of race, for instance ), you definitely want forged.

hypers don't have much thermal expansion so they have to have a lot less clearance in the bore than a normal piston and they may still rattle on a cold start. i've heard they're a bit brittle so if you're concerned about detonation i'd stay away. they're a good intermediate step between cast and forged but don't try to cheap out on the fuel. probably run premium or AvGas.

i would think normal cast would be fine for your power level goal.

[J-Man]

Exfarmer and Bob,

Thanks for your help.

So from what I understand cast pistons are a good choice for my build and upgrading to a hypereutectic piston isn't really worth the gain. Correct?

Now the oiling issues should be addressed by drilling out main oiling lines in the block, match bearing holes in main and cam bearings, larger pick up tube, a rebuild kit for the oil pump, and a booster plate for a little insurance?

As for the cam selection, the TA 290-94h, will I need to reinforce the oil galley with the lift of this cam?

Overall does the build look like I am on the right track and picking the right parts for the good quality build?

Jake

[bob k. mando]

on the stock rockers, you will be well under .500" of lift. i don't know why the lifter valley would be a problem.

as to the absolute limits of the design, your 350 is equivalent to 5.7L ... this is what the UK guys are doing with the 4.6L ( this one modded to 4.8L ), shooting for 400BHP:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEmk_GkKWsI




it frankly blows my mind that a full body car smoked off an Ariel Atom like that.

[J-Man]

Thanks for the information and the video Bob.

Jake