A) Is possible to get 250-300hp
the "SP" code engine from 1970 was factory rated at 315hp. so, yeah.
disclaimer: the 1970 rating was "Gross" rating from the flywheel with no accessories attached and a higher compression rating than what you've got
C) I keep the aut. transmission but seems not to fit this engine B.O.P transmission...?
the Chevy bell housing pattern does NOT match the BOPC stuff.
see here:
http://www.teambuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9781
if you can find a 200r4 transmission ( which should have a dual pattern bell ), this would be an excellent excuse to upgrade to a 4 speed automatic.
What must be done..?
1 - make sure the Rochester carb is in excellent working condition, you may want to find an 800cfm unit from a 455. some type of Cold Air ( a real CAI, not one of these retard Ricer things where they mount the intake directly behind the radiator ) or Ram Air intake never hurts
2 - look into a recurve kit for the distributor
3 - strongly consider headers and full dual exhaust. X-pipes are always nice
4 - modern cam grind
5 - the biggest gains to be made are in porting the heads and port matching the intake and exhaust. TA Performance offers an aluminum dual plane intake.
6 - raise compression. decking the block, heads and intake is the easy part. if you want to get fancy, put in high compression pistons.
also sometimes a pair of black stripes on the rod...?
Buicks are known for their torque. if your engine is running right, it'll probably leave stripes now.
any engine man experienced with Rover v8s should recognize most of this engine design. it's the overgrown, cast iron version of the aluminum 3.5L-4.6L or 215ci engine that was in Rovers from 1965 to 2004.
have him make any oiling upgrades he would do to a Rover.
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Vladimir Lenin
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H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)
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