Windlace for 1973 LeSabre
- Thread starter Ronjeremy
- Start date
Please send me a picture of what you are referring to. I will assess the problem and give you a solution.
Hello Junior.
That is not windlace. That is a universal vinyl top molding made up of two parts: the track and the molding. I can see an additional drill hole at the very end where a pop-rivet was holding the molding to prevent it from shrinking. Here are a couple of solutions:
1. You can replace the vinyl molding with new. It may be a bit difficult to find, as vinyl tops have fallen out of favor with the public, but there is some out there somewhere. I would contact Keyston Brothers Fabric (an auto upholstery supply house) and ask them if they have any. If they do not, they may know someone who does. If you go this route, buy more than you need so you do not stretch it when you install it. You will need to heat it up to install it and if you bend it over backwards and roll it on, it should go on easily. If you nick the ends of the track with a diagonal cutter and create some barbs at the ends, you will not need to put rivets through it like it had before. Try to put it all on while warm, and then compress it from end to end so it is a little too big. If you tuck the ends in it should maintain some pressure and avoid shrinking.
2. If you heat the molding up with a heat gun, you may be able to stretch it and then replace the rivet in the end. This is a temporary fix that may last a few years. Option #1 is a better solution.
3. There is an aluminum vinyl top molding that can be shaped carefully to fit your car. It comes in six foot lengths and there is a center cap (stainless steel) to connect the two strips in the center behind the rear window. These strips attach with plastic clips. The clips can be attached with rivets in the same holes as the track used. The front ends can be shaped with a diagonal cutter and a pliers, or may be tucked behind the drop rails (rain gutters).
4. You may be able to find some factory original moldings at a salvage yard and use them. The unknown factor for this choice is that they may not follow the exact line of the aftermarket moldings that you currently have, but they will be shaped to fit your car exactly as the factory designed them to fit.
All this being said, please consider having a professional do this for you. It may save you a lot of money and frustration in the long run. Best of luck. Let me know if you need any help. 360-574-8070 Home or 360-608-4443 cell/text.
That is not windlace. That is a universal vinyl top molding made up of two parts: the track and the molding. I can see an additional drill hole at the very end where a pop-rivet was holding the molding to prevent it from shrinking. Here are a couple of solutions:
1. You can replace the vinyl molding with new. It may be a bit difficult to find, as vinyl tops have fallen out of favor with the public, but there is some out there somewhere. I would contact Keyston Brothers Fabric (an auto upholstery supply house) and ask them if they have any. If they do not, they may know someone who does. If you go this route, buy more than you need so you do not stretch it when you install it. You will need to heat it up to install it and if you bend it over backwards and roll it on, it should go on easily. If you nick the ends of the track with a diagonal cutter and create some barbs at the ends, you will not need to put rivets through it like it had before. Try to put it all on while warm, and then compress it from end to end so it is a little too big. If you tuck the ends in it should maintain some pressure and avoid shrinking.
2. If you heat the molding up with a heat gun, you may be able to stretch it and then replace the rivet in the end. This is a temporary fix that may last a few years. Option #1 is a better solution.
3. There is an aluminum vinyl top molding that can be shaped carefully to fit your car. It comes in six foot lengths and there is a center cap (stainless steel) to connect the two strips in the center behind the rear window. These strips attach with plastic clips. The clips can be attached with rivets in the same holes as the track used. The front ends can be shaped with a diagonal cutter and a pliers, or may be tucked behind the drop rails (rain gutters).
4. You may be able to find some factory original moldings at a salvage yard and use them. The unknown factor for this choice is that they may not follow the exact line of the aftermarket moldings that you currently have, but they will be shaped to fit your car exactly as the factory designed them to fit.
All this being said, please consider having a professional do this for you. It may save you a lot of money and frustration in the long run. Best of luck. Let me know if you need any help. 360-574-8070 Home or 360-608-4443 cell/text.
What you're saying makes perfect sense, it's just been so difficult finding the moulding to buy. The passenger side molding has a nice little finisher piece, which is missing on drivers side, as you can see in pic. I believe a lot of this had been removed and reattached in an attempt to stop water from leaking into trunk. I fixed that. I will do some more specific searches, with info you gave me and try to find new moulding. Thanks, I'll let you know what I find.
I won, l won, l won! I called Keystone, talked to sympathetic but couldn't help dude named Brian. He felt my pain. Gave me two numbers to call, both in CO, but they dealt in "specialty" car stuff. Gave me name of cust svce at BD Co., in Denver. Heather, once I sent her a pic of what I needed sent me a confirmation that it was available. Better than Christmas! Thank you for the suggestion!!