66 Skylark Suspension Upgrade Help


I have a 66 Skylark with original but updated suspension (bushings, mostly). Although the ride is not bad, I'd like to upgrade the suspension to give the car a firmer, more modern feel and improved handling. I won't be racing or canyon-carving; just a little spirited cruising every now and then. Are there any benefits, for my purposes, in installing tubular control arms and drop spindles, along with sway bars and coil-overs? Thanks
I wouldn't add coil overs unless you want it to ride more like a truck, and drop spindles won't help suspension.

The only modes required for excellent handling are the sway bars. They will keep your car flat. Leaving the springs alone will keep a smoother ride. You will have to box your lower control arms (either buy the plate and modify your own or buy aftermarket control arms).
I did mine shortly after purchase with a 1" rear and a 1-1/4" front. The car ride nice and stay flat on any corner.

CLICK HERE for my sway bar install.
Thanks Bob. I'll check the sway bar install. I forgot to mention that the front is riding really high and I want to lower it some.

Thanks Bob. I'll check the sway bar install. I forgot to mention that the front is riding really high and I want to lower it some.
Btw, the car is a convertible so, although I've not checked, I'm hoping the trailing arms in the rear are boxed (same as the frame)
Reflecting on recent project I do think you should remove shocks and check them for fit and performance. Most auto parts have such short warranty, just because car doesnt get driven, shocks can leak from aging and or use. Nitrogen filled are quick response. If anyone has driven cross country, you can see a gust of wind does to your car at highway speeds. Truck shocks I wouldnt shy away. Bilsteins are another great suggestion, and KYBs also. Cant forget GABRIEL still dedicated to our vintage cars.
On my '64 Skylark I used '93 Caprice (B body) spindles which gives you better handling, cop car/taxi brake calipers and pads (bigger surface area), '82 (?) Camaro 1LE rotors (12" brakes with 4 3/4" bolt pattern, Hotchkiss upper control arms, '77 Trans Am sway bar (1 1/4"), '92- '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee fast ratio steering box (same as the GM box but $25 at the salvage yard, not $300. It has the Z cast into the top for ID), boxed rear control arms and 1 1/4" sway bar. Gas shocks. Some adaption with lines, etc you can figure out. There is much info on some of the other Forums that this info is on. It makes a HUGE difference and with GM parts, for the most part, doesn';t cost a fortune.
I went the tubular uppers and lowers route with extended ball joints. The stock spindles are too short so the upper control arm slopes down toward the spindle. This causes the top of your tires to tip outboard when the suspension is compressed. A quick ratio steering box from a Jeep Cherokee makes a big difference in how crisp the steering feels. Get a copy of How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle. Lots of good info. I used Vari-Shocks on all 4 corners, UMI adjustable upper rear axle control arms, UMI front lower control arms, SPC tubular front adjustable upper control arms, Howe extended ball joints, Helwig roll stabilizer bars both front and rear and Currie lower rear axle control arms. I don’t remember what springs I used but they are a little bit stiffer and give me a 2 inch drop. I also triangulated the front frame horns back to the crossmember at the front of the engine. It all seems to work pretty well and is a pleasure to drive.


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