Buick 462 500+ hp build

swebuick455

Member
Hi yall!

I got a '70 Skylark with a '76 455 motor that has been bored .030 over, so I guess that makes it a 462 (some people say 461). Have to mention I'm not so technical on motors or electronics, but I know a bit. I'm out for advice on a "budget" build for my Buick, so around 500 hp+. It has a TH400 (unsure about reinforcement on that). It has some CompCams parts, like a milder cam and pistons.

I want it to sound something like this:

Any advice on what I should get in terms of parts?
 
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Budget, sound is important, I would seriously consider Competition Cams "Thumper" series. They are made to sound good and have improved manners.
-Then a 2500 stall converter and good set of headers and performance exhaust system like a 2.5" or more "American Thunder".
-Tuning is important, the distributor should be tuned ignition improvements considered.
-After that, as budget allows, you can add heads, either upgrading some originals to "Stage One", maybe with some port work, or going with aluminum Edelbrocks or TA Performance's.
-Then have the carburetor, induction system done up to meet the needs of the engine.

The fellow in who uploaded the video mentioned that he had that engine put together by Jim Wiese. Should that be what you want, you can find information CLICK HERE!

 
They all sound nasty with the pipes ending before the back bumper.
The drone while driving has to be horrendous.
Putting tailpipes on it will tone it down some BUT be more pleasurable to drive especially on long distances.
Just my thoughts.

Tom T.
 
How 'bout this (?):

TA_290-08 or TA_290-08HL cam
Stage 2 heads with porting (professionally done)
TA SPX intake manifold
Holley Terminator X with fuel pump kit
Forged pistons and H-beam rods

Need a budget build tho. Is it possible, or am I being stupid/greedy?
 
Budget, sound is important, I would seriously consider Competition Cams "Thumper" series. They are made to sound good and have improved manners.
-Then a 2500 stall converter and good set of headers and performance exhaust system like a 2.5" or more "American Thunder".
-Tuning is important, the distributor should be tuned ignition improvements considered.
-After that, as budget allows, you can add heads, either upgrading some originals to "Stage One", maybe with some port work, or going with aluminum Edelbrocks or TA Performance's.
-Then have the carburetor, induction system done up to meet the needs of the engine.

The fellow in who uploaded the video mentioned that he had that engine put together by Jim Wiese. Should that be what you want, you can find information CLICK HERE!

Can you "upgrade" iron heads to stage 1 ones? Or do they have to be aluminium?
 
Buick never had Aluminum heads. Original Stage I heads were all cast iron. The only real upgrade on them is large valves which can be done to BBB heads. All aftermarket BBB heads are better than OE Buick heads even upgraded.
Nevertheless, I prefer cast iron as a more durable head, and I don't mind loosing:)
 
Buick never had Aluminum heads. Original Stage I heads were all cast iron. The only real upgrade on them is large valves which can be done to BBB heads. All aftermarket BBB heads are better than OE Buick heads even upgraded.
Nevertheless, I prefer cast iron as a more durable head, and I don't mind loosing:)
I have iron ones that's supposed to be "Stage 1-clones".... Not sure what that means, when S1 heads were aluminium ones.
 
Hi yall!

I got a '70 Skylark with a '76 455 motor that has been bored .030 over, so I guess that makes it a 462 (some people say 461). Have to mention I'm not so technical on motors or electronics, but I know a bit. I'm out for advice on a "budget" build for my Buick, so around 500 hp+. It has a TH400 (unsure about reinforcement on that). It has some CompCams parts, like a milder cam and pistons.

I want it to sound something like this:

Any advice on what I should get in terms of parts?
Its possible that you build up the engine to 500 hp+, the transmission may fail or other parts in the driveline because you pushing more and zealous driving. One cheap budget mod is indexing the spark plugs. You use kit with washers to allocate the spark plug to propagate spark at intake vs exhaust or random location like every other car. I'm a fan of NGK plugs. All the other performance stuff needs to be complemented with blueprint rebuild as a whole. What this means is that one component will not give you 500hp+. Additionally, need a good machine shop that will balance the crankshaft for race use(500hp) and not street, and there is a difference in cost and weight balance. Also, there is porting of intake and or heads which matches the flow of intake. Last, loud exhaust is passe'. I see cars frequently going under 50mph sound like they are redlining because the exhaust is so loud(You know these cars, rims cost more than the car).
 
When it comes to power production, there is no comparison between stock iron heads and the TA Performance Stage 1 or 2 SE heads. They will outflow any iron head out of the box, and with just entry level porting, they will flow upwards of 300 CFM on the intake side. If you are on a budget, forget it then. You are looking at about 3000.00 US/pr. Converting stock 455 heads to Stage1 is a waste of money. You are better off using that money to port the small valve heads. Aluminum heads need more static compression though, at least 10:1.
 
You might find a deal on a ported set of iron stage one heads. Lots of people stepped up to the aluminum heads and have an iron set just sitting around. You will easily make 500 HP with a good ported iron stage one head, cam, compression and exhaust combination. I'd sell mine, but they were ported by Gesssler. Since he is gone now, they have a sentimental value to me.
 
You might find a deal on a ported set of iron stage one heads. Lots of people stepped up to the aluminum heads and have an iron set just sitting around. You will easily make 500 HP with a good ported iron stage one head, cam, compression and exhaust combination. I'd sell mine, but they were ported by Gesssler. Since he is gone now, they have a sentimental value to me.
What cam, compression and exhaust do you recommend in that case? Carburetor or EFI? Will a stock TH400 hold up?
 
What cam, compression and exhaust do you recommend in that case? Carburetor or EFI? Will a stock TH400 hold up?
The stock 455 rods are forged. They are capable of 600+ HP and 6000+ rpms with a resize and ARP bolts.

EFI would be nice, but budget friendly is a used 850 cfm Holley or similar sized Quadrajet on a used TA intake.

The iron head in 76 were open chambered. Check your casting numbers. These were not performance oriented and prevented higher compression ratios. A set of heads from 1974 or earlier will have smaller chambers and will provide performance if ported. The aluminum aftermarket heads are a better option, but are not budget friendly as mentioned earlier.

I like something similar to the TA 288-98H for your combination thus far. It will have enough vacuum to run your power brakes and has a split pattern that favors iron heads. You can also get away with stock rockers although they recommend the TA roller rockers. Aftermarket springs will be necessary and the slight stall transmission converter recommended will still have descent street manners. At least 9.5:1 static compression is recommended to make use of this cam, but 10:1 is probably better if you can swing it. You would have to run the combo through the dynamic compression calculator to get an idea of the optimum static compression ratio for this combination.

Headers are the best way to get the increased flow of air out and away from the engine with less restriction. There are ported exhaust manifold, but they are less efficient and can be unfriendly to a budget. Huge headers in this case would be a mistake and hurt the scavenging effect. I'd look for a used set of 1 7/8" headers that have been ceramic coated. These tend to have more then one life in them. Beyond that, at least 2.5" exhaust system will be needed in your case. An X or H in the exhaust can be helpful, but not necessary on a budget.

You will also need to consider your rear gear. A 3.08 would be the lowest ratio that would take advantage of your combination, but a higher ratio would have a more positive impact on performance. You would have to decide how muck RPM is acceptable at highway speed and make a compromise. I know 4.11 gears were not fun to cruise on the highway for sure.
 
How bout forged rods? I got Egge pistons. I think they're forged ones, but I read they're like crap.
Do not buy any parts until you do your research. There are custom pistons available from Diamond and Autotec. They will allow you to build a zero deck engine. There are drop in forged rods to allow you to build a 470 or 482.




 
The stock 455 rods are forged. They are capable of 600+ HP and 6000+ rpms with a resize and ARP bolts.

EFI would be nice, but budget friendly is a used 850 cfm Holley or similar sized Quadrajet on a used TA intake.

The iron head in 76 were open chambered. Check your casting numbers. These were not performance oriented and prevented higher compression ratios. A set of heads from 1974 or earlier will have smaller chambers and will provide performance if ported. The aluminum aftermarket heads are a better option, but are not budget friendly as mentioned earlier.

I like something similar to the TA 288-98H for your combination thus far. It will have enough vacuum to run your power brakes and has a split pattern that favors iron heads. You can also get away with stock rockers although they recommend the TA roller rockers. Aftermarket springs will be necessary and the slight stall transmission converter recommended will still have descent street manners. At least 9.5:1 static compression is recommended to make use of this cam, but 10:1 is probably better if you can swing it. You would have to run the combo through the dynamic compression calculator to get an idea of the optimum static compression ratio for this combination.

Headers are the best way to get the increased flow of air out and away from the engine with less restriction. There are ported exhaust manifold, but they are less efficient and can be unfriendly to a budget. Huge headers in this case would be a mistake and hurt the scavenging effect. I'd look for a used set of 1 7/8" headers that have been ceramic coated. These tend to have more then one life in them. Beyond that, at least 2.5" exhaust system will be needed in your case. An X or H in the exhaust can be helpful, but not necessary on a budget.

You will also need to consider your rear gear. A 3.08 would be the lowest ratio that would take advantage of your combination, but a higher ratio would have a more positive impact on performance. You would have to decide how muck RPM is acceptable at highway speed and make a compromise. I know 4.11 gears were not fun to cruise on the highway for sure.
This is the casting number on my iron heads (see image). A bit hard to read tho... I think it says either:
1243922 .... or 1248922
 

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