430 Distributor

[Pinky1492]

Hows it going guys, I'm new to this forum. I have a 1967 Buick Riviera with a 430 Big Block in it that wont start. I've done all of my maintenance and fixed my wiring that I found out of whack and spliced since I bought it from someone that had it sitting in a field, found that someone had messed with the wiring. Changed almost everything to ignition system, installed new battery and after a few other repairs I got the car to at least crank but still not getting any spark from my my spark plugs (which are brand new and gapped). Only thing I havent changed out is my distributor. Havent been able to find anyone that sells them brand new, only remanufactured which isnt an issue, but dont want to buy a new distributor if it doesnt need it. Just want to make sure I've checked all possible issues for the engine to not start. Any advice on where I should check before buying a distributor that might not even be necessary? Or any tests to check if my distributor is still good or faulty?

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[oldfoneguy]

Welcome.
With the key in the run position check for voltage on the positive side of the coil. If it's not there you'll have to trace out the circuit to find the problem. Ignition switch on the dash could be bad. Coil could be bad. Did you replace the condenser, points and gap them?
Check the reference section of the forum. The entire 67 factory shop manual is on there and it can be a huge help tracing out the wiring.

[Pinky1492]

Thanks I'll definitely check that. Yes I did, I changed everything on top of the distributor and the condenser. I'm having some trouble finding the 67 shop manual though. Cant find the reference section

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[oldfoneguy]

The bar at the top just below team Buick toward the middle of the page click the reference tab.
Click on the 67 box. When the page opens it's to the left under the Electra nose.
Look over the whole 67 page when you get a chance tons of great info.

[Pinky1492]

Thank you. I had to use the Full Site online, that's why I was having an issue finding it. I have the cell phone app on my phone which is how I am on this forum. But now I know I'll need to see it through the desktop verson

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[oldfoneguy]

No problem. Good luck let us know how it works out for you.

[Pinky1492]

Will do!

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[LARRY70GS]

There are a number of ways to no spark with points. None of the leads can contact the base plate as that is ground. You must also set the point gap as new points are not preset. Get the rubbing block up on one of the cam points. Close the adjustment until the points just close, then back 1/2 turn. That should start the engine. Finish the adjustment with a dwell meter.

[bob k. mando]

just for trouble shooting, you can plop in a 1974-76 HEI distributor from a Buick 455ci
OR
you can use an HEI from a 1974-81 Buick 350ci, with the caveat that you have to swap the gear at the bottom of the shaft.

[Bob]

First checks most people do in the field is spark test at the plug wire lead, hold it about 1/4" away from anything on the engine and see if you have a spark that jumps to ground. If not, you can move to either the coil and do the same test with the coil lead. If that fails to spark, move to the points, is there a spark there.

No spark there, as mentioned previously, check voltage to the coil with an ohm meter. It should be checked with the key on and again in the start position. In the start position it should have a full 12v, in the run, it should have a reduced voltage. If no power, stop and repair! If there was power, with an ohm meter check for continuity between the negative of the coil and the points. All in order there, and no spark at the points, change the condenser/capacitor.

If there was spark at the points all along and no spark at the coil lead and 12v to the coil, change the coil.
If there was spark at the points, and spark at the coil, but none or intermittent at the plug wires look at the cap or rotor for cracks or carbon tracking. Clean or replace the cap and rotor.

When checking the secondary system, you can also have a bad coil to cap wire.