here are some pics i just took. with the switch on, i'm getting power all the way up to the switch via the white w/black stripe wire but still no break light....
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awww please dont go too bad into me, i work on multi-million dollar aircraft engines, not wiring, lol. i will give this a try now. if possible, i'm mre than willin to im anyone my cell number if u care to text or call me with step by steps. i'm going to work on this til i fix it, i have no choice!!Originally Posted by raycow
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here are some pics i just took. with the switch on, i'm getting power all the way up to the switch via the white w/black stripe wire but still no break light....
I am sure you are aware there is a '66 chassis manual in the Reference section with wiring diagrams if you don't have them already:
http://www.teambuick.com/reference/l...20-i-color.pdf
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yes, i've been through it forwards and and back, and can't seem to understand why i have no brake lights. I'm completely stumped!!!
I spoke with my electrical co-workers
JACKPOT!
they should be able to source a 12v supply for you. you can also use an auto battery charger ( the nice thing here is that it comes equipped with large gator clips ) or you can gerry rig a computer power supply ( PSU's have +12v and +5v outputs, you just need a wiring diagram to decode the outputs )
electrical circuits are very basic. it's only the fact that you can be dealing with dozens of different circuits and wiring loops at the same time that makes it complicated.
1 - you've got to have a current source.
2 - you need a load ( performs work, in this case your bulb ).
3 - you've got to have a current sink.
if you can break things down into small steps and segments pretty much anyone should be able to solve an electrical problem. you try to start with the whole rat's nest wiring harness from the get go and you're going to want to smash your face in.
first, establish a test fixture for the bulbs. that means, a known good socket connected to a known good 12v power source, + and -.
test your bulbs.
once you have several known good bulbs, take them to the car and install them in the sockets on the car.
apply your known good voltage to the socket. you can either cut the wires ( be prepared to solder / heat shrink them back together ) or there are trick clips you can get which are pins that you can pierce the insulation with and make a connection that way. or you can get a set of picks, use them to punch the insulation and use the gator clips to put voltage to the circuit that way.
http://www.sears.com/skill-tech-4-pc...3&blockType=G3
work your way forward through the wiring harness to the dash, fixing any sockets or plugs that are bad. if you chase the circuit all the way to the brake switch ( on the brake pedal ) then either the switch is bad OR you aren't getting voltage to the switch from the fuse panel.
Could it really be true that the brand new switch i bought, be bad due to the brake lights not coming on?
you should be able to pull the switch out and test resistance / continuity for the pinouts with it out of the car.
And i can't return the switch cause i had to cut the end leads cause the connector was diffrent from my car's connector. (the switch came with the "U" shaped conector and my car had the 3 on top of 2 on top of 1 style connector) i made sure the wires were connected properly.
you may want to triple check your wiring connections to the switch since you've had to gerry rig the switch harness.
The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
Vladimir Lenin
Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)
i'm getting power all the way up to the switch via the white w/black stripe wire but still no break light....
and can't seem to understand why i have no brake lights. I'm completely stumped!!!
the white / black stripe wire comes from the switch on the brake pedal? jumper past the turn signal switch.
you've got constant +12v on the purple wire while the ign switch is on?
The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
Vladimir Lenin
Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)
Member
The Blue wire on the stop switch is the wire that has power ONCE the ignition is turned on. It goes through the stop switch (once the brakes are pressed) to allow power to then transfer through the white wire, through the connector, up to the turn switch. From there, i do not know which wire suplies the power to the tail lights for them to operate once the brakes are applied. As i stated before, i have park/running lights and turn signal, but no brake lights...
Senior Member
You may have a couple of problems here.
On the pic of the switch, you are probing a white wire with a black stripe. Unfortunately, the stock wiring harness doesn't use a wire of that color for either turn signals or brake lights. Does your car have cornering lights? A white wire with a black stripe is used for the cornering lights on cars which are so equipped, but I'm not expecting it to be used for the brake lights.
The pic does appear to show a white wire at the right side of the switch, but I can't see if it is connected to a switch terminal or to the mounting plate. Can you tell me which it is?
On the other pic, I can't see at all what you are working on. Is this the junction where the car harness connects to the switch wires? If yes, and if the switch wires are different colors from the car harness, how did you know which wire to connect where?
More questions: Does the new switch have any unused wires? In other words, are there more wires on the switch than on the original switch or steering column connector? Did the switch come with an instruction sheet or diagram showing what each wire was to be used for?
Here is a list of the stock wire colors in the harness and what they are supposed to be connected to. If the switch came with a diagram, can you determine if it is wired in accordance with this list? I realize that the switch wire colors might be different from these, but at this point I am asking only about the wire functions. For example, if the switch has a wire identified as "Left front", it should be connected to the light blue wire in the harness, no matter what color that switch wire is.
Light Blue - Left front lamp
Dark Blue - Right front lamp
Yellow - Left rear lamp
Dark Green - Right rear lamp
Purple - Turn signal flasher
White - Brake light switch
Ray
Last edited by raycow; 08-07-2012 at 10:34 PM.
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(1).bmp The new harness (i put the connectors on the end just for troubleshooting
(2).bmp The old harness
(3).bmp Here's the connector end from the new harness that i cut off to fit for my vehicle harness
(4).bmp My vehicle harness .
(5).bmp Here the splices that were connected to my old switch. All i did was snip the ends and connected my new switch the exact same way.
Senior Member
Please check your PM.
Ray
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