From the Reference Section:
- Musclecar Enthusiast March 06 - the Jim Burek 350 porting article
- Ancient mid 12's secrets for your Buick *350*
- Poston Camshafts, Buick 350
    - 350 casting Numbers
- Buick 350 Drag Strip Tests from Kenne-Bell
- 350 Engine Specifications
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Thread: 1972 350 no power after rebuild

  1. #11

    Cam timing

    I don't think it was degreed! But I will be checking it in the spring.

  2. #12

    350 cam degree checking

    From my experience the running symptoms you describe could be caused by a cam that is 1 tooth off. Mis-marked or hard to decipher timing marks on gears can create issues.

    Unless you are creating a race engine and need to know exactly where your cam is a simple easy check for you is to remove the valve cover on #1 cylinder side and the spark plug from #1 cylinder. Turn the engine over by hand with someone holding a long screwdriver through the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at top dead center and the timing mark is aligned with the pointer.

    If the timing mark on the front dampner has slipped you should be able to get a rough idea by rocking the engine back and forth to determine it, but it must be aligned with the pointer when the piston is at top dead center or you ignition timing cannot be set correctly.

    At top dead center of the firing stroke both valves will be closed completely, even if the valve timing is off. Rotate the engine so it is on the overlap stroke. Both valves should be slightly open, one is closing and the other is opening. If they are not visually equal when the piston is at top dead center and the timing mark is aligned the camshaft is out of time.

    If they are both open the same amount your problem is somewhere else.

    Lyle Haley

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    450
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    Old thread alert!

  4. #14

    this mike u have a lot of low build no. cars if u r looking 4 any more i have

    Quote Originally Posted by Troys69GS View Post
    I also agree with timing concerns. What compression and fuel are you using? What is the stall speed of the converter? Just a few questions to ask yourself. I personally do not like our buick 350s but Ive been spoiled with a neutered 350 in high school, bumped to 400 then Gforced in the 455. Never go back.
    1 of 174 1970 350 sp ING. 3 speed on the floor and 1 of 1 1969 400 stage 1

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Indianapol
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    no power

    How did it run before? You went .030 over, good, leveled heads good, lined honed good if you have .002 clearence on all bearings, I checked that cam from TA and it's not much over stock' what is Fat pistons, is that Stock 72 or 1970 stock 10.1 compression?, 600 carb, no way, put a 800 Quadrajet or bigger carb on it, 4.10 rear end great, 3000 stall or bigger, roller rockers if you can afford it, Fuel delivery is the key but what I have found if you punch the throttle and it runs hard and then lets up you are not filling up the carb fast enough. It will actually fall on it's face after the rpms get up about 4000 in 2nd gear. I have taked to Fred Catlin about the cams from Ta and he said the profile on the lobe might not be right to give the most power so thats why he said to call the other cam manufactures and tell them what you want. A bigger carb might fix it but definatly degee the cam per the cam card cause even though you are getting a cam from a buick parts supplier the grind might be a couple of degrees off. I know cause I degreed all my cams an none of them are heads up. I have a stock block 455 in a 3500lb gs and it runs 10s in the 1/4. Let me know what makes it run better. thanks, Ron Butz of Big Butz Racing.com

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    28
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    0

    I'm no expert !!

    I'm certainly no expert here, but wonder if it's just not getting enoght fuel at the higher RPMs. I had a similar problem with the 409 in my 62 BelAir, no power above 3000 RPMs. Found out the fuel pump was not working correctly at the higher RPMs to keep the motor going. Replaced the fuel pump with an electric and wow !!! She no race car, but will turn 14's at 100 MPH in the quarters and still picking up speed.

    Just a thought from the PeaNut gallary..

    Bill
    Tanks

    Nuts

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by ferrarif18 View Post
    Hi I'm new to this form and to Buick's. I'm helping a my best friends dad with his 1972 Skylark 350. He had the engine rebuilt and the pain begins. This engine has no power beyond 3300-3500 rpm has no HP at all! I have idling good seems to run fine but gives you nothing when you get on it here is a list of stuff that has been done to this engine.

    1. Heads where mild .0010? not sure but they where done
    2. Bored 0030 over
    3. line honed
    4. reconditioned crank
    5. TA C110 cam
    6. TA stage1 intake
    7. TA stage valve springs
    8. New fat pistons
    9. 600 Edelbrock
    10. the engine is bolted to a 200r4 and has 4.11 rear end

    Help this thing really blows
    check the exuast, 70's Buicks have a reputation of the inner exaust pipes collapsing, pipes look fine from
    the outside but one of the inside layers close up, if it's the case you would not be the first guy to rebuild
    an engine for a bad exaust pipe, easy check is to run without exaust, good luck

  8. #18

    Buick 350

    Quote Originally Posted by Troys69GS View Post
    I also agree with timing concerns. What compression and fuel are you using? What is the stall speed of the converter? Just a few questions to ask yourself. I personally do not like our Buick 350s but Ive been spoiled with a neutered 350 in high school, bumped to 400 then Gforced in the 455. Never go back.
    My71 has a 350,it was a Skylark convertible and now a nice GS clone. It was bought by my family new and has 400,000+ miles on it . When I restored it I should have 455ed it but it was a driver of 1500 miles a week. However it turned out to nice to be a road rat. Since, there was too many unnecessary changes to switch over then it remained a 350.... BUT This cars exhaust sound at idle will give you an erection. Buick 350 punched out, HEI ignition, custom ground and degreed cam, TA Stage 1 intake, headers, no vacuum advance to prevent detonation, 700r4 tranny (don't forget the custom 3000RPM stall converter to compensate for the the 700r4 adapter plate.) Presently 325 gear Ford 9 in rear for driving, switching too something else 411???? What you guys think? When I did this in 1992 you couldn't get all the aftermarket stuff you can today. Anyway , this 350 will boil the skins and has ***** to the walls......I rarely drive it now , but when I do you know.
    Last edited by Corntruckdriver; 08-05-2012 at 09:03 AM.

  9. #19
    how far did you bore it out? still stock stroke?
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  10. #20

    hot 350

    Quote Originally Posted by bob k. mando View Post
    how far did you bore it out? still stock stroke?
    I think it is 30 over but it was rebuilt a couple of times. Still stock stroke and crank. It also has heads off of a 1970 GS that said HIGH COMPRESSION on the air cleaner. Its been a long time and getting hazy. There also seems to be a lot less room in the car with the stock buckets than the armrest bench it came with. I even moved it back a couple inches. What do you think of 4:11 gears with the 4 speed auto with overdrive and the lower first? I need new tires, mine are old enough to drink, but being inside all the time they look OK . Also looking for new rally wheels. They never have 4 in stock. They are plenty good to sit in the garage though......

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