HEI problems

[sicksteve]

I have a '73 Boatttail, '76 and '63 Rivieras.

I was working on the '76 HEI, which worked perfectly before added
some new parts: All Accel-35367 high-current module, Brute Force in-
cap Coil, cap&rotor, 300+ low resistance wires, regapped 0.070"
Autolite R45TS plugs. It also has a redtop Optima battery.

When I tried to start the car, after trickle charging the battery, it barely turned over and wouldn't start. I added some fuel to the carb, tried again and the
starter started groaning, and i waited a few minutes before trying
again.Finally the starter/solenoid died in a ghastly groan. The interior lights
and accessories work fine,so the fusible links and ign. switch should
be fine.

I'm ordering a 9202 high-torque POWERMASTER starter/sloenoid, which i
also put on the '73 Boattail after serious heat soak failure. In
the '73, It starts MUCH better.

I called Accel, and they said they would send me a new 35367 ign.
module.In my '74 Buick service manual, it shows one of the ign.
module attachment screws being a ground. I grounded this screw to a
known good scrapped-clean engine ground.Of course, i can't try to
start it until I get the new starter/solenoid.

What could be the problem with the '76 HEI????

[bobc455]

0.070" is a big gap - how did you figure to use that gap?

What is your initial timing?

Could the cylinders be hydrolocked?

-Bob Cunningham

[rcull]

Being as you did it all at once and the engine never turned over properly since, perhaps you should replace the Optima battery with a known serviceable battery and check your battery connections at both ends.

[sicksteve]

0.070" is a big gap - how did you figure to use that gap?

What is your initial timing?

Could the cylinders be hydrolocked?

-Bob Cunningham

Since I'm using a high-current Accel 35367 ign module (cost me $70 through Summit!) and a "brute Force" 47,000V in-cap coil(the most for and in-cap variety), the ignition system shoud produce a hotter spark. And according to Jacob's Electronics, the plugs will have to be regapped to get the benefits of a more powerful spark. The '76 manual states the original HEI plugs should be gapped at 0.060". 0.080" is not unheard of. So,I started out at 0.070"

I'm also adding a jacobs spark amplifier box

[sicksteve]

Being as you did it all at once and the engine never turned over properly since, perhaps you should replace the Optima battery with a known serviceable battery and check your battery connections at both ends.

The batteryis fine, It register 14.2 volts, and all the lights and accessories work with the ign switch. The fusible links are also Okay.

I am frustrated.

Should I replace that capacitor and wiring harness to the module, likw I saw on a BUICK HEI rebuild site?

[rcull]

You didn't say you cleaned your connections.

Poor grounds can allow all low draw accessories to work fine, but when a high draw like you starter pulls the connection fails.

Did you try jumping it with a second battery? If it is successful it is also and indicator of a bad connection.

[bobc455]

Yeah, keep an eye on voltage while cranking.

You don't mention your initial timing- too much timing advance will prohibit the engine from craking properly.

And I'm assuming the engine isn't flooded.

-Bob C.

[sicksteve]

You didn't say you cleaned your connections.

Poor grounds can allow all low draw accessories to work fine, but when a high draw like you starter pulls the connection fails.

Did you try jumping it with a second battery? If it is successful it is also and indicator of a bad connection.

I installed new platinum battery side connection terminals with new 1/0 Stinger battery cable.Plus the body, engine and engine-to-chassis cables were all replaced with, again,over-kill 1/0 gauge wire. The Optima battery is always automatically trickle charged

One thing I've noticed with this car is that the carb runs lean. The previous owner and I got a new choke. But beffore, it needed a few starting attempts to keep it running and a longer warm-up time. then everything was Purrfect.

I'm even thinking of replacing the original HEI components, which, although showing signs of age, worked well.Either that or another new billet,electronic distributor.

12 Degrees BTDC timing seems a bit high to me, but that's in my '76 manual. '74 say 4 degrees for stock 455, 10 for stage1 455.

[sicksteve]

I'm really frustrated on this '76 HEI ignition thing; so I'm going to work on my '73 Boattail, which has a coolant leak through the thermostat gasket and waterpump.

I just bought all new gates hoses and belts, which I'll have to remove anyway to get to the waterpump.

I was planning to install an Accel 71105E electronic distributor with an Accel Ultra Coil in the '73, but it will have to wait. I'm getting frustrated

[sicksteve]

0.070" is a big gap - how did you figure to use that gap?

What is your initial timing?

Could the cylinders be hydrolocked?

-Bob Cunningham

what is "hydrolocked"?

Oh, and the sticker under the hood states 12 degreees BTDC is stock for 455 (Riviera). That seems high to me since in '74 Buick stated 4 and 10 degrees for 455 stock and 455 stage1