63 skylark single to dual master conversion

So, you can see in this image the front fluid line goes to OEM distribution block for left and right front. The rear output on the distribution block a plug was added. They added a single for the switch to the rear.

That proportioning valve on the bottom is going to the rear cylinders. From my observation there is a lot of hard marketing to sell it. One of the main manufacturers of this proportioning valve recommends it for vehicles that have disc/drum, different sized wheels and any other modifications to the brake system. I absolutely don't like the knob design its way to accessible to turn it. I'd prefer a more professional set it and forget it design like double nuts.
Per forums' discussions drum/drum single to dual master cylinder conversions a proportioning valve is not needed. In respect that the front and rear wheel cylinders brake system was designed with ~60% 40%.
 
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Can anyone provide pics on their single to dual master cylinder conversion? I'm looking to see clearance at the frame and what was done about the brake lamp switch. Possibly, if someone can describe pedal feel before and after conversion. Size of piston, etc.
My ‘66 Skylark single to dual master cylinder conversion, straight swap in other than altering the length of the push-rod
 

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I want to add a booster like you have because it angles the setup to clear the chassis. Then I won't need to cut or reinforce the chassis for the mod.
 
My ‘66 Skylark single to dual master cylinder conversion, straight swap in other than altering the length of the push-rod
Kiwijeff did you need any other components no valves such as residual or proportional ?
 
I have seen the statement on various other forums with DIY conversions that vehicles on the older vehicles with drums usually have smaller wheel cylinders in the rear in respect to the front and residual/proportional not needed. So, if "myth busters" did a comparison with and without a residual/proportional valve fitted it could reduce the sale of this item if it turns out to be not needed. One thing for sure someone is making $$$ selling these valves.

I'm in the middle of a conversion and the bottom master cylinder holding studs were too short. So, I pulled out the support, drilled and have put in longer studs. But, if you look at the conversion @Mikethemechanic123 did it was not needed.
:LOL:

No, I'm sure he replaced the studs. I'm grateful @Mikethemechanic123 showed his conversion.
 
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