Most people seem to convert to a 4-link. You can adapt pretty much any rear you like to it. Probably the easiest would be any GM already set up for it.
Junior Member
Need information on what differential to use in a 1953 Buick Special Convertible. The new power plant is a Corvette 350 with a 400 Turbo transmission. The DRIVE TUBE doesn't appear to be the best way to move that power to the rear end.
I look forward to all the input you can give.
Arizona Special
Most people seem to convert to a 4-link. You can adapt pretty much any rear you like to it. Probably the easiest would be any GM already set up for it.
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Junior Member
Be patient here, what do you mean " a 4 link", and is the width of the rear axel on the GM products the same as my 53 Special?
Thanks.
Senior Member
Larry, Will you be getting rid of your 53 rear end? I'm hunting for one. Thanks ~Tbone~
Junior Member
Yes, I probably will if it doesn't work behind the power plant and transmission being planned. Also, I have a 53 4 door Special as a parts car, and the rear end is still under it. I bought it on e bay just about 10 days ago.
Junior Member
T-bone, let me know where you live and if I can't use it, we can talk more.
Senior Member
Thanks Larry, I sent you a email. ~T~
Junior Member
I was doing some research in the same subject and found that third deneration GM F-bodies(camaros and firebirds) use a coil spring rear suspension similar to the old Buick design and uses whats called a tourque arem that runs above the open drive shaft to stabalize the rear, I would thin a 80's Camaro or Firebird rear would be a reasonably priced junkyard item.
By far, in my belief, the rear from a '61-'65 full size Buick or Riv. will be the easiest swap. There are some advantages & some disadvantages. If you put both cars on a lift you will see that the frames of the cars are darn close to the same if not the same. Measure the width of your existing rear backing plate to backing plate. You would take all your measurements & cut off all the brackets & whatnot from the donor & weld them to your frame. This now gives you an already enginered rear suspension designed for a big car. You retain the 12" brakes & e-brake set-ups. Front & rear brakes are an easy upgrade to more modern drums by using the finned alumuinum counterparts from the '61-'70 models. If you really want to get fussy & keep the left side/left hand thread wheel studs you have '61-'63. Down side, since these rears are somewhat bullet proof some parts are hard to come by. A 9" Ford has 10" rear brakes with an 11" upgrade or discs, which costs $$$$$. A GM A-Body or F-Body rears have 9 1/2" brakes & can be upgraded to 11" or discs, again $$$$$$. I've seen many different set-ups. Some are enginered good, most are dangerous at best. Smaller brakes on a car that originally came with 12" brakes in my book is foulish. Go to the salvage yard & have them cut out the rear of the car, frame & all, as far forward as where the e-brake stuff is, or buy a donor car.
Just my thoughts,
Tom Telesco
Senior Member
I agree with Tom I found a 1962 Buick Electra on Ebay for $791.00 then sold a lot of the parts for over $1,500.00 keeping the rear end, engine and frame. The floor pan on my 53 is a little rusty so I might just use the one from the 62 if I can figure out how to keep the 53 seats.
Jim Carmichael 55 Buick Special & 65 Buick Riviera GS
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