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Thread: Nailhead Lifter Noise

  1. #21

    Crud

    You are on the right track,cleaning the rocker shaft and the oil gallery to the top but if you do not drop the pan and clean out the CRUD and the oil pickup screen you wasted your time

  2. #22
    sergio Guest

    oil pan removal

    FYI, It is rather easy to drop the oil pan on our nailheads. On my '63. I had to drop the center link and lift the engine just a tad. The oil pan came right out. Mine had a little crud but not much to be of any serious concern. This allowed me to clean all the nooks and crannies of the heads, and lifter valley without worrying about dropping anything dangerous into the oil pan. I am sure that your oil pan gasket needs replacing. Northwest Speed Equipment out of Oregon carries an upgraded oil pan gasket that will outlast cork anytime. Once you have all of these loose parts (oil pan, valve covers, lifter valley cover) get them powdercoated!
    Sergio

  3. #23
    Thanks for you advice Robert. The more I get into this, the more I realize dropping the pan is necessary. Sergio, remember, I am a novice. What is involved with "lift the engine just a tad"? What needs to come loose, and what would be the best way to "lift" the engine? I plan on spending some time on this over the long weekend.

  4. #24

    Lifter Noise Quest

    I have removed the intake manifold, on my way to the valley cover. I discovered that someone had siliconed shut the exhaust port (in the intake manifold) used to heat the carburator. I realize this has a functional relationship to the exhaust pipe heat valve. Is there a good reason that this was done, or should I open it back up?

  5. #25
    rider Guest

    Lifter noise and crud problems

    Now that you have the intake manifold off, look down the intake ports and see if they are clear. The back side of the valves used to get coated with carbon and oil residue. Look at the exhaust valves to get an idea what they should look like. If they are all plugged up, you are going to have to do a valve job. As far as the valve seals go, Buick started having some problems with oil smoke about 64 or 65. They came up with a rubber (neoprene?) washer-like seal that was installed by removing the rocker arms and putting the seals on the intake valve ends. No removal of the valve springs. They seemed to work well. I don't know if they are still available. Also, you mentioned 2 of the oil supply holes to the rocker arms were plugged. All the nailhead heads are interchangable from right to left. The holes if the rear of the heads are not used when installed.
    Good luck,
    Walt

  6. #26
    rider Guest

    Exhaust passages

    I forgot about the passages you said were blocked with silicone. From your discription of your acctivities with the car, I would leave them plugged the way they are. They were put in to send heat to the carb in cold weather to prevent iceing of the carb. Even if you drive in the winter just keep thr engine running with the throttle for a little while before taking off.
    Good luck,
    Walt

  7. #27
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    This has turned out to be a very interesting topic. Lots of good general info as well as good specifc-to-nailhead items. Does anyone know if the 65-66 valve seals mentioned will fit the 56 head? Anyone have a part number, or source? Thanks

  8. #28
    Rider, excellent information. I suspected I did not need the extra heat to the carb since I do not drive it during winter months. I will check out the valves as you have suggested. Mottrodder, I am very pleased with this thread. As a novice I am often left clueless when reading other threads without the mechanical background. I hope to keep this going through my process; to my benefit as well as others. I truely appreciate everyone's input and hope you all stay with me. Given the fact my new garage is not yet heated, and my limited free time, I am afraid this will drag out over time.

  9. #29
    Well I haven't given up. Since my garage is not heated, I have not been working on the engine. I have the rocker arm assembly in the shop, in the warm basement. I have debated whether to completely disassemble it, but I am not sure I can justfy that right now. Since this is a temporary stop gap measure, I don't see the need since I feel it is very clean, although one can't see in all the passages. I have been painting the intake manifold and valve covers with POR-15 Buick Green. I know someone mentioned powder coating, but until I do the real deal on the engine, this will suffice. The POR-15 looks very good, it's those dang halucinations after breathing it for an hour, that I can do without . I filled the intake manifold exhaust ports at the base of the carb with ground down bolt heads secured with hi temp liquid steel. The bolt heads are such that even if the liquid steel failed, they won't go anywhere. After filling the depression with liquid steel and letting it cure, I carefully filed the surface flat. The manifold is done. If it would warm up a little bit, I would start cleaning up the other side of the engine. And then remove the valley cover. How much trouble should I expect with removing the lifters?

    I recieved the valve seals that I ordered. With a little research I think I found information that the valve seals were an early Buick retrofit to correct oil consumption problems. These don't just fit on top of the valve but appear to require removal of the valve springs. Anyone have experience with these? I have not found any reference to how they are installed. Do they just go on the intake valves?

    I have been sidetracked by working on my Carter AFB carb. If you haven't noticed, you might want to check it out in Shop Talk and offer any help you can. I need it.

  10. #30

    Question 425 Valve Seals

    This question probably got lost in all the posts. I ordered valve seals from CARS, and received them. There seamed to be some question about whether 64 425 nailheads should have valve seals, but they appear to be available and there seems to be some information that they are retro fits. Since they seem to be somewhat of a mystery, and I have no experience installing them, can anyone tell the proper way and placement of them?

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