Lowering a 56

[powerage]

Hi all
Takin the body off the chassis over Xmas on my 56 Century, figure this is a good time to lower it. Any one had experience with this? Is getting shorter springs enough? I wanna get a real taildragger look happening, withot airbags. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

[powerage]

without airbags

[Judd]

Fatman sells drop spindles for the front.

[Zachs55special]

Regardless of your lowering technique, you should have the car completely assembled when changing springs,etc. The reason for this is simple-if you make changes to a frame with no body on it, and judge those changes based on the height of the frame minus the body, you will get erroneous results-because the weight of the body must be taken into account when making ride height changes. Ya dig? ---Zach.

[Tom Gallagher]

[img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img] Hey, JUDD!

Did You use those Spindles from Fat Man?

I have been told to stay away from them. Fat Man's Spindles are for Looks and Show ONLY!
I have heard that they are NOT Safe and Failure Rate under normal/ordinary driving conditions is very high.
Braking on a downgrade with a Mid-50's Buick is tough enough without throwing a wheel.

To be Forewarned is to be forearmed

One Fellow said Fatman is Fat because he is Full of "Donkey Dust" LOL only He used another Familiar Phrase.

[img]graemlins/shield.gif[/img] Tom Gallagher [img]graemlins/shield.gif[/img]

[Tom Gallagher]

[img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img] Hey Guy's

I think the Safest thing to do would be to take the car to a reputable spring Vendor supplier who would know how to properly cut a spring to the correct height as to not heat the metal up to a point where the Tempor is Taken out and changes the tensel strenght which will create metal fatigue. [img]graemlins/clonk.gif[/img]
It will change the ride. You may also have to install different shock that compensate for a shorter throw. [img]graemlins/smash.gif[/img]
I really don't know, I haven't attempted anything like this, but I think I my want to drop my car about 2 inchs. I'm just playing "Devil's Advocate" here looking at the possible problems.

Maybe there is a Member how has actually performed this type of Modification and has experienced good results.

I'm sure there must be some safety and handeling issues

Also, I have found a guy who makes Heavy Duty Torsion Bars for 54-56 Buicks. Maybe that is something that is needed to compensate to correct some of these short-comings.

I don't Know this for fact, but You have to look at all the options.

I'm interested in the Subject and I'm open to all/any Knowledge/Opinions

Regards,

Tom Gallagher [img]graemlins/shield.gif[/img]

[bluewhale13]

I've dropped numerous old cars Buicks, Chevys , etc. 2 of the biggest things you have to be concerned about is when dropping the car the spring rate and the pinion angle. I've had mixed results with Fatman's products. If you cut the springs you'll alter both the suspension geometry and their ablitity to function as designed. What I like to do is pretty extensive, but it lowers the car and it maintains the full suspension travel. I actually cut out and raise the entire front suspension crossmembers and all higher above the frame and then fabricate the parts necessary to make up the differnce. If you decide on just changing or altering the coils I would contact either Eaton Spring or Atlas Spring here in Wichita and have them custom wind you a set of springs. That way you get your drop, but you don't sacrifice as much as you do when you start cutting coils. The big concern with the rear axle is maintaining the correct pinion angle once the drop is complete. With an open driveline it's easier, but it can be done to an inclosed driveline. The biggest factor in this is that between the angle on the output of the trans and the angle of the rear pinion must be exactly 45 degrees when combined. There are people out there that think you can get away with it in an enclosed situation, but I feel it's better to keep it right than to just have it look right. The easiest way on the rear axle to do this is to bend the torque tube stabilizer bars to the angle you need to alter the pinion adjustment.

[Tom Gallagher]

[img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img] Hey, Arron !

How Ya' Doin'!?

How is Your Manifold Design Project coming along?

Thanks for yor Response and for Forwarding Your Sound Practical Experience!

From What You have just told us Everything Makes Sense, and put any question we might have in the proper perspective. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

You are absolutely correct when You suggested to keep it right, rather than have it LQQK Right.

If it ain't broke Don't Fix It.

Our Mid-50's Buicks were never designed for Radial Tires or Gas Shocks, but most of us have them on Our Vehicles.
I think that's a far enough streach. I fact when I canvassed a dozen vendoes/suppliers none of them had Oil Shocks. I could get front shock but not rears. I thought it was safer to get a matched set, so I went with the gas.

What is Your Opinion regarding the Heavy Duty Torsion Bars? Is it a worthwhile upgrade? Will it Improve handeling, the Roll and the Sway?
They are bolt-ins a complete kit for $115.00.

Thank's for Your Imput. Your Insight has clarified a lot of Issues

Best Regards, [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

Tom Gallagher [img]graemlins/shield.gif[/img]

[bluewhale13]

Tom,
The manifold had to get put on hold for a little bit. I think I should have a working prototype right around Christmas. I found out last week that the building I lease for my shop is up for sale, plus my lease ends at the end of the month so I've been out looking for new shop space. I found a much better space(bigger etc.) but I still have to move a business and all of the cars. Kinda a real pain since I'm in the middle of a drivetrain restoration on a 40 Buick for a customer.
I think that anytime you can upgrade to a better product it makes since to do so, espeially if the car is a driver. The only real downside to upgrading something is if the car is to be a perfect or correct restored example, but even then in the name of safety if it looks the same,but works better why not? I haven't used a set of uprated torsion bars yet, but for the price I think they would be worth checking into. My bigger rule when it comes to a car is build from the ground up. Worry about the suspesion and the brakes first and if you can always over build everything so no matter what you decide to do enigne wise the car is capable of handling it. [img]graemlins/shield.gif[/img]

[Judd]

Tom
If my car is lowered it's from weak springs LOL . I haven't heard about breakage but was told they needed to be bent for proper alignment on one Buick project?
Judd

testing for "TeamBuick" image!