electric fans...

[ratrod51]

alright,

daily driven straight 8 1951 2 door special. converted to 12V, with the thermostat removed, (i live in florida). i front mounted a 16" electric fan and retained the stock manual fan inside. it will start to overheat if i sit in traffic in the middle of the day.?

dont know what else to do...
oil cooler?
electric fan inside?

i am wondering if the electric fan should be mounted inside? would that make a difference?

thanks

[Bob]

You should not remove the thermostat, it will cause the engine to run hotter.

Your problem will be in the overall efficiency of the cooling system. You can try a good flush, though good ones are not so available anymore.

If the problem continues, it is probably the radiator core is not flowing freely or the block has too much corrosion in the water jacket.

Never leave straight water in an engine, even overnight! Use a rust preventative.

[Tom Gallagher]

[img]graemlins/wavey.gif[/img] Hi, Rat Rod 51

Most Cooling Problems that are not Obvious ( leaks) are cauesd by Blockages in the Radiator. You can try a Flush as Bob previously mentioned. Prestone makes a Flush and they also make a Flush and Fill Kit, for about 5 bucks. Instructions are included, and are really simple. You Inplant a device into your heater hose that attaches to your garden hose, You can then Flush out your cooling system under about 35 lbs psi of pressure, which will loosen up accumulated debris. The Implant fixture is a perminent device whereby you are able to flush out the system at anytime. Always use Fresh Antifreeze. Antifreeze left in a system for over a year wil cause a chemical reaction, built up deposits and eat away the solder that is used in the fabrication of the radiator composition. Always use a Rust Inhibitor/water pump lubricant additive.
If any of these remedies are unsatisfactory. Remove the Radiator and bring it to a Radiator Repair Shop and have it boiled out. It may have to be Recored. Granted, it is an added Expense, but a Radiator for a 51 Buick is hard to find and probably cost prohibitive.
Get Back to US. Let US know how You Make-out
Not only for Our own Satisfaction, but for Future Reference in regard to Problem Solving.
I Hope these ideas HELP! You out, and I wish You the best of luck for a speedy recovery.
[img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] [img]graemlins/beers.gif[/img]

Tom Gallagher [img]graemlins/shield.gif[/img]

[chub chub]

definetly make sure your radiator isn't clogged. if you have access to a temp detecting gun (made by companies like raytek), they can tell you. once the engine is up to temp, turn it off and move the gun around the radiator checking for cold spots. if you don't have the gun you can use your hand, but BE CAREFUL. only touch it long enough to find out how hot or cool it is. i found that about a third of my '52 specials radiator was clogged. it cost me $350 to have it recored in san francisco where everything is expensive. good luck and let us know what happens.

[ratrod51]

thanks for all the feedback. i will try and giv the rad a royal flush, btw as i was removing my thermostat i did notice that the port at the top of the head looked corosive as it goes into the engine. is there any special treatment i can run throught the motor that spacifically removes or better said neutralizes the potential internal rust? thanks again.