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Thread: Buick Lesabre 1963 Staion Wagon

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 1999
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    Dbl Oak,TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alen View Post
    Hi,

    thanks a lot for your helpful hints.

    Ok, then it seems that I have a 401 cui nailhead engine. Horsepower depends on the carburetor (2bbl: 280hp, 4bbl: 325hp). I will check which one I have. Does that mean I can get 45hp more, only by changing the carburetor?

    Concerning the engine number I made a mistake. It’s not 1849046 but 1349046. Sorry for that. Now I can also find the number in your list (8th from the bottom).

    Slowly things are getting more clear ��

    The inscription “wildcat” on the airfilter-housing has no meaning?

    Bye
    Alex
    Alex, were you able to find the engine production code letters on the block? There is some chance yours may be the low compression, regular gas, 2 bbl, code JS engine with 265 HP.
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    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  2. #12
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    Hi Todd,

    thanks for your help.

    If I really have to change the rear bulbs from the inside this will be very interesting. I saw a guy in a short film removing the rear light bezel from inside (3 screws). He taped two "lengthening pieces" (don't know the right expression) from a ratchet together and worked blind. I hope there is an other, easier way. I am waiting for my manual!

    I did not find the motorcode. By now it's about 0 degrees Celsius in our hall and I'm waiting for warmer weather. But your picture will be helpful to find it.

    Regards from cologne
    Alen

  3. #13
    He taped two "lengthening pieces" (don't know the right expression) from a ratchet together and worked blind.


    "extension bar" in the States. the Brits probably have some goofy terminology i don't know about like "lorry" or "bonnet" or what have you.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F...utf-8&oe=utf-8

    if you need to get the socket off axis of the extension bar, you want to use a "wobbly". this allows the socket to pivot up to ~7 degrees:

    https://www.google.com/search?ei=dgZ...30.P3FMd75R3y4
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
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    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
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  4. #14
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    Hello all,

    I have some more questions. Speedometer and front direction signal does not work.

    Does anyone know which actuating mechanism for the direction signal switch I need or maybe a part number? Only the actuator! The switch works.

    Same question (name/number) for the "thing" in the automatic gearbox where the speedometer cable is fixed. Sorry, I don't know the name for it. If you untighten the screw you can take it out of the gearbox. Maybe the plastic gear wheel is broken. Speedometer cable is new, and the speedometer works when I turn the cable on the gearbox side with my fingers. One stupid question: If I remove this "thing" will all automatic oil get out of the gearbox?

    Thanks once again!

    Sorry for my English, hope you understand what I mean :-)

    Regards
    Alen

  5. #15
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    Update:

    Today I managed to remove the "speedo gear/drive pinion" out of the gearbox. Half of the teeth are missing. The gearwheel ist white and has 18 teeth. There ist 18T written on it. Do I have to change the whole unit or can I remove only the gearwheel? Oil is still in the gearbox . Where can I get the parts?

    Regards
    Alen
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alen View Post
    Update:

    Today I managed to remove the "speedo gear/drive pinion" out of the gearbox. Half of the teeth are missing. The gearwheel ist white and has 18 teeth. There ist 18T written on it. Do I have to change the whole unit or can I remove only the gearwheel? Oil is still in the gearbox . Where can I get the parts?

    Regards
    Alen
    Buick sold only the complete assembly as shown in your picture. Part number is 1352589 for the Speedometer Driven Gear. None of these could be found from an Internet search.

    Luckily, the nylon gear is being reproduced. Here is one on eBay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...45844&_sacat=0

    Another source is www.nwtparts.com

    Here is the casing routing from the shop manual. Bends should be as gradual as possible.
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    Last edited by TODD; 02-26-2019 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Add attachment
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alen View Post
    Hello all,

    I have some more questions. Speedometer and front direction signal does not work.

    Does anyone know which actuating mechanism for the direction signal switch I need or maybe a part number? Only the actuator! The switch works.

    Same question (name/number) for the "thing" in the automatic gearbox where the speedometer cable is fixed. Sorry, I don't know the name for it. If you untighten the screw you can take it out of the gearbox. Maybe the plastic gear wheel is broken. Speedometer cable is new, and the speedometer works when I turn the cable on the gearbox side with my fingers. One stupid question: If I remove this "thing" will all automatic oil get out of the gearbox?

    Thanks once again!

    Sorry for my English, hope you understand what I mean :-)

    Regards
    Alen
    Here is the exploded view of the steering column. I am not sure exactly which parts are required without knowing more about the symptoms. The directional signal actuator, item AL, is GM part number 1995843.
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    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  8. #18
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    Thanks Todd,

    very helpful informations and pictures! I will order the nylon gear.
    Meanwhile I managed to "repair" the direction actuator. We will see how long it works, but in the moment it's ok. The movement from the actuator on the rod was to less. Therefore the switch didn't went in the end position and the right signal worked only in the rear. Fortunately by now I don't have to buy the actuator.

    Regards
    Alen

  9. #19
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    Hello all,

    at least I managed to find the engine code. It's an JR engine with an Carter four barrel (AFB) carburetor.

    Regards
    Alen

  10. #20
    That relates to a '63/401 cubic inch engine with the 4 bbl. carb. Rated at 325 HP @ 4400 rpm's & 445 t. lbs. of torque at 2800RPM's. Advertised compression ratio is 10.25-1. In reality closer to 9.75-1 or slightly less.

    Tom T.
    Tom Telesco
    Classic and Muscle Automotive
    12 Cook St.
    Norwalk, CT 06853-1601
    Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET
    NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66
    Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads
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    "If I can't get it, you don't need it!"

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