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Thread: 1953 263 One headbolt is stuck

  1. #1
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    1953 263 One headbolt is stuck

    After doing a compression check on a 1953 263 engine I bought, (Compression was good - 100 to 125 pounds), I want to pull the head to be sure there is nothing bad going on inside, like pinhole coolant leaks, etc. I've pulled a lot of heads off various engines over the years and never found a headbolt I couldn't budge.....until now! All bolts came loose with a nudge from a breaker bar except one. It's the bolt in the center of the head on the manifold side. I have a good quality air impact wrench, and 6 point impact sockets, and that, with 125 pounds of air would not break it loose either - I tried jogging it in both directions and it will not budge. I also tried hitting the breaker bar with a heavy hammer.

    If I put a big piece of iron pipe on the handle of the breaker bar, will I risk twisting the headbolt into two pieces?

    Has anyone else had this problem? I need suggestions on ways to get it loose. My only torch is a propane torch, but heating the side of the block with a hotter torch to break it loose doesn't sound like a good idea. There is no way to get penetrating oil to the threads.

    Help!
    Dave

  2. #2
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    For better or worse, I would probably push it til it breaks
    Then remove the head look at what is left of the bolt, heat the bolt with an oxy acetylene torch until it is as hot as I could get it, then screw it out. If it is broken off close to flush with the block, weld a nut on it.

  3. #3
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    Today I tried the air-impact wrench many times without it budging - both forward and reverse, as I fixed a couple old outboard motors (another hobby), and, just before calling it a day, THE STUCK BOLT STARTED TO TURN! Yippee! I added some penetrating oil to the shaft after it came up a couple of turns and got it out! The shank was rusty, so I'm thinking there may have been a head-gasket coolant leak over to that bolt. I didn't lift the head off yet because I wanted to end the day on a high note and mosquitos were coming out. Hopefully there is no leak corroding any cylinders when I pull the head tomorrow.

    Next after lifting off the head, will be to check bearing clearances.

    Dave

  4. #4
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    My old shop manual says it takes two good men to lift a straight eight head off the engine.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by suntreemcanic View Post
    My old shop manual says it takes two good men to lift a straight eight head off the engine.

    I agree with that statement if the engine is in the car. With the engine setting on my garage floor, I grabbed a stud sticking out near the rear and a bolt I put in up front and, with work gloves on, I lifted it right off with no difficulty. The motor I'm replacing, I pulled the head with it in the car. I could not get a good angle on it to lift it off ("two good men" could have done it), so I used my engine cherry picker.

    On the replacement engine, once off, I was pleased to find no problems with the head, valves, or cylinders. Measuring, I found it has not been re-bored and there is a barely feelable ridge at the top. I was told it had low miles on it, but wasn't able to get a number. That appears to be true. I will pull the pistons out and inspect the rings as long as I've got the head off. I don't have a ridge reamer, but the ridges are so small, I think I can remove them carefully with a hone.
    Dave

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