From the Reference Section:
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Idle Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-barrel Carburetors, Linkage Sticking
- Buick Cam Specifications for 401 and 425 nailheads
- Buick Cams from Kenne Bell, 401, 425
    - Nailhead Engine Specifications
- Head Flow Chart
- Nailhead Oil Pump
- Nailhead cam specs and cam selection
- Nailhead Parts Interchange
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Thread: Hello all!

  1. #11
    has the carb ever been torn down and reconditioned?

    is there any gumming in any of the ports and passages?

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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 1999
    Location
    Dbl Oak,TX
    Posts
    745
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    25
    It would be normal for the exhaust to come out only the left side until engine warms up and the heat riser valve in the right exhaust manifold opens up. Exhaust manifold leak shouldn't be causing idling problem.

    What color is the smoke? White indicates excess water present, blue indicates oil present, black indicates incomplete combustion of fuel (running too rich).

    Something else to check is the PCV valve. If it is clogged up or stuck open, it will affect the idle. Spring-loaded plunger inside valve should rattle when shaken by hand. Another check is to squeeze off the ventilator hose to the valve while idling. Engine speed should drop at least 60 RPM with hose blocked off.

    Another item to look at is the vacuum advance unit on the distributor. Does the slide bar into the distributor move as engine speed increases? It ought to move as well when disconnecting the vacuum hose while idling. Hose is supposed to be disconnected temporarily when setting the timing.

    Attached are are a couple of pages from the '65 Gran Sport shop manual supplement. The #1 plug wire goes in the hole just to the left of the window. Rotor position is shown for timing mark on balancer at 2.5 deg BTDC.

    The supplement also notes the original carb is a Carter AFB model 3921S for automatic trans cars. The original transmission is a Super Turbine 300 2-speed code NK. The 400 engine is stamped on the block with code LR.
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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Bristol, r
    Posts
    9
    Rep Power
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by TODD View Post
    It would be normal for the exhaust to come out only the left side until engine warms up and the heat riser valve in the right exhaust manifold opens up. Exhaust manifold leak shouldn't be causing idling problem.

    What color is the smoke? White indicates excess water present, blue indicates oil present, black indicates incomplete combustion of fuel (running too rich).

    Something else to check is the PCV valve. If it is clogged up or stuck open, it will affect the idle. Spring-loaded plunger inside valve should rattle when shaken by hand. Another check is to squeeze off the ventilator hose to the valve while idling. Engine speed should drop at least 60 RPM with hose blocked off.

    Another item to look at is the vacuum advance unit on the distributor. Does the slide bar into the distributor move as engine speed increases? It ought to move as well when disconnecting the vacuum hose while idling. Hose is supposed to be disconnected temporarily when setting the timing.

    Attached are are a couple of pages from the '65 Gran Sport shop manual supplement. The #1 plug wire goes in the hole just to the left of the window. Rotor position is shown for timing mark on balancer at 2.5 deg BTDC
    The supplement also notes the original carb is a Carter AFB model 3921S for automatic trans cars. The original transmission is a Super Turbine 300 2-speed code NK. The 400 engine is stamped on the block with code LR.
    the car has dual exhaust with no crossover pipe they go straight back on both sides and noticed the driver side pulsating or possibly skipping and will puff "O" rings or smoke rings that i noticed today. Don't know if that is a valve issue on the drivers side and did hear a ticking coming from #4 cylinder with the screwdriver trick very cool by the way

  4. #14
    Won't make any difference, but the transmission and the Rochester almost make it sound like someone may have slipped in a package from a '66. Have you ID'd the engine?
    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/ident_engine.php

    Engine wiring is here: https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...ine_firing.php
    Last edited by Bob; 04-30-2018 at 06:55 AM.


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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Bristol, r
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    9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob View Post
    Won't make any difference, but the transmission and the Rochester almost make it sound like someone may have slipped in a package from a '66. Have you ID'd the engine?
    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/ident_engine.php

    Engine wiring is here: https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...ine_firing.php
    The engine I was told a 65 401 and the letters near thermostat are LR so I believe the intake and carb are not original, should I put a Carter on maybe the Rochester is putting to much gas for the engine??? Or would not make a difference???

  6. #16
    BEFORE throwing $$$ away replacing parts DO COMPRESSION & LEAK DOWN TESTS TO CONFIRM THE HEALTH OF YOUR ENGINE. Then we can go from there.


    Tom T.
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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Bristol, r
    Posts
    9
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by telriv View Post
    BEFORE throwing $$$ away replacing parts DO COMPRESSION & LEAK DOWN TESTS TO CONFIRM THE HEALTH OF YOUR ENGINE. Then we can go from there.


    Tom T.
    I have done a compression test and 155 in each cylinder and how do you do a leak down test can I do that myself?

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