From the Reference Section:
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Idle Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-Barrel Carburetor Adjustment
- Carter Dual 4-barrel Carburetors, Linkage Sticking
- Buick Cam Specifications for 401 and 425 nailheads
- Buick Cams from Kenne Bell, 401, 425
    - Nailhead Engine Specifications
- Head Flow Chart
- Nailhead Oil Pump
- 1963 nailhead cam specs
- Nailhead Parts Interchange
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Thread: Hello all!

  1. #1
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    Hello all!

    I am new here and have recently purchased a 65 Buick Skylark gs. It idles rough, it hasn't run in 12 years. It has a 401 in it and don't think it has the correct carb. It has a rochester quadrajet on it and believe it should have a Carter carb on it? I have timed it to 12 degrees b4 tdc, because it seems to run better, but still the engine runs rough. I believe these engines run real smooth and not sure if something is off with the wires? Or distributer! The previous owner marked the one cylinder in the cap on the left of the window is that correct or is it on the right of the window?
    I know the firing order is different than most and gone over the firing order and set the wires to it with one starting at front passenger side replaced wires points condenser and checked compression and show 155 pounds on all cylinders. Also checked for vacuum leaks and not sure if I am forgetting something....

  2. #2
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    which transmission do you have?

    we don't have the 65 manual, but the 1966 Chassis Manual shows that the 401 for that year would have a 4GC Quadrajet with an automatic transmission and the Carter with a manual.

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...chassis/60.php

    remember that the #1 cylinder on a Nailhead is the front cylinder in the passenger side bank. this is because the passenger bank on the Nail ( and Pontiacs ) is the forward bank.

    order is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...gine_specs.php

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...ine_firing.php


    are any of the exhaust ports not warming up? that would be your dead cylinder. a carb induced problem would probably tend to afflict multiple cylinders where a single cylinder miss is probably ignition or valve.

    you might also be able to isolate a problem cylinder by using a mechanics stethoscope ( or the shade tree version, a long shank screw driver held to your ear ).


    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...oting_carb.php
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
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  3. #3
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    [QUOTE=bob k. mando;107047]which transmission do you have?

    we don't have the 65 manual, but the 1966 Chassis Manual shows that the 401 for that year would have a 4GC Quadrajet with an automatic transmission and the Carter with a manual.

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...chassis/60.php

    remember that the #1 cylinder on a Nailhead is the front cylinder in the passenger side bank. this is because the passenger bank on the Nail ( and Pontiacs ) is the forward bank.

    order is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...gine_specs.php

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...ine_firing.php


    are any of the exhaust ports not warming up? that would be your dead cylinder. a carb induced problem would probably tend to afflict multiple cylinders where a single cylinder miss is probably
    I

    It has a 3 speed auto that does not appear to be original, should be a 2 speed trans

    I have #1 on passenger side front and will confirm the firing order tonight.

    I still need to know where # 1 on the distributer should be on the left of the point window or on the right of the window?

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    <i>It has a 3 speed auto that does not appear to be original, should be a 2 speed trans</i>


    TH-350 or 400? there were some ST-400 switch pitch transmissions ( basically TH-400, but with a Nailhead bell ) available back then.

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...files/74-b.php



    we have the entire 66 chassis manual on site and all of the troubleshooting and configuration procedures should apply to your car.

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/66_chassis/
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob k. mando View Post
    <i>It has a 3 speed auto that does not appear to be original, should be a 2 speed trans</i>


    TH-350 or 400? there were some ST-400 switch pitch transmissions ( basically TH-400, but with a Nailhead bell ) available back then.

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...files/74-b.php



    we have the entire 66 chassis manual on site and all of the troubleshooting and configuration procedures should apply to your car.

    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/66_chassis/
    I think switch pitch th400, has that kick down switch on the carb

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    I have pulled each spark plug wire and rested them on the spark plugs and then started the motor and then removed one at a time and put back on and the engine runs better when all eight wires are on every; ie every cylinder is firing, I am beginning to think the carb is the issue; not sure is it possible that some cylinders are not getting gas or enough gas? I also checked the wire order and seems to be right.

    I don't believe the carb or intake is original nor the trans, there is a metal gasket on the intake the the carb gasket is that correct? Thanks guys a lot of good info on here.

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    a gasket or manifold leak would make the intake charge too lean and would effect multiple cylinders.

    typical means of testing is to spray starter fluid or WD-40 or something around the base of the carb and where the intake attaches to the heads. if the engine rpm speeds up when you spray at a specific point you're making the intake mix richer and allowing the engine to run better. seals around the throttle shafts can also be a problem.

    never hurts to have a fire extinguisher handy if you're spraying starter fluid around the engine compartment or dumping gasoline into the carb, etc.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob k. mando View Post
    a gasket or manifold leak would make the intake charge too lean and would effect multiple cylinders.

    typical means of testing is to spray starter fluid or WD-40 or something around the base of the carb and where the intake attaches to the heads. if the engine rpm speeds up when you spray at a specific point you're making the intake mix richer and allowing the engine to run better. seals around the throttle shafts can also be a problem.

    never hurts to have a fire extinguisher handy if you're spraying starter fluid around the engine compartment or dumping gasoline into the carb, etc.
    so I have tired to screwdriver thing and I do hear a tick coming from 4 cylinder and possible 6 (but faint on 6 maybe left over from 4) and happened to notice the drivers side exhaust was puffing o rings; is that a sign of a valve issue? Could it be an intake valve or exhaust valve??? not sure what is going on......

    I also did spray the the intake and carb down with carb cleaner while running and no change to the engine idle.

    also when revving engine she smooths right out if that helps. Thanks again

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    The Q-jet and manifold were only available on the 66 425 and some 66 Gran Sport Skylarks with the 400 (401). No other Nailheads were ever equipped with them from the factory. So, yours was a transplant. How do your plugs look? Have you replaced them?
    Steve B.



    67 GS 525 Buick Stage IV
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Frankenbuick View Post
    The Q-jet and manifold were only available on the 66 425 and some 66 Gran Sport Skylarks with the 400 (401). No other Nailheads were ever equipped with them from the factory. So, yours was a transplant. How do your plugs look? Have you replaced them?
    i replaced them and the old ones looked dry and had carbon on then and a little back and runs the same with the new ones so far also noticed an exhaust leak at #8 manifold and could that cause the rough idle?? not sure it would.

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