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Thread: steering linkage rubs frame

  1. #1
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    steering linkage rubs frame

    My winter project was a front end rebuild on my 72 skylark 350. I replaced everything that moves including a new quick ratio steering box, except springs and shocks which were fairly new. My problem is the steering linkage rubs on the frame where the lip is in the front. I have included a picture of the old linkage which also rubbed and you can see the shiny spot on the bottom where it rubbed. I have also included a picture with the new one installed, which also rubs, yes I have greased it, yes I have a thermostat and water pump leak (that fix is next). When installing the new linkage and Pitman arm I Had to pull the opposite end of the steering linkage down about an inch or a little more to get the two bolts into the part on the opposite side from the Pitman arm that bolts into the frame (the idler arm I think it's called?). I've included a photo of the old Pitman arm next to the new one and they look to be the same. The stabilizer arm looks to be the same as well as the steering linkage in the middle of the two. The old one rubbed and so does the new one. So....Do I need a different Pitman arm with a different angle in the bend? Do I need a different idler arm? The car has worked with the linkage rubbing for the 6 years I've had it but I would like to correct this. Suggestions please.

    Patricio

    P.S. I had to resize the photos to upload them, hopefully them come through.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Patricio; 03-25-2018 at 05:07 AM. Reason: grammer correction

  2. #2
    I've included a photo of the old Pitman arm next to the new one and they look to be the same.


    actually, they do not. the new one seems to be shorter on both sides than the old one.

    this MAY not be important, as the critical consideration is hole center to hole center. and the most important part of that is that the Pitman and Idler arms have the same distance hole center to hole center. otherwise you'll get a different deflection on the RF than you have on the LF front when you turn the steering wheel.

    think back to your high school geometry. ideally, the front steering arrangement should be part of a parallelogram that can deform. viewed from overhead as if you were in the driver seat, the Pitman arm would be the left side of the parallelogram while the Idler would be the right side. the Pitman and Idler HAVE to be the same length OR you have differing angles between the frame of the car ( the top ) and the steering link ( the base ). this is going to induce different steering angle in the RF with reference to the LF.


    Suggestions please.

    1968-72 is all the same generation of Skylark. we don't have a manual for 72 BUT we do have the chassis manual for 1971. so the first option would be to look at the factory recommendations:
    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/...ssis/index.php

    beyond that, there are a lot of shadetree fixes.

    a - convert to rack and pinion steering! can't rub the steering link if'n you don't have one.

    b - pull the engine and use a gas torch and sledge hammer to adjust the shape of the cross member

    c - get out the welder and box the cross member to get the extra space you need

    d - grind on the steering link til you shave enough off that it doesn't rub any more ( makes the link weaker and easier to deform )
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  3. #3
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    option A !!!

    Bob, thanks for the reply, I like the geometry analogy, it makes sense. I think your observation of the appearance of the Pitman arms being different may be due to the old one which is still attached to the steering linkage being up off the ground on one end while the new one is lying on the ground (optical illusion?), their geometry is the same when I compare them. I was expecting to get a reply about getting a different Pitman arm with a different angle that dropped more to make it so that I wouldn't have to pull down on the Idler arm to attach it to the frame, but I suppose there's nothing like that in any catalogues LOL. I installed the front sway bar yesterday evening as well and the drivers side where it attaches to the top of the linkage is not level like the passenger side, it is canted down toward the back end, (BENT?) I'll see if I can get a picture of it today. I'll probably price out a new sway bar today (Welding and blow torches are like kryptonite to me). I have always thought this car had been in a drivers front wreck at some point, The drivers side lower control arm had an oval bushing on the back while the passenger side had a round one, (replacement drivers side?). I ended up replacing them both with new lowers with ovals. There's also a lot more shims on the drivers side upper control arm then the passenger side, all these things make me think maybe the frame is tweaked? I'll save up for the rack and pinion. Thankful for the suggestions.

    Patricio

  4. #4
    There's also a lot more shims on the drivers side upper control arm then the passenger side



    it is quite possible that the car was never properly straightened after an accident.

    if you know a quality frame and alignment shop you could ask them how much just to take the car in and check it over. they would probably be willing to apply any inspection fee to the price of repair if you decide to have them fix it.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  5. #5
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    sway bar pics

    Bob, I agree. Thanks for the help. Sway bar pics as promised:

    Patricio

    P.S. I think I'll turn the sway bar linkage bolt 180 so the threads are on the bottom.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    I think I'll turn the sway bar linkage bolt 180 so the threads are on the bottom.


    are you in danger of binding on the steering knuckle when the suspension is compressed? current configuration offers more ground clearance ... although i doubt you really need that.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  7. #7
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    clearance

    Bob, The clearance is ok with the vehicle on the ground, but yes the steering knuckle was hitting the top of the bolt on the drivers side prior to the rebuild, which was what prompted the rebuild, the control arm bushings were definitely shot though. I did use a shorter bolt as a replacement, my paranoia? I suppose that could also point to bent/misaligned frame? The service manual stated that the direction of the bolt was optional and I figured if I flipped it around I could always take an angle grinder to the excess threads if need be.

    Patricio

  8. #8
    I figured if I flipped it around I could always take an angle grinder to the excess threads if need be.


    certainly. excess threads aren't doing anything structural.

    you know how to check suspension travel, right? put the car on stands, take the wheels and springs off the car and use a floor jack to put the spindle through it's full range of motion.

    that way you can make sure that it's not binding anywhere.
    The way to crush the bourgeoisie is to grind them between the millstones of taxation and inflation.
    Vladimir Lenin

    Government schooling is about "the perfect organization of the hive."
    H.H. Goddard, Human Efficiency (1920)

  9. #9
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    The pitman arm looks OK to me. Might it be the center link?
    Larry

    1970 GS455 Stage1 Race weight 4025 lbs.
    TSP 470, 602 HP, 589 TQ
    MT headers, Gear Vendors Overdrive
    Best E.T. 11.54 Best MPH, 116.06
    1998 Riviera SC3800

  10. #10
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    Center link

    The old center link rubbed as well? They both appeared to be the same geometry/shape when next to each other? I’ll be having the frame checked at final alignment. In the meantime..... after installing my new quick ratio steering box I find that the steering wheel pulsates wildly as soon as you try to turn it while bleeding the new power steering system with the engine running, the only way to make it stop is shut the car off. I used the stock power steering pump, not the bigger new one that came with the kit and from what I’ve been told the stock pump doesn’t have enough pressure to turn the new box? It is also very hard to turn the steering wheel with the front end up in the air when the car is off. Originally thought it might be a bubble but I’ve bled two quarts of fluid through it and it seems good. If I do need a bigger pump suggestions are welcome please? 455 pump fit a 350? Otherwise I’ll have to fabricate brackets for the “GM 350” pump that came with the kit.

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