Found a pdf that has these charts for the park avenue, years 90-2005.
For 1995
Screenshot_2017-10-18-16-27-26.png
It seems to say I need to cut a light green wire in the driver's door harness. I'm guessing that's inside the door somewhere.
Finally managed to trick the ignition relay with a jumper and install the baker vats bypass module.
https://www.teambuick.com/forums/sho...479#post105479
That ought to take care of it until the ignition relay fails.
The only problem left is that the security light flashes while parked and stays on while driving. I suppose I could probably dig in there and cut the bulb out. But, I was hoping there might be a less permanent way to simply disable the light.
Isn't there some wire I can simply disconnect? Or, maybe the bulb unscrews once I get in there?
I've been searching online. But this https://www.the12volt.com/installbay...etail/351.html
...is about the only info online on this car's security electrical. It says something about a green wire in the door to disable the factory anti-theft system, which must be what's still setting off the security light with the passkey 2 module completely removed.
Could someone please tell me the best way to disable the security light? Thanks.
Found a pdf that has these charts for the park avenue, years 90-2005.
For 1995
Screenshot_2017-10-18-16-27-26.png
It seems to say I need to cut a light green wire in the driver's door harness. I'm guessing that's inside the door somewhere.
So it looks like I don't just cut this light green wire. I need to ground it.
This is for a 98 PA but it sounds, from other sites, like it's the same as the 95.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8442096-need_disable
I need to take the doors apart to replace the side mirrors anyway so I guess I'll try to do it this way. Unless anyone here has a better idea.The factory disarm wire for this vehicle is in the driver's door. It is light green, located at the module above the speaker and you can test it by turning the key in the driver's door. It will switch to ground when unlocking the door with the key.
20171019_182109.jpg20171019_182546.jpgThis is the hole above the speaker and I don't see a module, just a lot of wires and plenty of light green ones. Maybe have to take the speaker out to find this module?
I just realized that we've tried unlocking the driver side door with the key to disarm the alarm.
I reinstalled the horn relay and it hasn't been honking. Maybe it is already disabled with the anti-theft module removed?
Then how do I get the security light to stop coming on?
Think I found what they were talking about. The end running towards the car has a light green wire carrying 11.8v, two ground wires and a light blue wire that is a mystery. But the end running towards the lock connects the light green and black wires when turning the key to unlock. So it's apparently grounding the lt green wire when unlocking.
Would have added pics if it was working today.
Anyway, grounding this light green wire with a jumper does nothing about the security light.
Ok, break it down.
When he driver's door is closed, or even just when "closing" the lock with a screwdriver with the door open... Security light goes off.
But whenever opening the door it flashes continuously. With the car started it stays on, solid.
This happens even with both connectors in the door running to the lock unplugged. So what is telling it's open or closed?
The flashing when the door is open is fine. It goes off when the door is closed. It's that staying on while driving that I really need to fix before I can put it all back together and be done for awhile.
I played around with grounding the other, non hot, wires in the anti-theft module connector where I have the baker bypass hooked up. I found tha grounding either black/white wire makes the security light come on solid.
I tried a jumper between the black/white wires, no luck.
I got desperate and looked at taking the dash apart to cut that light out. But, there doesn't appear to be any way to get in there without taking the entire dash apart.
Please, somebody help me disable this light before break something.
Scoured the web again last night and only ended up back where I began. But, this may be a clue.
From: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...-please-2.html
Not the same as mine, but similar. And mine has a grey wire! Now if grounding that turns it off, I've got it.Installing the bypass circuit:
The wiring diagram of the TDM connector is the following:
--------------------------------------------------
A1 ORN constant hot
A2 PNK hot in run, bulb test, or park
A3 DK BLU fuel enable signal (to pcm)
A4 YEL/BLK starter enable relay control
A5 GRY security indicator enable control
A6
A7
A8
--------------------------------------------------
B1
B2
B3
B4
B5 BLK ground
B6
B7 PPL/WHT ignition pellet return
B8 WHT/BLK ignition pellet feed
--------------------------------------------------
Some other pins could be also connected, but you don't need to care about them.
Blarg! It doesn't have a grey wire. I'm pretty sure the two black/white wires are the passkey resistance.
That leaves a white/black wire and a purple/white wire.
Grounding either does nothing. But, I don't want to try running voltage in there and fry something.
It's a shame that TODD is the only one answering questions around here. But, if you see this TODD, thank you for the page showing this connector, but I need the part that says what each wire does please.
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