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Thread: Best way to repair crease in roof near rear window?

  1. #1
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    Best way to repair crease in roof near rear window?

    20171003_102701.jpg20171003_102813.jpgThis one has me stumped. First, I thought I could pull back the headliner and roll this out. But I see from vids of these cars with the liners out that there's metal reinforcenment "beams" all around the edges, in the way.

    Seems like it would be tricky to grind it down to metal for patching so close to that gasket around the window. Maybe with a dremel.

    But then I'd have to try to patch right up to and a little under that thing.

    Anyone know an easy way to get this done? If not, anyone know the right way to do it? Thanks

  2. #2
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    Go the old way. Drill some holes. Use a slide hammer to pull it out. Weld up the holes and use bobby filler to finish it. To me a curved surface is easier to get perfect.

  3. #3
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    Or, maybe this?
    20171011_165642.jpg20171011_174158.jpg20171012_164011.jpg
    It's a shame it took so many holes. But, it was my first time doing anything more than a hot glue dent repair.

    The purists may cringe. But, this isn't a corvette and I can't spend a grand on a welding kit and take however long it takes to learn how to spot weld thin sheet metal without a backing without burning up the headliner. And Ireally don't want to take that out. So, after a ton of googling, and having it handy, a little jb weld filled the holes.

    Tomorrow I'll slap on a little bondo and primer and be done for now.

    Thanks for telling me I couldn't just pop it out somehow.

    P.S. If anyone else does this, let the jb weld set up for at least an hour, like thick putty, before working it into the holes in all directions.
    Last edited by 95ParkAve; 10-12-2017 at 09:04 PM. Reason: LOL spellcheck changed pop to poo

  4. #4
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    20171013_142424.jpgFirst time using bondo. Must have used too much hardener. It set up in about 3 seconds after applying so feathering the edges was off the menu.
    After sanding, not much was left.
    20171013_152835.jpgIt's not getting really smooth no matter how much I sand. The metal must still be warped. It's better than it was though.

    All I had was brush-on rustoleum metal primer and no thinner so it went on thick.
    20171013_155112.jpgHopefully, after some sanding with 500 grit it'll look alright and keep it from rusting.

  5. #5
    I don't know, maybe a pro will chime in

    I would say you may find you have sanded it too far. That is fine from the problems you encountered from the fast set up, you are probably in a better spot now. Notice in the earlier images the low area was consistent from the start to the finish. When you are done, you will have bondo from the start to the finish and looking at the initial dent, the bondo should probably feather to 8-12" wide before the tin comes to the surface.

    You do not want to sand a fill so far as to see the defined edges of the hole. The bondo should feather out over the good part of the panel, probably a couple of inches. You will want a sanding board for that fix.

    You are better off to have less hardner than more, it will just set up slower. As an amateur, you have more time to wait.

    You could use a spray can of gloss black paint and put a coat on it to see if you can detect the repairs through the paint. That will give you an idea of what you are working to hide.


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