From the Reference Section:
- Auto Refinishing, featuring Brian Martin
- Body Cross Reference,A,B,C...
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Best way to repair crease in roof near rear window?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Santa Fe,N
    Posts
    90
    My Feedback

    (0% Positive Feedback)
    Rep Power
    0

    Best way to repair crease in roof near rear window?

    20171003_102701.jpg20171003_102813.jpgThis one has me stumped. First, I thought I could pull back the headliner and roll this out. But I see from vids of these cars with the liners out that there's metal reinforcenment "beams" all around the edges, in the way.

    Seems like it would be tricky to grind it down to metal for patching so close to that gasket around the window. Maybe with a dremel.

    But then I'd have to try to patch right up to and a little under that thing.

    Anyone know an easy way to get this done? If not, anyone know the right way to do it? Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sisters OR
    Posts
    412
    My Feedback

    (0% Positive Feedback)
    Rep Power
    0
    Go the old way. Drill some holes. Use a slide hammer to pull it out. Weld up the holes and use bobby filler to finish it. To me a curved surface is easier to get perfect.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Santa Fe,N
    Posts
    90
    My Feedback

    (0% Positive Feedback)
    Rep Power
    0
    Or, maybe this?
    20171011_165642.jpg20171011_174158.jpg20171012_164011.jpg
    It's a shame it took so many holes. But, it was my first time doing anything more than a hot glue dent repair.

    The purists may cringe. But, this isn't a corvette and I can't spend a grand on a welding kit and take however long it takes to learn how to spot weld thin sheet metal without a backing without burning up the headliner. And Ireally don't want to take that out. So, after a ton of googling, and having it handy, a little jb weld filled the holes.

    Tomorrow I'll slap on a little bondo and primer and be done for now.

    Thanks for telling me I couldn't just pop it out somehow.

    P.S. If anyone else does this, let the jb weld set up for at least an hour, like thick putty, before working it into the holes in all directions.
    Last edited by 95ParkAve; 10-12-2017 at 09:04 PM. Reason: LOL spellcheck changed pop to poo

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Santa Fe,N
    Posts
    90
    My Feedback

    (0% Positive Feedback)
    Rep Power
    0
    20171013_142424.jpgFirst time using bondo. Must have used too much hardener. It set up in about 3 seconds after applying so feathering the edges was off the menu.
    After sanding, not much was left.
    20171013_152835.jpgIt's not getting really smooth no matter how much I sand. The metal must still be warped. It's better than it was though.

    All I had was brush-on rustoleum metal primer and no thinner so it went on thick.
    20171013_155112.jpgHopefully, after some sanding with 500 grit it'll look alright and keep it from rusting.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    A, B
    Posts
    3,286
    My Feedback

    (0% Positive Feedback)
    Rep Power
    10
    I don't know, maybe a pro will chime in

    I would say you may find you have sanded it too far. That is fine from the problems you encountered from the fast set up, you are probably in a better spot now. Notice in the earlier images the low area was consistent from the start to the finish. When you are done, you will have bondo from the start to the finish and looking at the initial dent, the bondo should probably feather to 8-12" wide before the tin comes to the surface.

    You do not want to sand a fill so far as to see the defined edges of the hole. The bondo should feather out over the good part of the panel, probably a couple of inches. You will want a sanding board for that fix.

    You are better off to have less hardner than more, it will just set up slower. As an amateur, you have more time to wait.

    You could use a spray can of gloss black paint and put a coat on it to see if you can detect the repairs through the paint. That will give you an idea of what you are working to hide.


    WEBNOTE: When inserting an email in a posting, use the "smilie" @ so that web robots don't pick up your address and send you more junk mail!
    Members can be contacted by clicking on their "handle", but you are much better off to post to the thread!



Similar Threads

  1. 1966 Riviera rear ventilation panel - Just below the rear window
    By BluesBrothersBuicks in forum Body and Paint Shop
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-15-2012, 03:40 PM
  2. 1957 Special 4 door rear door window to roof gap
    By djleng in forum Interiors, Trim, Glass and Tops
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-26-2012, 05:02 PM
  3. Rear window...
    By bigblock68 in forum Restoration Talk
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-06-2005, 02:53 PM
  4. lower rear repair panel 65 skylark
    By sleeper-65 in forum Restoration Talk
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-21-2005, 08:13 AM
  5. rear window
    By postalbigdog in forum Restoration Talk
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-06-2001, 07:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •