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Thread: Need to bypass the starter enable/disable relay

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    This image was for a 92 park avenue. I know the 93s have mostly the same parts. Maybe this one does too?
    Attachment 7268
    Looks like removing the instrument panel would be necessary to reach it. Sheesh i hope not.
    Attached drawing is correct for the '95.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    Man, in all my weeks of searching the net and asking questions at forums, nobody ever mentioned there might be a starter disabling relay too.

    This probably explains my no crank situation after replacing the ignition lock cylinder.

    Thankfully, I got this email from Baker Electronix after we ordered their vats bypass module... which we may not need now, but maybe it'll be useful later when vats does croak.



    Does anyone know the location of this relay in the 95 park ave? Thanks
    The starter enable relay was described in the 9/17 121A post.

    Location on of the relay was given in the 9/22 233A post.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    I read that it may be possible to get to it from behind the instrument cluster. I didnt want to break it so it took awhile of gently pulling for it to pop off. Wish I'd known it just plugs in and pops off. And...
    Attachment 7273I nearly freakin wept. Looks like I'd have to remove ALL the dash and air conditioning ducts to get to it!

    I think one of the wires goes to the fuse 1A. Can i get access to the other yellow wire on the other side of that relay from somewhere else?
    See pg. 9D-17 in earlier post.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    Ok so bypassing the starter enable relay wouldn't be the end of it, even if it seemed possible because there's also the fuel pump enable relay to worry about.

    The easiest way seems to be the resistor bypass of passkey. So, I took my makeshift bypass apart, stripped and tinned the wires again and started experimenting with connecting the old key to the wires with a small plastic clamp.

    Looks like my passkey bypass was the problem! Maybe the old contacts had worn out. Now I can get the security light to go off every time.

    It also now makes an audible click at the starter and at least one other click inside when I try to start.

    If the starter was working fine before, what could be the problem now?
    There's no fuel pump enable relay associated with the PASS-Key II system.
    What has been, can be again. (Bob Wills, 1942)

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95ParkAve View Post
    After about the 10th time looking at this wiring diagram, I think I may have figured it out.

    https://www.teambuick.com/forums/att...4&d=1506588142

    There is a yellow and black wire that runs from the starter enable relay control, inside the passkey decoder module, to the starter enable relay.

    In that relay control, it looks like "off" may be ungrounded and "on" grounded. This would explain the comments on that other site about grounding the yellow and black wire.

    In my case the wire seems to come from the passkey decoder module instead of the neutral switch, which in this car is called the transaxle position switch.

    So if I have this right I simply need to:

    1. Cut the yellow/black wire at the passkey module and ground the end going to the starter enable relay.
    a. Make sure this allows cranking.
    2. Cut the dark blue wire at the passkey module and install the 50hz square wave bypass module on the dark blue wire going to the pcm.
    a. Check this enabled the fuel pump
    Hey TODD, thanks for responding to those older posts. But, this one here is where I'm at in this so far. I think I have a complete bypass of the vats module figured out. I just need someone to verify that grounding the yellow/black wire from the vats module will bypass the starter relay. If that's right, then with this vats bypass square wave generator we have I can completely cut the vats module out of the loop.

  6. #16
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    I couldn't wait so I checked the yellow/black wire coming off the vats module for voltage and ohms. Used the ground point on the steering column.

    Key @ off, .1mv and 5 ohms
    Key @ Run, 50mv and 90 ohms

    Seems like it at least doesn't carry power. So I can a wire and grounded it on the steering column.

    Nothing. No difference. Idi did notice that the clicking I hear when I try to start is coming from the area of the pcm. I seem to be hearing some kind of pump coming on too.

  7. #17
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    I guess that was a bad test. That yellow/black wire is the one. Once I realized the green wire in the VATS connector was ground, all I had to do was put a jumper wire between them and it started.

    Then it died of course. So I added the baker bypass module and viola, no more VATS hassles.

    20171016_180625.jpg

    But this was just a test. Now I need a good way to hook this up permanently without having to solder up in there laying upside down and reaching up into a hole.

    Best idea I have is to take the old VATS module out, cut off the connector and see if i can solder to that, then clip the bypass on.

  8. #18
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    20171016_180643.jpgFor anyone else who ever needs to do this... Yellow is the jumper wire. Black goes to ground with the jumper wire. Blue is the signal wire and goes to the dark blue wire on the VATS connector, red goes to the double pink wires which are 12v while the ignition is on, off when it's off.

    Please note that the pic just shows a rigged up proof of concept. Thats not how it should be permanently connected. I'm still looking for advice on that.

  9. #19
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    Oh yeah, and I also need to find out how to disable the security light, e.g. which wire to cut. It wants to be on all the time now, wasting juice. Anyone know what powers it? Seems like it should come from the VATS but it's unplugged. And. The light still works.

  10. #20
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    20171017_100652.jpgThese old computer power source wires' ends seem like the fit right into the connector. I had to cut it apart but I got the right colors out.
    20171017_105752.jpg20171017_105941.jpg20171017_111324.jpg20171017_114042.jpg
    20171017_115542.jpgIt didn't clip in as snug as I'd like so I added a zip tie.

    I wasn't happy with the look of it at first. But, after lots of wiggling and pulling on it, it's surprisingly sturdy. Seems like it'll hold for years of bumpy roads.

    I didn't solder anything. Just twisted, wrapped in tape and then a little heatshrink to keep the tape tight. I hope that's ok. Seems like how remember my Dad doing it in the old days. Don't think he even had heatshrink.

    20171017_125308.jpgNow the wires are long enough to keep the detachable bypass module in the glovebox. Though I really doubt I'll ever park it anywhere that would be necessary.

    The security light is really bugging me now. Anyone know where I can find it's wires?

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